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PS box removal-quick questions

J

Jeepkid8037

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Moraga
According to my shop manual i have to raise the vehicle and support it by jack stands so the front suspension is fully drooped. Why do i have to? Or can i just let it sit on level ground?


-Will
 
No need - I've done full steering overhauls with all four paws on the ground.

You WILL need to get a Pitman arm puller (C-and-screw type - don't use the pickle fork,) and pulling the steering column shaft gets a little tedious. Pull the steering column shaft off LAST and put it on FIRST, or you'll be swearing a lot.

The steering column shaft has a "D" shape, so it should only go on one way. The Pitman shaft has a "doubled" or oversize "master" spline - so it should only go on one way also. Take your time.

You'll thank yourself later if you coat both splined sections on the box with some never-seez - it makes the job much easier, if you have to change anything else...

5-90
 
Alright. Now i have loosened the pivot bolt, adj screw and adjustment bolt but the belt still has tension on it? What am i missing....

This is for removal of the pump....
 
93 cherokee 4.0 w/ aw4. I dont think it has an auto tensioner, my old truck had one and this doesnt appear to have it. I put everything back together and im going to start on it tommarrow morning and try to have it done by saturday. any ideas?
 
Jeepkid8037 said:
93 cherokee 4.0 w/ aw4. I dont think it has an auto tensioner, my old truck had one and this doesnt appear to have it. I put everything back together and im going to start on it tommarrow morning and try to have it done by saturday. any ideas?
Click to expand...
I guess it wouldn't hurt if you said just what you want to do.
 
OK - per my 1991 FSM (the 1992 is in bits - I need to get it rebound...) it looks like you've got the pivot bolt and the adjustment bolt up front, two pump-to-bracket bolts down back, and the adjustment bolt. Sounds kinda like my RENIX after all!

All the bolts you have to loosen to adjust/change the belt need to come out - so that looks like four bolts that thread into the pump proper, and maybe the adjustment bolt (which I usually remove so I can put a new coat of Never-Seez on it anyhow.) Once you get all four bolts out, the pump should "tip forward" out of the bracket and let you remove it. I had to change my PS pump last night, in fact - took me about an hour all up. That included removing the airbox (gave me a little room,) and changing the pressed-on pully over - without power tools.

Check your pully hub - if there's a flange there, you'll need a power steering pully puller. Usually $20-30, you drive the thing with a wrench, and you can (carefully!) clamp the pully in a vise to keep it from spinning. The new pump probably has a bolt, nut, and washer with it - that's the "install tool."

Lightly grease the pump shaft and/or pully hub before you press it on, and it should go easily.

I've done more of these than I care to think about, and it's usually an easy job on 4WD/RWD vehilcles, or the Caddy FWD with the THM425 transaxle (since it lets the engine go in the right way round, and not sideways.)

5-90
 
5-90 said:
OK - per my 1991 FSM (the 1992 is in bits - I need to get it rebound...) it looks like you've got the pivot bolt and the adjustment bolt up front, two pump-to-bracket bolts down back, and the adjustment bolt. Sounds kinda like my RENIX after all!

All the bolts you have to loosen to adjust/change the belt need to come out - so that looks like four bolts that thread into the pump proper, and maybe the adjustment bolt (which I usually remove so I can put a new coat of Never-Seez on it anyhow.) Once you get all four bolts out, the pump should "tip forward" out of the bracket and let you remove it. I had to change my PS pump last night, in fact - took me about an hour all up. That included removing the airbox (gave me a little room,) and changing the pressed-on pully over - without power tools.

Check your pully hub - if there's a flange there, you'll need a power steering pully puller. Usually $20-30, you drive the thing with a wrench, and you can (carefully!) clamp the pully in a vise to keep it from spinning. The new pump probably has a bolt, nut, and washer with it - that's the "install tool."

Lightly grease the pump shaft and/or pully hub before you press it on, and it should go easily.

I've done more of these than I care to think about, and it's usually an easy job on 4WD/RWD vehilcles, or the Caddy FWD with the THM425 transaxle (since it lets the engine go in the right way round, and not sideways.)

5-90
Click to expand...

Hmm...so i guess i have to remove all the bolts. For some reason i thought if i loosened them i should be able to loosen the belt. Ill give it a shot tommarrow morning. Thanks

-Will
 
If you're removing the belt, you should be able to loosen the four bolts, then loosen the adjuster bolt that goes across the bottom. That bolt is what holds tension on the belt and allows you to adjust it, then tightening the other bolts "fixes" the measurement.

If you're removing the pump itself, then you need to remove four - if not five - bolts. It's going to be easier if you remove the adjuster bolt after you get the other four out.

Watch out for a little metal "knuckle" on the bottom of the pump - that would be the part that rides back and forth and allows for the adjustment of belt tension.

5-90
 
After I loosen everthing and "slack" the bolt on the bottom, I usually have to reach for the persuader (in this case, a 24-oz rubber hammer) to kick it loose. It tends to sit tight until it's encouraged to move.

Don't go and whack it too hard - no point in damaging anything. The objective here is to move the pump, not damage it.

5-90
 
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