Stupid Brakes *@$%$$!!!!

[ren]

Just redid the ENTIRE brake system, and the stupid thing refuses to show any sign of having brakes. The system has been reverse bled, gravity bled and even me bled (from knuckles, while trying to get some kind of brakes.). For what it is worth, IT is an '88 comanche with the rear axle prop valve removed, XJ combi valve installed, lines, hoses, m/c,booster, and everything else in the system replaced. I REALLY need to get this thing to stop, because I have new job starting on thursday, and nothing else around here is running. Any help would be welcomed. Thank you .

[jerrywagner]

If it was my Jeep, I would manually bleed the brakes starting with the right rear, left rear, right front and then left front, keep the master cylinder full and this should firm the brakes up, if not I would check for an internal Master Cylinder leak, let us know what the outcome is

[langer1]

Just redid the ENTIRE brake system, and the stupid thing refuses to show any sign of having brakes. The system has been reverse bled, gravity bled and even me bled (from knuckles, while trying to get some kind of brakes.). For what it is worth, IT is an '88 comanche with the rear axle prop valve removed, XJ combi valve installed, lines, hoses, m/c,booster, and everything else in the system replaced. I REALLY need to get this thing to stop, because I have new job starting on thursday, and nothing else around here is running. Any help would be welcomed. Thank you .
Did it ever work?

[ren]

I have bled the brakes corner to corner (see above) when I first tried to get the brakes working, and still am argueing with IT. IT is still not working and that gallon of gas in the bed is REALLY starting to tempt me. My wife says that burning IT would be a mistake, but I am getting REALLY tired of no brakes. I guess the good thing is that at least the rear main is not leaking again, yet. That got changed almost three weeks ago, then I decided to try and redo the brakes, since the front rotors were so thin that they were split. This thing is , I guess, just acting like an old JEEP, but it could do have waited until something else was running.

[olivedrabcj7]

well if youre desparate. buy all new brake parts. MC, hoses, calipers, pads, rotors, wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, and hardware. spend a couple hundred on it, then re bleed everything. if its not worth it then torch it. but have a camera handy.

[jeannies_driver]

did you ever bleed out the master cylinder ? i believe they also need to be bled down to get them to work properly even though your still pushing fluid to the other 4 wheel's.

if that doesn't work you could try capping off the front or rear brakes and see if you get a firm pedal, then you will know where to look for your problem.

[langer1]

did you ever bleed out the master cylinder ? i believe they also need to be bled down to get them to work properly even though your still pushing fluid to the other 4 wheel's.

if that doesn't work you could try capping off the front or rear brakes and see if you get a firm pedal, then you will know where to look for your problem.
Sorta sounds like he got in a hurry and did not bench bleed the Master cyclinder.

[ren]

Everything is new, the M/C was bench-bled. If you start the motor,then shut it off, pump the brakes, then bleed, you get fluid out ONE time and ONE time only, but only from the pass. rear cyl.. The other bleeders give you NOTHING. You can pump the brakes as much as you like, and still get NO PEDAL, and NO FLUID. EVERY PART IS A MOPAR REPLACEMENT FROM THE DEALER- AND I MEAN every PART (read the first post, then think about all the parts in the system). I do not mean to sound mad, or a know-it-all, but I have done alot of brake work over the years, and this thing is driving me crazy. Please, folks, I need the input over possible problems, but I am running out of ideas. I have even gone and disconnected the lines at different points, and use air pressure to try and blow out any clogs ( have blown the lines out from both ends) and I have gotten nothing. Please, keep trying to help me figure it out, I am sorry that this is long, but it seems to be one of those things.
Thanks again, Ren

[Dirt]

thier has to be air in the system if you're not getting fluid out of the lines and you've blown through them. since you bled the m/c has it run dry? bleeding brakes can be very frustrating if the m/c goes dry in the middle of the process.

[ren]

Yeah, I have been keeping an eye on the fluid level in the M/C, and have not let it run dry, but, I am thinking of saying "heck with it" and sending it to the shop so some other poor, dumb, illlegetimate child can beat their head against the wall for a while. Mine is really hurting from trying to think too much LOL. Maybe they can figure out what is going on, and not cripple my pocket too badly.

[corbinafly]

Is the secondary push rod in the booster adjusted to the correct length. I had to extend mine out a little when I replaced my booster. If this doesn't apply to your rig then I'm an idiot.

K

[ren]

Good point. I forgot that the pushrod is variable, so I guess I can check that in the morning before I go ahead send IT to the shop. Thanks.

[8Mud]

Take it to the shop and have them power bleed the whole thing. Master cylinders can give you fits. I´ve had them new and have crud in the orifices (have had to disassemble them and clean them out). One new master cylinder I had to completely submerge in a bucket of brake fluid, to get it to prime the first time. After that, it worked for the next 12 years.
Had one master cylinder (rebuild) that had the pistons and springs stacked in the wrong order.

[csr_011]

Not trying to insult your intellegence here, but did you bleed them properly?

(pass. rear, driver rear, pass. front, driver front is the correct order)

1. Fill the reservoir full, put cap back on, latch down.

2. Have someone push and hold the brake pedal
Then crack the bleed out screw to release the air/fluid
Tighten up the screw
Then tell them to release the pedal
That is one cycle.

Do this until no air, clean flow of fluid without the farting sound comes. I do this until the fluid runs strong without any bubbles/farts, then i do the process 2 more times. Push/hold the brake pedal, crack the valve, tighten the valve, then tell them to release the pedal. I fill the reservoir after each wheel to keep it full, lessens the chance of sucking air.

I just replaced my master cylinder monday. I bench bled the thing like the instructions said, still had to bleed out the system cuz the old cylinder allowed air in before it failed. I did the entire system 3 times per the above instructions.

If you dont have any visible leaks or anything, there has to be air in the system. And with you putting air to it to flush the lines, it will probalby take 10 or more cycles at each corner to get all the air out.

Cory

[olivedrabcj7]

or go down to autozone and look in the HELP! aisle. they have speed bleeders for like 5 bucks a piece. screw them on each caliper and crack them open. pump away while keeping the MC topped off.

[ren]

Well, I figured out what was happening by accident! It turns out that I ended up with a junction/prop block that was not drilled through completely, and just the pilot hole drilled on the rear brake line port. The sad thing is, now I am out $60 for the tow bill and the shop tried to scalp me for alomost $300 for "part and labor". I ended up paying them for the "labor" and then pushed IT out to the curb, got another block as an exchange, tossed it in, and WHAM, BRAKES!!!!. I really should have checked the parts better. Lesson learned. THANK YOU to every-body that replied.

[VegasAnthony]

that friggin sucks
Ive had similar instances where the part was new but defective ..
itw was a alternatro but I ended up replacing everything before I exchanged the alt again and whammo everything worked fine

and as we all know you cant return electrical items once installed

[Dirt]

or go down to autozone and look in the HELP! aisle. they have speed bleeders for like 5 bucks a piece. screw them on each caliper and crack them open. pump away while keeping the MC topped off.

that's cool i didn't know autozone had cool shit like that. i've got the same thing at work only it uses shop air. i never make it past the "ain't skeered" stickers. well one time i did but just one aisle over where they keep the monster truck toys.

:D

[bcguy]

good to hear you got it going.

This thread reminded me of the 4 times I had to bleed my clutch on my Ranger. Kept getting bad mc's.

The first time I called the dealership service guy after 2 of us had been bleeding it for 4 hours straight. The guy laughed and said, "you've only just started."

May you never have to bleed a Ford clutch.

D

[8Mud]

I´ve been reminded again, of one of favorite old sayings, "Just because it´s new, doesn´t mean it´s good".

[yardape]

When I replaced my front differential a buddy of mine who was helping mounted the front calipers on the opposite/wrong sides. Yes they did fit! Doing so flipped the bleeder valves over so that they were just sucking air back into the system rather than draining fluid. I finally ended up driving it gingerly to a mechnic who quickly figured it out. Talk about embarrassing!

[cwlongshot]

I´ve been reminded again, of one of favorite old sayings, "Just because it´s new, doesn´t mean it´s good".


WORDS TO REMEMBER!!!


This would have been my addition to this thread, but you said it better!!

I was stumped a while back with a DW problem. Turned out to be the VERY first thing I changed....and I too changed EVERYTHING in that front end!!! It turned out to be a bad factory new track bar.
I bought this MJ knowing it had a bad DW problem and actually stopped at the parts store for a new track bar, on the way home from the vehicle purchase! To make a long story short, three weeks later, I ordered and installed a Skyjacker track bar/ stabilizer and problem is gone!!! The brandy new, factory TB had a bad axle end bushing!!!

So remember 8mud's quote!!!
Just because you bought a new part, dosen't guaranty its a good part.

CW