what do yall think of my rockrail design

I am planning on building some rockrails and was toying with some designs, and was just wondering what yall had to say.
thanks guys

i have not added all the correct measurements yet, but i am thinking something like that, also how should i bolt these to the frame

Looks like 80% of the rock rail designs out there. I'd change the flat stock that'll go up against the frame to angle iron to help protect the bottom of the frame some. It's been a while since I've been under an xj checking out the rails, but I think it's flat all the way across where you want to put your plate. If you'd like to look somewhat unique (and not have everyone ask how much you paid for your tomken rails) knock the bottom corner off about 1" in either direction and weld a piece of flat stock in to give it some angle down there. Kinda like a mini boatside affect.

don't waste your time with rock rails, boxing your rockers will be faster and easier. I have experience with both and like the boxed rockers way better, they look better and give you better clearance. The design looks good, make sure to tie in to the front and rear spring hangers to stiffen it up. Good luck.

you mean something like this

do you have any pics of the boxing

check out this thread, I helped with both of these sets, and the next set is going on my mj
http://www.reno4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=433&page=1&pp=10
and some pics...

i like the boxing look but i would rather have something that i could change anytime i wanted.

what is the best way to include the rear sping mount in the design, any pics would be nice

also what would be the best way to mount them, im not keen on welding em to the frame, but i guess if i have to i will

Here's my bolt ons. I do like the style where the rocker is cut out and square tube is built in. Especially for the improved clearance. But I wanted a little more door protection and removeability

Notched, bent and beveled edge for welding



Ground welds and assembly shape

Frame mount plate and gussets



Installed crush sleaves and welded in place for 1/2 bolts to go thru

After install

if you want the rocker to be replacable why not weld in a piece of angle and then bolt up a piece of square stock to that that. (with the square stock removed you would have what looks like not rocker) that way you can remove the square stock if you ever bend it. (i i have to rock road rails made out of "hitch steel" and have bashed them plenty hard and never dented them)

hope this makes sense it did to me :laugh3:

87xjco said:

Here's my bolt ons. I do like the style where the rocker is cut out and square tube is built in. Especially for the improved clearance. But I wanted a little more door protection and removeability

Notched, bent and beveled edge for welding

Ground welds and assembly shape

Frame mount plate and gussets

Installed crush sleaves and welded in place for 1/2 bolts to go thru

After install

Click to expand...

I dont see any pinch seam bolts,pretty worthless without that.

I kept it away from the pinch seams on purpose. It's hit some rock pretty hard and they dont move. Supports the weight of the vehicle with very little deflection.

I know you said you weren't keen on welding, but I figured I throw this out there for the heck of it in case it might inspire something. This is what I did on my Comanche:



I used three supports cause I have a foot more wheelbase over XJs, and the middle ones were by far the easiest to do.


Note that the rotation of the side bar allowed for more weld bead as well as welds in two different planes. Allso note that the bar is not welded directly to the frame but has an intermediate plate. And while you're noting things, check out the floor and note why I can't do the "rocker-replacement" style or anything that might bolt to what's left of the pinch seam. :laugh3:


Now note that the bar runs THROUGH the frame and has another plate on the inside. The bar is 1-3/4" DOM tube. The holes through the frame are 2-1/8" which I did so as to allow for maximum flexiblity of movement when situating things for the final welding (which a professional did).


And no, I don't have a lift. He doesn't even have a lift. But when you know someone that does, it doesn't take much to convice yourself that welding at eye level is infinitely better than welding while lying on your back. :laugh3:





I hear a lot of bitching about loss of ground clearance with any design that's not a rocker-replacement, but I wanted protection for the side of my truck too. What protects you from the trees? I plan to add a bit of tubing to the top of the rails in an effort to keep the trees further from the sheetmetal.

dont know about your unibody "frame" but mine is not perfectly flat ..
I would suggest using sections on the frame side.. and as far as boxint he rockers I want a little room between my rails and the body so when I have to high lift it the hi lift doesnt come in contact with the body.. I welded mine to the frame just cause it was easier than drilling through the unibody or jusing Ftype self threading bolts( ivehad em back out lots of time and hollow out the holes other times..
the attaching to the pinch seam is absoultly neccessary in my opinion

one more tip that worked really well for me is to build on the jeep

that is ..place the plates on the unibody..
then put on the cross bars then tack the pinch seam bar
all nice an tight.. then take em down and weld the crap out of them
it seems to me that the tighter the fit against the body and pinch seam the better
the weight distribution when ya get wedged on a rock