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Spray in insulation for body panels?

HAPYMUDY

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Western New York
I just finished fender trimming on the front end and comtemplating putting the plastic back in to keep all the inerds from getting all salty/crappy this winter. Without the inserts you can look back from the front wheels and see the door hinges and also the door sills, so they'd get pretty well sprayed in a good rain storm.

Lots of different options, including putting the insert back in and trimming, using pool noodles -- but was thinking about some spray-in insulation I've used for the house. It comes in a bottle and when you spray it it expands to many times it's original size and hardens. Of course you'd have to be sure not to spray anything that it may suffocate, anyone have any ideas? Especially for the area between the front wheel and the front doors.

Thanks.
 
I think it's been discussed here before. Some of the foam holds water which would really bad if your concerned with rust.
 
Ah, yeah ... I'd be concerned with rust! :) Great Stuff, I'll do some checking. Pretty important that it provided a very good seal and doesn't hold water.

I'll do some more digging! I guess there's probably a reason why they don't use something like that in the factory. Hmm.
 
The message below is copied directly from the Great Stuff website.


"Differences Between Latex and Polyurethane Foam Sealant
There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF polyurethane foam sealant:

1. Latex foams are typically “open celled” and, as a result, can take on water. In fact the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF is closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer skin when cured.
2. Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air-sealant. "
 
Retaining moisture is only part of the issue. Some places on Jeeps have to be open to allow moisture to escape. And even the good foam, while it may not hold the moisture inside itself, can form a shelf that collects dirt, which retains moisture and rots out my MJ's rear wheel well. One of the biggest mistakes I ever did to my truck. If you're going to use it, give lots and lots of thought to where moisture and dirt will go (and it WILL get into places you'd never think it would) after the foam is blocking the way. Each Jeeper's scenrio is different and you may have problems where someone else did not. Getting rid of the foam after-the-fact is a royal pain in the butt.
Jeep on!
--Pete
 
lazyxj said:
The message below is copied directly from the Great Stuff website.


"Differences Between Latex and Polyurethane Foam Sealant
There are two key differences between latex foam and GREAT STUFF polyurethane foam sealant:

1. Latex foams are typically “open celled” and, as a result, can take on water. In fact the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water also mean that the cured foam can absorb water. This can cause wood rot or deterioration in areas where wet latex foam is next to wood, such as a window frame. In contrast, GREAT STUFF is closed-cell foam. It forms a water-resistant outer skin when cured.
2. Latex foam does not expand. GREAT STUFF expands to thoroughly fill all voids and cavities making it an ideal air-sealant. "

In fact the same properties that allow you to wash latex foam off your hands with water

don't ask how i know this but NOTHING removes Great Stuff from skin (except time and wear) not gasoline (gas actualy makes it worse) not acetone, not wood alcohol, NOTHING...
it sucked having nasty looking hands for about 2 wks,
wear gloves when playing w/ that junk,
i thought i would smooth it out like caulking then clean off my hands later, nah.. not happening :)
 
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