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Killing er ah neutralizing Rust

yardape

NAXJA Member #272
Location
Maryland
I was under the Jeep today and started poking my finger into what I thought was mostly surface rust on the floor. Well sadly I found a place where my thumb went right through. I understand that there are products on the market that will change the characteristics of rust and neutralize it. Does anyone have personal experience with a product that they know works. Please don't say Naval Jelly. Been there done that unsuccessfully. TIA
 
Rust-Mort - it's what I used to use when I was doing "paint prep" at a body shop. You should be able to find it anywhere that handles automotive paint.

Problem is, the success of nearly any rust converter is going to depend upon the soundness of the underlying metal. If you can push your finger thru, you're going to be better off cutting it out and patching it than you are if you try to "convert" the rust. It's too far gone, and the core metal is now compromised.

If you do manage to cut and patch, I would suggest cutting at leas an inch larger than the area to be repaired - this (nearly) assures you of having solid metal to weld up to, and will allow you to get away from the rusted area. It is possible for rust to travel under paint, once it gets a foothold...

5-90
 
ospho you can buy it from ACE home depot and such stores it converts rust. it creats a black scale just prime and paint right over it. i restored a 1967 VW chassis AKA rust bucket now it looks great.
 
Auto Zone & Advance Auto sell a rust-eating gel. You wire brush the rusty area, brush off the dust, then brush on this pink gel that attacks the rust destroying it. It's bad for your skin so be careful, wear gloves. It tells you to leave it on for 15 minutes then wash off, but I just left it on.
 
barillms said:
Auto Zone & Advance Auto sell a rust-eating gel. You wire brush the rusty area, brush off the dust, then brush on this pink gel that attacks the rust destroying it. It's bad for your skin so be careful, wear gloves. It tells you to leave it on for 15 minutes then wash off, but I just left it on.
That's Naval Jelly.
 
Mark, You are a 'Tard!
Use Extend. It is made by Permetex.
I use it on all things metal, It looks like spray paint.
It sprays on clear then turns black.
Put it on "new" metal or on stuff that already has thin crust.
 
what they said. Cnverters only really work on surface rust. If its any deeper then all you are doing is shellacing the rusty core.
 
I've used Extend, both the spray and the kind in the bottle, and it will work for about a year, then rust reappears. I can't believe no one has recommended POR15. It's 10X better than anything I've ever used. Have you seen the shiny porcelain-like black stuff on the chassis of show cars? It's Por15. Wears like iron... wear gloves & have some acetone to take it off you if it gets half way dry. Por15 is what I've been looking for for the last 15 years. It'll cost about $30 per quart, but if you're ready to do the job right, buy it.
]regards,
jlex.
 
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