Onboard shower finished

[Dingo509]

okay you asked for it. awhile ago i decided that i wanted to try and build an onboard shower for my jeep. Don't ask why, i decided that it would be fun to try. so after investing some cash in a pump and having it set for a while i figuered it may be a good idea to finish it. i had a couple goals in mind;

1. fit the heat exchanger in the space between the inner and out fender
2. plumb it so that no important hoses are in a location that i can't get to quickly
so here's what i did

I started by making the heat exchanger, which is basically a liquid to liquid heat exchanger. I researched alot of designs, some would fit in the space i wanted to use, some whould not. I decided on a tubular design made intirely out of copper, since i decided to start taking pics after i built the heat exchanger i have provided the link to the site that i based by plans on.

http://www.yankeetoys.org/black900rr/shower/Shower.html

Internal mine is exactly the same as this, including dimensions Externally however the changes are the to the coolant connections. i was worried about getting air trapped inside the main tube so i decide to make the outlet as high as possible to help push the air out.

Finished product BTW the black tar looking stuff is rubberized undercoating which i found out gets very sticky about 150*
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_49_full.jpg

I realized that i don't have a picture if the hard line going through the inner fender so i will update this once my camera gets back to me.

the inlet side of the coolant lines
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_57_full.jpg

and the outlet side
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_58_full.jpg

The reason for painting the exchanger was to eliminate or at least slow down the corrosion caused by the dissimiliar metals touching. I ended up wrapping the heat exchanger in pipe insulation.

After testing the heat exchanger it became apparent that i would need some way of regulating the water temperature. so i decided to run 2 outlets something i haven't seen done before. In the later pics you can see the tee fitting and the second "cold" outlet.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_51_full.jpg

this is the heat exchanger mounted to the inner fender. i used 4 footman loops and some hose clamps. then a few zipties to help hold the insulation on. the smaller lighter colored insulation at the top is on the 2 coolant lines.

A few of you may remember that i was asking about what hose to use, as i had heard that the rubber line will leave a rubber taste to the water, since i was not only using this for a shower but to also wash dishes and maybe even make a pot of coffee or cup of noodles or something i tried to keep from using any rubber in the fresh water plumbing. But i had to use a few inches.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_56_full.jpg

Here you can see the exchanger plumbed, the rubber hose is used only to connect to the exchanger, this is because the vinyl hose melts easily and since the exchanger runs at engine temp constantly i couldn't hook the vinyl directly to it. i figure the total lentgh of the exposed rubber hose is less than an inch. so far i have not noticed any rubber flavor even after running the water through the system several times.

Another shot of the plumbed exchanger
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_52_full.jpg

now for the pump and outlets for the pump i used a shurflo unit i will have to get the p/n if anyone wants it. I have a custom 4X4 front winch bumper so it provide the perfect place to put the pump.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_55_full.jpg

For the outlets i used a couple of filling hookups for and RV

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_53_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_54_full.jpg

The square hole is for my side marker light i added from a Honda S2000

as soon as i get my camera back i will post pics of the inlet connection and the jeep in whole.

Go gently on me as this is only my second write up.

Dingo

[Dirk Pitt]

Looks pretty good.

I've seen a few good ones on Pirate before.

What's the inlet to outlet temperature change?

[olivedrabcj7]

looks like a sh!tload of work just to have a hot shower. id just stink up the jeep until i got back home or go find a creek and a bar of soap. pretty cool though.

[Dingo509]

Looks pretty good.

I've seen a few good ones on Pirate before.

What's the inlet to outlet temperature change?

Thanks, im not really sure what the temp difference is yet but as soon as i find out i'll let you know

Dingo

[andyr354]

we need example pics of it being used by a hot chick.

[tdr1213]

Awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product.

[5-90]

This looks like it has potential - the only thing I can see (so far...) that I'd have done differently is that I'd have tried to keep the plumbing connexions hidden under the hood - not only a cleaner look, but less trouble to find if you brush up against a tree or a rock. It shouldn't take much re-engineering to make that idea work - especially if you plan on relocating the battery (like I do...)

Also, if you were worried about galvanic corrosion, you've all but eliminated that with the use of all copper and brass (the zinc in the brass doesn't really care about the copper base, or the copper you used for the tubing and such, and corrosion becomes a non-issue.) Insulating the HX is a good idea, and worth doing in any case.

I also have a small issue with mounting it under the fender - I'm sure you have your reasons, but anything that passes water like that should be subject to easy inspection (I knew there was a reason I never liked the way heater cores are mounted...) and easy replacement if something does, indeed, go awry.

Also, with a little looking you might be able to find 180* U-bends for copper tube, which can greatly simplify making the folded coil setup you used for your heat exchanger.

Just a couple thought - but, overall, damn fine job! Now, about those demo pix - I'm kinda partial to redheads myself...

5-90

[Dingo509]

This looks like it has potential - the only thing I can see (so far...) that I'd have done differently is that I'd have tried to keep the plumbing connexions hidden under the hood - not only a cleaner look, but less trouble to find if you brush up against a tree or a rock. It shouldn't take much re-engineering to make that idea work - especially if you plan on relocating the battery (like I do...)

well i have bushwacker flares on and these connections stick out about half as far as the bushwackers, so if i hit a tree i've done alot of damage anyway. I thought about keeping the connections under the hood but i don't have to open the hood for the onboard air or the jumper cables, so i thought i'd try and do the same thing here.

Also, if you were worried about galvanic corrosion, you've all but eliminated that with the use of all copper and brass (the zinc in the brass doesn't really care about the copper base, or the copper you used for the tubing and such, and corrosion becomes a non-issue.) Insulating the HX is a good idea, and worth doing in any case.

I was more worried about the corrosion between the copper exchanger and the steel from the inner fender, but thanks for reassurimg me that what i did was good.

I also have a small issue with mounting it under the fender - I'm sure you have your reasons, but anything that passes water like that should be subject to easy inspection (I knew there was a reason I never liked the way heater cores are mounted...) and easy replacement if something does, indeed, go awry.

as soon as i get the camera back i will take pics of the completed product. the hose that feed the coolant do no go into the fender, they hook up in the engine bay, that's the reason for the extra plumbing on the coolant inlet and outlet tubes, this way if it ever does fail i can bypass it so i can still get home.

Also, with a little looking you might be able to find 180* U-bends for copper tube, which can greatly simplify making the folded coil setup you used for your heat exchanger.

Just a couple thought - but, overall, damn fine job! Now, about those demo pix - I'm kinda partial to redheads myself...

5-90

Thanks for all the ideas, this was the first one i've built but i've been told by some friends that im going to build somemore for them so i will remember these ideas. I'm not quite sure what the 180* elbows are? do you have a pic maybe?

And im trying to find some girls (the more the merrier) to help "test" the shower

Dingo

[Dingo509]

okay got the camera back and took a few more pics.


The first 2 is the inlet that goes down to the pump.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_60_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_59_full.jpg


This shows how far out from the fender the hot/cold outlets stick out from the fender, remember the bushwacker flares are 6" wide
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_61_full.jpg

Here's the XJ from the side with the flare and everything back on
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/808000-808999/808664_62_full.jpg

Im trying to find something that will give me an accurate reading on the temp difference and i will report back when i find out.

Dingo