need pics of some in cab roll bars...

[utahxjer]

Anybody got any pics of some roll bars, and some tips?

[Jump This]

Look into Tand J performance. @tandjperformance.com/products-bpp-xy-cage.htm

[MaXJohnson]

work in progress (slow progress)

http://home.everestkc.net/alynloya/Jeep_RollBar1.jpg

I don't have a tube bender, but I have a notcher and do my own welding. I take my measurements to a local chassis shop and have them bend up the tube. Then I fit it and weld it up. This is a fairly inexpensive way to build a cage. I'll be doing the front tubes and joining the "B" and "C" hoops next.

You will get differing opinions on this, but I like to bolt-in the floor plates rather than weld them. I think the best setup is to use two layers of 1/8" plate. Weld a small 3"x3" square to the base of each tube and then weld a 4"x4" or larger plate under the first. Bevel the lower edge of the plate with a flat file and radius the corners 1/2" or more to keep the plate from cutting through the floor pan. Then use four 3/8" bolts, one through each corner and sandwich to another 1/8" plate underneath, also beveled and radiused.

So far, I've done all the welding outside my Jeep, but will eventually need to join some tubes as installed. I have a welding blanket to surround the weld area and protect the interior surfaces. I will back this up with some thin sheetmetal to reflect the heat. Obviously, without some protection, you will melt plastic trim, burn up appolstery and warp surrounding sheet metal.

Use tube, not pipe.
Think "TRIANGLE"; triagulate and gusset wherever possible.

[Goatman]

Here's a link to my rollcage pics:

http://fototime.com/inv/1BC14166A317E93

Mine is a combination of interior and exterior cages, working together for a total structure. I would add more to it if it was only an interior cage. Because I have an exterior A pillar hoop, the interior A pillar down bars are welded to the inside of the A pillar, just short of the dash, and don't go all the way to the floor. I welded and riveted a steel strap to the full length of the A pillar, and then welded the tube to that.

I've seen a good number of XJ rollovers, and they hold up pretty well as they are. I figure that it won't take much extra structure from a rollcage to make it hold up very well, and do a good job of protecting the occupants. So, I think we need to build a cage that focuses on adding the most rigidity to the body and chassis. Triangulation adds the most rigidity, and attaching the cage to the body adds considerable triangulation to the total structure. Mine is done so it is attached to the body at the A, B, and C pillars.

Just one way to do it.......

[Rev Den]

Originally posted by Goatman
I've seen a good number of XJ rollovers, and they hold up pretty well as they are. I figure that it won't take much extra structure from a rollcage to make it hold up very well, and do a good job of protecting the occupants.

Just one way to do it....... [/B]


Not to start anything......but this is 180* from what everyone else has been telling me for a month. I am in the proccess of fabbing up a A hoop for mine because of the suggestions those who have rolled them and seen them roll. So, my question is......whats the deal? I had thought that my XJ without a front cage is abouot the same strength as a CJ windshield frame.

Rev (sorry to hijack your thread) Den

[cagedxj]

I also recomend using hoops at the A & B pillars and a hoop at the rear. I have a few more bars now but this is the best pic of mine to date. I have had it on its top and the cage worked great.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p68f3dff0ec686caa68ddda665c192b57/fbd16e3f.jpg


I'll take more and post if you'd like.

[juicexj24]

you got pics of that rear bumper. Looks pretty sweet. Nice cage by the way. Juice

[cagedxj]

Thanks, I'll take some more photos of the cage and maybe sneek in the bumper...

[BUCKYXJ]

CagedXJ, Can you give me some ideas of floor mounting the roll cage like size of plate and where you mounted it and did you incorporate the unibody rails (frame rails). and also can you take some pics of the plate under the XJ that you mount it to.
Thanks
DIG IT!

[cagedxj]

I used .125 cold rolled steel and the pieces were 6x10 in the front with a 90* bend to go up the side of the floor by the rocker area. I also have a tube running from the btm of the floor to another plate on the frame rail. the other plates were odd shaped to fit the floor(approx. 6x6). I mounted the cage to as many supension points as possible.B pillar hoop is positioned directly above the front mount for the rear leaf spring. The rear hoop is mounted above the rear leaf spring mount. Most important thing to consider is the tube spacing in relationship to the interior. You must be able to weld ALL the way arond the fitted tubing. I'll try to get you some pictures of the mounts, I'll have to do some digging this cage is about 2 years old.

[utahxjer]

thanks for everyone's help, I can't wait to get a little protection, (just in case) a rollover ever occured. I have everything torn out of it, I even got rid of the back moldings, and am thinking about putting up some sheet metal over the holes in the back, good idea or not?

[Loose_Nuts_Enterprises]

photo album (http://www.sb-host.com/imagehost/showgallery.php?cat=6015&ppuser=16)

Check out my photo album for cage pics. It's not quite done in the pics, but all I have left to do is paint it and tie it into my rocker guards. I'll get more pics soon.

Dan

[cagedxj]

Here are some more pics of my cage. The shocks that are mounted to the cage should be interted. I have some Bilstein 7100s on order. I am still trying to find you some mounting plate pics.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p9b6d45b85f23760d83c5f04de566eae3/fbcc002a.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pad57652164d172915d808bfca099dd8d/fbcc002e.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p8010ab255f060d88864e182ff269bc03/fbcc0034.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/pb1be4f715d450c684feae70490eb87f7/fbcc0039.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p126157a71680ca588237e335f34728e5/fbcc003b.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid67/p424b9e390859be47ac77d8c12a166d37/fbcc0035.jpg

[yellowXJ35]

How is getting in and out of that white XJ. I've seen some cages where they bent the front bar back with the dash up front which in my opinion would lose a lot of strength. Just curious if you would hack into the dash or do something different.

thanks,
Rob

94 XJ on 35s

[Goatman]

Originally posted by Rev Den
Not to start anything......but this is 180* from what everyone else has been telling me for a month. I am in the proccess of fabbing up a A hoop for mine because of the suggestions those who have rolled them and seen them roll. So, my question is......whats the deal? I had thought that my XJ without a front cage is abouot the same strength as a CJ windshield frame.

Rev (sorry to hijack your thread) Den

Well, I think you've posed a very good question, and I'm surprised no one else has commented yet. To me, the issue is adequate verses ideal, and what the intended goal really is. I think it's very easy for conversations on forums like this to lean towards the ideal, which is more fun and interesting to talk about.

I know people can show pics of caved in roofs, and if you want the perfect cage that will protect you in a hard, 80 mile an hour multiple rollover, you'll need a very well built cage. You'll also need five point harnesses. To me, the truth of the matter is that the XJ does a better than average job of holding together in a roll all by itself. I have seen pics posted of some rolls, I've walked through wrecking yards and seen plenty of rolled XJ's, and my son-in-law rolled his twice at 50+ mph. I've seen amazingly little distortion of the roof structure and pillars in all of the XJ rollovers that I've seen. To me, this means that adding just a B pillar hoop, tied into the shoulder harness bolts, would add a fair amount of saftey. From there, the more that is added, the safer it becomes.......as far as maintaining the integrity of the structure in a rollover is concerned. We have to remember that the real danger is the people inside hitting the inside structure of the vehicle. So, if we're really talking safety, we have to talk about the loacation of the cage bars, how they are padded, and the seats and seat belts/harness that are used.

The other thing that's important to talk about is exactly what type of rollover are we building for. It would take little extra structure to adequately protect in the typical, slow speed trail rollover. It would take more to protect in a violent roll down a steep hill that meant multiple, backwards rolls. Are we talking about a roll in the desert or woods going 40 to 50 mph on the way back from running a trail, or are we talking about a 70 mph roll on the highway.

Then, are we talking about the passengers surviving, or are we talking about the whole rig surviving with minimal damage. Do we want the rig to be able to survive a slow trail roll with little or no damage, or do we want it to survive a violent, downhill roll with little or no damge.

These are questions that we have to answer for ourselves when we're deciding on how elaborate, and strong, to build a rollcage. Those posing concerns or making comments need to allow for what the owners intended purpose of the cage really is.

There is also the concept that if you're going to do something, you might as well do it right.......but right when it comes to modifying vehicles again comes back to what's adequate and what's ideal, and to the goals and budget of the builder.

[Mcstiff]

My roof was strong enough to keep me from getting kill when I rolled. I was going ~30mph and rolled off the road into a snow filled ditch. I think it is designed to work like a F1 chassis and absorb energy from an impact. Because of this I cannot drive that XJ anymore because of the destortion to the whole body (The passanger's side looks like a H2 from being pushed out and the A pillar is quite bent inwards. I wouldent take the chance from a safety standpoint and if you have a full cage you will have less chance of throwing the uni-body out of wack when off road.

[Rev Den]

Originally posted by Goatman
To me, the issue is adequate verses ideal, and what the intended goal really is. I think it's very easy for conversations on forums like this to lean towards the ideal, which is more fun and interesting to talk about.


EXACTLLY!

Rev

[Beezil]

Goat, I took a soft roll in gooey soft mud......the leading edge of my roof and a-pillarscame down to within an inch of my head, in fact, I put a cute little scratch on my head from it....

I think its safe to say that every xj is gonna crunch a little different.

I know you weren't saying "no one needs a cage" cause then you wouldn't have one in your rig! your wording is a little loose and I'm sure that's what's being read.

[Rev Den]

I think what Mr. Goatman is saying is......build the cage to your needs, triangulate, and THINK. I do not read his comments as no one needs a cage, quite the opposite, I read his comments to say the cage you need depends on your usage.

All I know is...I did not think I needed a front hoop....and I now KNOW I do!

The light has come on.

Rev

[cagedxj]

As for getitng in and out, it is not as easy as stock. When you begin to make modifications you always give up something inorder to gain something else. I am 6'3" 230 lbs I have no problem getting in and out. I didnt want to put the extra bends to hug the dash because I felt I needed the extra strength. As Goatman has said build it to fit your use, but do it right.

[yellowXJ35]

Thanks man, thats all I needed to hear. I'm only 5'10" so I should be fine. I've been in several CJs and wranglers and they never bothered me but never been in an XJ with a front cage. Time to start bending!!!

thanks,
Rob

94 XJ on 35s

[Wallyman]

Originally posted by Rev Den
I think what Mr. Goatman is saying is......build the cage to your needs, triangulate, and THINK. I do not read his comments as no one needs a cage, quite the opposite, I read his comments to say the cage you need depends on your usage.

All I know is...I did not think I needed a front hoop....and I now KNOW I do!

The light has come on.

Rev

What did u decide 2 do with that.I am going 2 use the roll bar from Rustys and add 2 it.Just wondering how easy it will b 2 add 2 it

[Goatman]

Originally posted by Beezil
Goat, I took a soft roll in gooey soft mud......the leading edge of my roof and a-pillarscame down to within an inch of my head, in fact, I put a cute little scratch on my head from it....

I think its safe to say that every xj is gonna crunch a little different.

I know you weren't saying "no one needs a cage" cause then you wouldn't have one in your rig! your wording is a little loose and I'm sure that's what's being read.

I didn't want to write an epistle, so I tried to keep my thoughts simple. You're right, I'm not saying that no one needs a cage.....I have one. I just think that most would not say that someone without a cage isn't safe (in an XJ), so any type of cage is going to help out, even Rusty's B pillar hoop. Better to put in something simple, than nothing at all.

[marcusguy]

About floor plates:

Some parts of the jeep's floor aren't completley flat, they have ridges and ripples and stuff. If you install the plate in a section like this, would you guys recommend tighting it down (I'm planning on sandwiching it to the floor with bolts) until it squeezes the floor flat? I would be afraid this would cause problems by bending the floor, like possibly weakening the area because of the bending. Is it better to use some kind of metal plate to put in the valleys as a spacer instead? Thanks

Marcus

[Goatman]

Originally posted by marcusguy
About floor plates:

Some parts of the jeep's floor aren't completley flat, they have ridges and ripples and stuff. If you install the plate in a section like this, would you guys recommend tighting it down (I'm planning on sandwiching it to the floor with bolts) until it squeezes the floor flat? I would be afraid this would cause problems by bending the floor, like possibly weakening the area because of the bending. Is it better to use some kind of metal plate to put in the valleys as a spacer instead? Thanks

Marcus

I didn't worry about it and just sandwiched the plates together. I didn't smash the floor flat, just tightened the bolts until they were tight. I think those ridges will squish a little and then not move anymore as they are compressed betwwen the plates. I doubt you could really compress them flat. Use a fairly large section of plate.