Shaved 60...Too Much?

[skyjackerXJ]

I milled down the bottom of my Dana 60, but now I'm thinking I took too much off. At the thinnest section, it's down to 1/4". I really should have asked and researched a bit more before I got giddy with the Bridgeport.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/235292443/400167771WwMjgM

My concerns are:

Am I going to have a problem with sealing the differential cover (the lowest bolt hole was milled through and I put another one approx. 1/2" next to it, and I milled the cover down a bit more to try to avoid the chance of it getting peeled back)?

How much did I disturb the strength of the housing? Should I be worried about deflection, cracking the housing, or somehow damaging the gears?

I've seen the bottoms of differentials milled and replaced with steel plate. Should I weld on a thin plate for good measure?

I got this axle for $60, so if it’s going to be a liability, I'll start over.

Opinions are appreciated. Thanks.

[CRASH]

You haven't seen shaved till you've seen a OneTonXJ prepped 60.

Even the ring gear get's shaved when he's manning the Bridgeport!

Keep cutting, then weld in a 3/8" to 1/2" plate to cover the hole.

CRASH

[BIGWOODY]

You haven't seen shaved till you've seen a OneTonXJ prepped 60.

Even the ring gear get's shaved when he's manning the Bridgeport!

Keep cutting, then weld in a 3/8" to 1/2" plate to cover the hole.

CRASH
you mean like this??? it's a 14bolt , but you get the idea...ring gear has been turned down also.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/gmanstone/100_0117.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v478/gmanstone/100_0116.jpg

[JeepFreak21]

No way! Keep going :D


http://www.slicky.net/4x4/shaved-2.jpg





http://www.slicky.net/4x4/shaved-1.jpg


Billy

[skyjackerXJ]

Yeah, I seen those kinds of shave jobs before; more than what I'm looking to do, I'm already in over my head with this full-width project. I was just looking to gain a bit more clearance, but is it possible for me to run into some type of problem down the road with only a 1/4" under the ring gear? Would it be okay for me to leave the housing the way it is, and move onto the next project?

Thanks guys.

[JeepFreak21]

Yeah, I seen those kinds of shave jobs before; more than what I'm looking to do, I'm already in over my head with this full-width project. I was just looking to gain a bit more clearance, but is it possible for me to run into some type of problem down the road with only a 1/4" under the ring gear? Would it be okay for me to leave the housing the way it is, and move onto the next project?

Thanks guys.


We're just trying to show you that you can go a lot further. You shouldn't have a problem as long as your diff cover isn't 1/8" thick.
Billy

[BrettM]

I would guess that it would be fine for the stress loads the housing sees, but if you smack it good on a rock you will probably bust it.

[skyjackerXJ]

if you smack it good on a rock you will probably bust it.

What would you suggest I do?
Should I add some type of "skid" on the housing below the ring gear?

Thanks again guys.

[Ramsey]

might it be hard to get a good seal with gasket maker?:dunno:

[4ward]

I wouldn't be worried about deflection, yet. I would be more inclined to believe you're going to crack the bottom of this thing considering how hard we drag over rocks from time to time. Mine essentially look like what jeepfreak21 has posted. I do shave the gears down on a od grinder. Also, I use 5/8 plate with a small portion milled out directly below the ring gear. It's only 3/8 thick at that spot, but it's cold roll not cast. Also, the cover gets seriously beefed around the bottom. Cut out the bottom 2" of your cover and replace that with some 3/16-1/4 for your bolts to hold onto and to keep the rocks from peeling up your cover. Also weld a ring gear gaurd to your cover, this helps in 2 ways (protection for the gear and helps prevent cover peel). I'd throw up some pics, but am currently photo hosting challenged right now. Maybe you should throw up some pics so we can help give you better criticism.

[Lincoln]

Maybe you should throw up some pics so we can help give you better criticism.

For those that have problems with links. :D

http://image55.webshots.com/55/6/77/71/400167771WwMjgM_ph.jpg

[JeepFreak21]

For those that have problems with links. :D

http://image55.webshots.com/55/6/77/71/400167771WwMjgM_ph.jpg

http://www.slicky.net/smilies/redxdance.gif






Rehosted:
http://www.slicky.net/4x4/shaved60.jpg
Billy

[Lincoln]

Rehosted:
Billy

Funny, I can see it fine. Maybe cache?

[JeepFreak21]

Funny, I can see it fine. Maybe cache?

Yeah, after I viewed the link, I could see it in the thread too.
Billy

[BrettM]

What would you suggest I do?
Should I add some type of "skid" on the housing below the ring gear?

Thanks again guys.
I think adding a skid of sorts would be a good idea, BUT, if you're doing that, you might as well chop it farther and do like the whole bottom out of plate.

[skyjackerXJ]

I think adding a skid of sorts would be a good idea, BUT, if you're doing that, you might as well chop it farther and do like the whole bottom out of plate.

Was thinking the same thing...

Boy that's a lot of time at the milling machine; I used a fly cutter, is there anything that will work best with cast?

Thanks

[JeepFreak21]

I think adding a skid of sorts would be a good idea, BUT, if you're doing that, you might as well chop it farther and do like the whole bottom out of plate.

I'd have to agree.
Billy

[bj-666]

i don't mean to hijack but do any of you guys have trouble with distorting the case when you cut the bottom off and weld a new one on any probs with gears not setting up right.

[skyjackerXJ]

i don't mean to hijack but do any of you guys have trouble with distorting the case when you cut the bottom off and weld a new one on any probs with gears not setting up right.


That too was on my list of the next questions to ask. With so much of the original structure of the housing gone, and then the applied heat, is there a chance of warping the casting?

[BrettM]

use TIG if available, and whatever you do, give extensive attention to pre and post heating. I haven't heard of any problems if done this way.

[4ward]

skyjacker, without knowing what tooling you have it's hard to say. Do you have any OTM insert cutters? I prefer those with a grade 5 insert, but in reality you would probably do best with just a roughing endmill. Cast has weird machining characteristics. I would conventional mill rather than climb mill when cutting unless you have that thing unbelievably clamped down.

As far as welding, obviously tig is best. Make sure you use regualar old er70 s6 (or s3) for your filler. I've used 312 stainless with good results also, it's just more expensive. If you're going to stick it, 7018 seems to work the best while still being reasonably priced.

[Goatman]

I stick welded a plate to the bottom of my shaved D44 and used 7018 rod, and so far it's held up well. It's in the front, and has taken a real beating.

It's held up better than some other things that I've welded....... :)

[OT]

Bringing this back to the top.
Anyone have any pics of a turned down ring gear?
How much are you taking off?

[Lincoln]

Bringing this back to the top.
Anyone have any pics of a turned down ring gear?
How much are you taking off?

PM Oneton and report back. He's done it and had it done.

[badron]

Sealing it should not be a problem. Dried spit will hold back 140 weight.
STOP if that what you want.