• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

D30 tool

You could make your own from a hardware store for less than ten bucks. That's $30.00 left for more important thing like :cheers:
 
88flexj said:
You could make your own from a hardware store for less than ten bucks. That's $30.00 left for more important thing like :cheers:
Click to expand...

With S&H it costs $50.
How did you make yours?
I have done the job without special tools and some times the seal tips because I don't have a good way of controlling it as it goes in.
If the seal tips, the metal ring gets distorted and it will prolly leak from the outside part of the seal.
I think that the spool of that tool is as long as it is, to keep it straight and prevent tipping.
Considering the trouble and time it takes for seal replacement, doing it right the first time is worth a lot. I don't enjoy laying on the ground trying to straighten a seal that doesn't want to go in straight.
Besides, Kejtar likes it.
 
Cut conners of 4X4 down to fit into tube. Trim a need. Clean end of 4X4. Spray end of 4X4 with high tack gasket spray. Center axle seal on spayed end of 4X4. CAREFULLY insert 4X4 into tube. Wiggle until you are sure seal is will seated. lightly hit 4X4 just once to set seal. Twist 4X4 to dislocate seal for 4X4. Remove 4X4 and Inspect seal. If OK reinsert 4X4. Pretend 4X4 is Ex-wife and hit with 3 LB hammer repeatedly. Inspect repeat until seal is fully seated or until you feal better.
Mark 4X4 so it don't become firer wood by mistake.
 
Last edited:
falcon556 said:
With S&H it costs $50.
How did you make yours?
I have done the job without special tools and some times the seal tips because I don't have a good way of controlling it as it goes in.
If the seal tips, the metal ring gets distorted and it will prolly leak from the outside part of the seal.
I think that the spool of that tool is as long as it is, to keep it straight and prevent tipping.
Considering the trouble and time it takes for seal replacement, doing it right the first time is worth a lot. I don't enjoy laying on the ground trying to straighten a seal that doesn't want to go in straight.
Besides, Kejtar likes it.
Click to expand...
I borrowed one (or one just like it) from smoeone to do seals in two axles and that thing made the install a breeze!
 
-------------------------------------------------
If the seal tips, the metal ring gets distorted and it will prolly leak from the outside part of the seal.
------------------------------------------------
If it's not distorted to bad. Try putting a LITTLE Form-a-Gasket around the lip. Then install. This save has worked for me and others more then once.
 
badron said:
-------------------------------------------------
If the seal tips, the metal ring gets distorted and it will prolly leak from the outside part of the seal.
------------------------------------------------
If it's not distorted to bad. Try putting a LITTLE Form-a-Gasket around the lip. Then install. This save has worked for me and others more then once.
Click to expand...

I didn't use any RTV in the past and I regret it. I will in the future.
 
Okie Terry said:
Or you could just use a socket that fits the seal and extensions and hammer them into place.
Click to expand...

I used a variation of the socket method. Not having a 1/2" extension long enough to do the trick, I used all threaded rod to pull it in. Doesn't control the seal very well, I don't plan to try it again.
I have two XJs, the 99 had the seals replaced by a pro using the socket and hammer method twice, leaked both times. I'm taking it back this week for a third pair.
If it still leaks, I'll do it myself. In the mean time I have a 96 that had a seal replacement using the all thread rod and socket. The leak is so minor that it hardly wets the lower ball joint. If I have to do the 99, I'll do a production run and do both at the same time plus a U joint change in one of them.
I don't like the "pull the socket" or "hammer the socket" methods.
I'll have to buy a tool. The FSM tool was my first choise but at $100, it is a bit high. The tool mentioned earlier is half that.
 
falcon556 said:
I used a variation of the socket method. Not having a 1/2" extension long enough to do the trick, I used all threaded rod to pull it in. Doesn't control the seal very well, I don't plan to try it again.
I have two XJs, the 99 had the seals replaced by a pro using the socket and hammer method twice, leaked both times. I'm taking it back this week for a third pair.
If it still leaks, I'll do it myself. In the mean time I have a 96 that had a seal replacement using the all thread rod and socket. The leak is so minor that it hardly wets the lower ball joint. If I have to do the 99, I'll do a production run and do both at the same time plus a U joint change in one of them.
I don't like the "pull the socket" or "hammer the socket" methods.
I'll have to buy a tool. The FSM tool was my first choise but at $100, it is a bit high. The tool mentioned earlier is half that.
Click to expand...
Seems to me, someone is not being kind when the are putting the shafts back in.
 
Okie Terry said:
Seems to me, someone is not being kind when the are putting the shafts back in.
Click to expand...

The guy has a good reputation, but he lets his assistants do the work.
They seem to know what they are doing but the results are no good.
 
falcon556 said:
The guy has a good reputation, but he lets his assistants do the work.
They seem to know what they are doing but the results are no good.
Click to expand...
The seal mating surfaces may be bad too.
Little pock marks on the alxe and you're gonna leak every time.
 
Okie Terry said:
The seal mating surfaces may be bad too.
Little pock marks on the alxe and you're gonna leak every time.
Click to expand...

I'll know more after tommorow, I plan to replace them myself and I'll do the ujoints at the same time. I just picked a couple of Spicer 760s for 22.35 a piece.
The dealer wanted about 69 per ujoint.
Thanks to info by Kejtar, I had a friend make a seal installation tool for me.
It will be tested tommorow.
 
red91inWA said:
what part of this makes no sense whatsoever ???
Click to expand...

Basically that those guys are rear end experts, that's their only business, have a good reputation and after changing the seals twice, I'll have to do it.
Even if there is something wrong with my axle, I'd expect the experts to figure it out and tell me.
If you want something done right, gotta do it yourself.
 
Save yourself the headache, and call Mike @ Complete off-road and order his seal installer for the D44. That is the same tool that I have, and I have used it on countless D30's. I know that You could make on for less, but sometimes just being able to take something right out of the box and it works is just priceless... Now Mike will tell you that the installer may not work with the d30 seals, chances are it may not depending on when he built it... You will only have to grind down the edge of the driver on the tool to make it work... Good luck and have the gear shop take and deburr your axle housing before installing set #3 on the 99...

Scott.
 
-------------------------------
Even if there is something wrong with my axle, I'd expect the experts to figure it out and tell me.
----------------------------------
It's not that a good MEC don't miss things form time to time. But a good mec will back his/her work up to the hills and make it right. IF they are willnot make it right at least get your money back. By bitchen bitchen.
 
Clean-RC said:
Save yourself the headache, and call Mike @ Complete off-road and order his seal installer for the D44. That is the same tool that I have, and I have used it on countless D30's.
Scott.
Click to expand...

I did call Mike a few days ago, he told me that the tool would not work on either of my XJs.
A friend took the time and made a tool for me. Tried it today, works like a dream. It was almost fun:)
If you want to see what it looks like, try this.

http://www.members.cox.net/nraok2/d30tool.htm

I included a picture of the wear marks on my axles. These axles had 4 pairs of seals including the one I just installed. The first 3 left their mark. One of them is the original factory, the other two were the marks from the seals the "experts" installed. I looked at the old seals and it was pretty obvious that the were not installed right. They were not straight and not all they way in.
The pair I installed looks nice and straight and the same depth on both sides.
I hope this solves my leak problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
WJ front axle in Xj -89
2 3
Replies
41
Views
9K
75SV1
7
A
High pitch whine coming to a stop
Replies
5
Views
3K
chris420
chris420
W
Replacing & Availability - '92 Manual 5-speed
Replies
14
Views
3K
four_shot
four_shot
B
1990 turn and parking light issue left front and dash
Replies
13
Views
650
RCP Phx
R
Saudade
Speedo Deado
Replies
4
Views
2K
Anak
Anak
Back
Top