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looking at 97 and newer cherokees...

S

scott in NH

NAXJA Forum User
with 60,000 to 100,000 miles. Time to upgrade from the 90 (235,000 runs great!) Any difference between these years or things to watch out for?
 
Scott, I just did the same thing recently; upgraded my 89 for a 96.
There are many differences:
1 H.O. Engine
2 Chrysler electronics vs Renix
3 OBD II diagnostics
4 Non-disconnect front axle
5 Possibility of getting an 8.25" rear differential

There may be more, but that's the main ones. With a 97 up, of course you get the 'newer' front and rear ends. IMO, my 96 is much more refined, and handles and rides better than the 89 I had (they are both Sports). Anytime you can trade up, do it...... :)
 
Yeah, I'm specifically looking for the 97 or later to get the "new" look. My 90 has been great, hoping for the same in a newer one.
I'm also going from a 5 speed and crank windows to the 1st automatic I've ever owned (I'm 45!) and going with as many power accessories as I can find/afford :laugh3:
 
I hear ya Scott. I previously owned strictly manual transmissions, but nowdays buy only automatics. The wife likes them better. :) She also likes the power stuff; windows and locks, so guess what we buy?......

I still like the 2-doors, though, so that's what I look for. This 96 I bought is a 2-dr Sport with all power, so it keeps everyone happy.....
 
- 2000 and 2001: low pinion front axle
- 2000 and 2001: distributorless ignition

Plus some other stuff I'm forgetting. I went distributorless ignition with the knowledge that I would be redoing the front axle so upgrading to a high pinion front axle ($75CDN for the bare tube) was way cheaper than retrofitting the ignition. Not that you really need the ignition but I figured "why not?".

Search, there are many threads on this topic I am certain.
 
Thanks for the info guys, just what I'm looking for (more comments are welcome though). I will use the power window problem to my advantage if the Jeep I want has that problem!
Unlike most of you guys, dirt roads and boat ramps are the "roughest" action my Jeep sees (though you should see some of the "ramps" I use!). But I intend to do the same things I did to my 90, that is a AAL, coil spacers and 235/75's.
Primary reasons for having a Jeep are towing my boat, curently about 1200 lbs, and going skiing in the winter- realtively high speed runs on sometimes snowy roads, so handling and fuel mileage are more important than looks....
Are there any gearing options I should look for/stay away from? Any advantages to the factory tow package?
Having this site available is one of the many reasons I'm getting another XJ Thanks again!
Scott
 
I would recommend getting one with the 242 transfercase. It will provide full time and part time four wheel drive. Got a 99 Limited 2 years ago for my wife, she loves it, has 242 along with all the power options. Used Cherokees are a really good deal now, plenty to find at a reasonable price.
 
I agree, they do seem to be a good deal! One that has caught my eye is a 97 with only 67K on it, they are asking $6500. The only thing is that it is black. The one I have now is black and a change of scenery would be nice (blue, silver or green)!
 
I have a 99 sport 4.0 with just over 100K, im running synthetic, thing runs like a champ. Over the winter (in NY) I took it through a couple (1.5) feet of snow and the thing just marched right through it. I use it mostly as a DD 23.6 on the highway 15-19 city. Highly recomended tows my boat 2300lbs very well, w/the sac. of gas ofcourse 10-12 wherever. GL in your search
 
So would you guys buy a 97 with lets say 64,000 miles or a 99 with 96,000 or a 2000 with 115,000 everything else (condition, price, etc.) being equal?
 
2000 with 115,000

Most likely, those are highway miles. Better for the engine in terms of running cooler (less chance of an overheat) and also it will allow the water vapors in the engine to evaporate better on longer engine runs. Remember, repetitivly starting an engine and driving it for 2-5 miles is worse than driving for 50 miles at once.

Also, try to inspect all the fluids before making a purchase. I almost purchased a 97 with 64k on it in almost mint condition for $10k. However, when I inspected the tranny fluid, it was so dirty that I first thought I was reinspecting the engine oil. Needless to say, I walked away.

Also, try to find out what type/brand of oil the previous owner used. I was lucky enough to purchase my current truck with 120K and it's been on a religious coolant, oil, tranny, diffs, xfer case fluid changes since new. Not a single constant leak on the truck. It's a 98 model and it's always used synthetic for the engine.
 
i would go with the 2000 because i like distributorless ignition and i do also believe that highway miles are better. also the paint and body are bound to last longer, even with all those miles. a car that sits a lot, unless its indoors, will always rust out from crap accumulating in the bottoms of the doors and fenders and alll that fun stuff.

on the subject of loaded late models: has anyone seen a loaded 2000+ 2-door with a sunroof? that's what i want...in yellow :)
 
I would weigh the model year, price, mileage, and condition. All things considered, I like the lower mileage ones, but the overall condition is probably the most important consideration.

on the subject of loaded late models: has anyone seen a loaded 2000+ 2-door with a sunroof? that's what i want...in yellow
Click to expand...
I love those late-model 2-dr Sports, trouble is, I don't think they made many in the later years. I see lots of the pre-97's, but very few 2-dr later models..... :rattle:
 
I recently traded in my '93 for a 2 DR '01 sport
I would recommend getting the newest XJ you can afford and get a warranty
after I had my new Jeep for about a week I started noticing a whine from the rear end
The Dealer replaced my entire 8.25 without a question and it more than covered what I paid for my 3 year warranty (no deductible)
Happy shopping
f2d55921.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hmmm, all good opinions, not easy choices! I rounded the numbers a little and the newer ones are a little more money, but I wanted to see what your feelings are on just miles vs. year. I guess it will just come down to gut feelings after driving/inspecting.
Thanks! More comments still appreciated,
Scott
 
I would stay away from the 96 or 97 only because Jeep was switching things around on those years. Ocasionally you will find parts or assemblies just for those years that won't fit anything else. Also the rear ends where changed to 29 spline Chrys starting in 97 but some of the early versions were still 27 spline (weaker). I have also heard that there were some minor suspension changes for 2000 and 2001 that didn't do it any good but then most of us modify our suspension first thing anyway. Just my .02
 
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