Traction Bar

Last week I had a custom rear traction bar installed on my Jeep and so far I'm very happy with the result. Since then I've tried several hard launches from a dead stop and not once could I induce wheel hop. I used to be able to do it almost without trying and I was worried about breaking a rear driveshaft u-joint or something more expensive. Here's my write-up:

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/traction.html
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If you have a 4" lift could the trac bar be put more in the center of the axel tube for clearance concerns? Or would that defeat the purpose.

You could mount the traction bar nearer the center of the axle but you'll need to mount a custom crossmember at the other end so that you have a solid foundation for the frame end mounting bracket.

I assume your talking about the other end of the axel?

I think I didnt word it properly. I meant the original mointing location, but higher up. About to midway.

The traction bar uses the leverage of the length of the axle mount about the axle tube centre to control the axle wrap. So, no you can't put the mount up at the axle tube and get the same results. You can however move the mount above the axle tube and it will be almost as effective as Dino's setup. If you have a lift this shouldn't be a problem. Also, if you want to keep good axle articulation the closer to the differential you put your traction bar the better as that is the point on your axle that moves the least while the axle articulates during wheeling.

This setup is an OK fix that limits axle wrap but theres still the possibility of it happening. I think this type of bar is flawed in that its relying on the springs as the other side of the triangle to keep the housing from rotating. The springs are not solid and still can deform under extreme torque.

I think the better option in the long run is to make a real ladder bar that attaches to the housing and then attaches to the frame rail with a shackle. The bar attached to the axle acts as an arm preventing any movement of the housing and the shackle at the frame end allows the axle to move through its arc as the suspension cycles. I have absolutly NO wrap with my current setup and no issues with the traction bar binding up under full articulation.


AARON

MrShoeBoy said:

This setup is an OK fix that limits axle wrap but theres still the possibility of it happening. I think this type of bar is flawed in that its relying on the springs as the other side of the triangle to keep the housing from rotating. The springs are not solid and still can deform under extreme torque.

I think the better option in the long run is to make a real ladder bar that attaches to the housing and then attaches to the frame rail with a shackle. The bar attached to the axle acts as an arm preventing any movement of the housing and the shackle at the frame end allows the axle to move through its arc as the suspension cycles. I have absolutly NO wrap with my current setup and no issues with the traction bar binding up under full articulation.

Click to expand...

You're absolutely right about that and I made the same comment in my write-up.

Single bar setups need verticle seperation at the axle end to control wrap. The type that places the single bar above the leaf spring still has the potential to bend springs because the front half of the leaf is placed in compression. When the single bar is placed below the leaf spring it places the leaf in tension and there is basically no chance of bending it, unfortuneately for the offroad XJs, this kills ground clearance.

The ladder bar is a proven method, but it must be mounted very solidly to the housing; they have been known to rip off, sometimes taking pieces of the housing with them. They also frequently suffer from very high anti-squat, but that depends on lift height and frame mounting point.

I am no suspension engineer...but, I've had some major issues with a rear Spring Over on my Samurai. Went through 3 sets of springs, and one rear driveshaft before adding a traction bar. I am familiar with the standard ladder bar arrangement. However, those familiar with Samurai axles know they are THIN and I've seen many of those double mount axle ends rip right off of the axle, taking said axle metal with them. I found this option from SpiderTrax and gave it a try with great success. Now, I can't give you all the details, but it mounted to a cross member up between the frame railsFrame mount , and just below centerline on the axle. axle mount .
It worked very well. I can't give you the geometry behind it, but no more axle wrap, and no problems with articulation. I really couldn't believe it with a hard mount on either end. If you will notice it follows the alignment of the drive shaft closely. The designer is a suspension engineer, and It seemed to work well. This is a concern I have as I'm planning my lift, and am already aware of axle wrap with stock suspension.
HTH.

That's wierd. Not sure why those pics or those links aren't working......hmmm

OK A little off subject, but along the same lines. Why can't you make a trac bar that goes right under the rear driveshaft and has a skid incorporated into it. I assume there is a reason you can't do it sense I have not see anyone with one yet. But It seems like a descent idea. Am I flawed in my thinking?



here is link to a very crude drawing of what I'm talking about.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/ddgdesigns/detail?.dir=/c6c3&.dnm=37d0.jpg&.src=ph