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Broken nut into uniframe
- Thread starter marcoleo
- Start date
AZ Jeff
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Gilbert, Arizona
Most persons who encounter this problem and want to fix it correctly cut a hole in the top or bottom of the uniframe and weld in a new nut on the inside wall of the uniframe.
Then they weld a plate over the opening they made in the top or bottom surface of the uniframe.
I prefer making the hole in the top, as the surface for welding is cleaner and smoother than the bottom. This method, of course, requires removing the carpeting and rear seat, and one has to be careful not to cause a fire when welding on the interior.
Then they weld a plate over the opening they made in the top or bottom surface of the uniframe.
I prefer making the hole in the top, as the surface for welding is cleaner and smoother than the bottom. This method, of course, requires removing the carpeting and rear seat, and one has to be careful not to cause a fire when welding on the interior.
Dear Jeff, is exactly what I've done; I've open it from the bottom and rewelded the nut.
My idea is to completely rebuild a reinforced support, with more surface in contact with the frame, with also a reinforcement of the cross-sectional bone down to the back seat.
After removing the carpeting, I've seen the bone and the frame, where the support pushes, very rust and craked, especially the frame
My idea is to completely rebuild a reinforced support, with more surface in contact with the frame, with also a reinforcement of the cross-sectional bone down to the back seat.
After removing the carpeting, I've seen the bone and the frame, where the support pushes, very rust and craked, especially the frame
Starscream
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Columbia, SC
I ran into that same exact problem. I snapped off one bolt on each side of my '96. I actually had to run without shocks for a while until I could fix it.
This is what I did:
I removed my rear sway bar completely and took the end brackets off that tied the top of the spring to the sway bar itself.
Then, I got a metal sleeve to fit in the bushings on the shocks. Cut that sleeve down to fit even with the edges of the bushings.
Then fit the shock into the bracket. After that, you just find a bolt that'll slide through and leave room for a nut.
Then I welded it onto the underside where the shocks used to mount, but first I made sure to fill in the holes left by the nuts that were removed.
This isn't the most detailed post about doing this. Search around and I'm sure you can find a write-up on this topic.
HTH,
David
This is what I did:
I removed my rear sway bar completely and took the end brackets off that tied the top of the spring to the sway bar itself.
Then, I got a metal sleeve to fit in the bushings on the shocks. Cut that sleeve down to fit even with the edges of the bushings.
Then fit the shock into the bracket. After that, you just find a bolt that'll slide through and leave room for a nut.
Then I welded it onto the underside where the shocks used to mount, but first I made sure to fill in the holes left by the nuts that were removed.
This isn't the most detailed post about doing this. Search around and I'm sure you can find a write-up on this topic.
HTH,
David
siminsez01
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boston, Massachusetts
Starscream918 said:
he's not talking about breaking the shock bolts, he's talking about breaking the nut for the spring bolts
Thx David, as Siminsez told, unfortunatelly arent the nuts of the shocks, easy to repair...
It's the front nut of the rear spring support, not so easy to fix in a proper way!
P.S. the rear sway bar was the first thing throwed away from my Che, and used the bracket to extend the lenght of the rear shocks, in your way, lol.
It's the front nut of the rear spring support, not so easy to fix in a proper way!
P.S. the rear sway bar was the first thing throwed away from my Che, and used the bracket to extend the lenght of the rear shocks, in your way, lol.
Last edited:
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