"extras" for a RE 3.5 SR/SF

If a 1996 2wd 4.0 auto were to install a RE 3.5 sr/sf with full packs, what extras would be needed to insure no problems. I found a thread that I may need a "TC drop" (I know I dont have a TC) or something? sye? I have no idea, I just want to plan my funds.

Thanks guys

You dont have a TC? so its 2wd? Dont know what to do about that.

But if you do have a transfercase then you can get away with a transfercase drop as a temperary fix, but a SYE/cv driveshaft should be something to save up for. Also for at least a week spray down all the bolts with some penetrating oil, this will help agaisnt borken bolts.

EDIT: i need to read the post more carefully, so its 2wd. You dont need/cant have a sye, and your rear driveshaft is longer than a 4wd cherokess shaft so you may be alright. As for the "tc drop", it refers to dropping the actually crossmember an inch, so if you need to you can still do that to your 2wd.

You may need to shim the rear axle to correct the u-joint angles. Front and rear u-joints should run with the same angle.

You will probably want to center the front axle by either redrilling the lower trac bar mount or with an adjustable trac bar.

You must align the front end. Go-Jeep's site has easy to follow directions. It's a good thing to learn since even small changes in the front end lift effects the toe-in.

Thanks,

Couple follow up questions:

What crossmember would need to be lowered an inch (for the tc)

How do you shim an axle (or what is an axle shim)

and how would adjusting the trac bar mount (or to have an adjustable trac bar) center the front axel.

Thanks a lot for your responses,

Jesse

The crossmember is the metal plate thing that holds up the transmission... I doubt you need to lower it, but it's not a big deal (other than it takes away some ground clearance) I would reccomend changing the transmission mount if it hasn't been done...

when the rear is lifted up, the relationship of u-joint angles at the front & rear of the driveshaft can change and cause vibrations. A stock style driveshaft likes to run at equal angles... If the engine/trans are pointing slightly down (say 5 degrees) from flat... the rear axle pinion should be set (shimmed) to point a bit less than 5* up. The rear springs clamp to the axle mounts with 4 u-bolts and a plate. A round-headed center bolt holds the leafpacks together and engages a hole in the ax mt. The shims are available in different degrees, and are added between the leafs and the axle mts to correct the misalignment. One needs to clamp the springs together, remove the center bolt, put the shim on the bolt and back through the pack.

The stock track bar is too short for much more than an inch or two of lift. As lift height goes up, the TB's fixed nature pivots/swings the axle housing towards the drivers side. Some have had luck redrilling a new hole (+- 0.75" towards the center) in the axle bracket. An adjustable track bar has a threaded adjustment on one end or the other to center the ax more precisely.

HTH

thanks, so the only thing that I definatly need is an adjustable Trac bar (I take it this would probably be the most reliable option). The other stuff I have to assess after the lift is up.

Correct?

Thanks again, you guys on this site saved me ahelluvalota time and money.

Jesse

um..didn't realize they were like $250. perhaps I will drill the hole first, then go for the trac bar.

There are track bars out there a lot cheaper than 250.
If you want to go 3-3.5 inches you might consider Rusty's as it is cheaper and for the price diff you could go ahead and get his adjustable track bar and still come in for pretty close to the same price.
But then again there are a ton of people running both lifts with the stock track bar. Adjustable TB is not an absolute necessity.
Personally I would run the stock one before redrilling the mount.
That's what I did for 3 years anyway.
Timbo

Timbo said:

There are track bars out there a lot cheaper than 250.
If you want to go 3-3.5 inches you might consider Rusty's as it is cheaper and for the price diff you could go ahead and get his adjustable track bar and still come in for pretty close to the same price.
But then again there are a ton of people running both lifts with the stock track bar. Adjustable TB is not an absolute necessity.
Personally I would run the stock one before redrilling the mount.
That's what I did for 3 years anyway.
Timbo

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This is bad advice. Running with your axle pushed that far out of wack is not good. It does a number on all your steering joints as well as chewing up your tires. You can get a way with a cheaper unit like the R.E. 1600. The H.D. ones are always the better route. But with a small amount of lift, the cheaper ones work just fine. But stay far away from the rusty's unit. Rubicon or Teraflex would be your best bets......... :lecture:

noresttill, you will be fine with just the kit...my jeep started out as a 2000 2wd......4.0 liter auto....i lifted that sucker 3inchs(rustys(coils and packs) and had no vibes..i then threw a 2 in budget boostin on top of the 3in(pucks and shackles) , to be safe i decided on a adjustable (rustys)track bar, and a tc case drop and some 3degree shims would be a good idea and i still have no vibes and everything worked great.. today i still have all that on there and i have converted to 4x4 even with the shortened D-shafts i have only minor vibes at 35 / 45 mph, but these may be due to the lunchbox locker in the rear..

note i only installed the shims after i converted to 4x4....

HTH
maier

Just how far over do you think a 3" lift pushes the axle?
........then again I only ran mine with the 3" lift and stock track bar for 3 years and 47,xxx miles..........and still have the same tires on it.
I don't see how you think this affects the steering components and tires in a detrimental way.
Timbo

Timbo said:

Just how far over do you think a 3" lift pushes the axle?
Timbo

Click to expand...

it aint far after i installed my 3in kit, i just set the jeep down on the tires and shook it a bit then i crawled under and the t-bar hooked right up to stock location....going higher of course required an adjustable TB
Maier

Timbo said:

Just how far over do you think a 3" lift pushes the axle?
........then again I only ran mine with the 3" lift and stock track bar for 3 years and 47,xxx miles..........and still have the same tires on it.
I don't see how you think this affects the steering components and tires in a detrimental way.
Timbo

Click to expand...

At least an inch, do a search, we don't recommend getting a trac bar for our health.......... :laugh3: