Weekend Shopping List

Guys,
Just one last tread to make sure my Saturday goes well w/o any unnecessary trip to the parts store. Here's the deal: '96 XJ Classic, I-4, AW-4 w/ 133K. My water pump bearing is rattling like crazy so Sat. is the day. Here's my list:
1-Water Pump & Gasket
2-Thermostat & Gasket
3-Radiator
4-Rad. Hoses (Upper & Lower)
5-Heater Hoses(3 total?)
6-Serp. Belt
7-Idler Pulley
8-Rad. cap
9-2 gal Antifreeze
10-2 gal. Distilled h2O
11-Fill n Flush Kit
12-Gasket Sealer(RTV/IndianHead, etc.)
13-Rent a Serp. Belt Tension Tool
14-Gasket Scraper
15-Serp. Belt Wrench
16- Long Prybar
17-Case of Beer

Am I missing anything? Any clips that attach the fans to the new radiator or are do they bolt up? Any thing to make my day easier is apprechiated!! THANKS to all for previous treads on these topics.
PLATZIE

Yeah, why do you need half that stuff?

chaning the water pump, radiator, belt and pulleys? All that is wrong at the same time?

Also, I'm not sure on the XJs, but I don't think you need a belt wrench. They are great on Fords with teh auto-tensioner.... is there an auto tensioner on teh XJs?

Belt tension gauge is all nice and good, but not really needed. If you have one, use it... or buy one, they are like $20. I wouldn't "rent" one. Borrow from a friend or something.

Everything is gonna be disconnected anyway. At 130K, might as well. Nice to know it's all done.

How worried should I be about flushing the block out(w/ the old rad 1st)? JUst garden hose ok. Afterall, it's getting new everything. I'm just afraid of gunking up my new rad w/ gunk if I do a chemical flush.

Just a couple recommendations, from the dealer tstat/gasket, pressure cap, idler pulley, hoses. From NAPA, KrikitII belt tension gauge, $14. With the I4 I'd not bother with a special wrench, you will have more than enough room to get a normal socket in there. Also see no reason for a prybar. Handy item to have will be a baster, probably .99 at the same food mart you get the distilled water from. Baster is one of those tubes with the bulb on the end for basting turkeys and such. Handy to get the rest of the coolant out that will be sitting behind the pump, that area really needs to be dry for the gasket to seal. For a scraper, I used a long razor type and a heavy steel one, a plain old spackle type about 2" wide worked better than both of them. I'd also pick up a torque wrench, water pump and tstat bolts 24ft lbs. Bag O Rags is also handy, get em in white.
Have fun and pick a shady spot....

Gracias Rich. Since I'm going all out, is it good to replace the fan clutch now?(even though it's ok) It may go anytime right? Now is a perfect time or is it easy enough clearance wise to do later?

99 degrees here tomorrow, but covered garage anyway.....

aplatz said:

Gracias Rich. Since I'm going all out, is it good to replace the fan clutch now?(even though it's ok) It may go anytime right? Now is a perfect time or is it easy enough clearance wise to do later?

99 degrees here tomorrow, but covered garage anyway.....

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It can't hurt but the I4 makes maint on the nose sooooo much easier w/o those pesky extra two cylinders pushing the space limit. On my 4.0 I had a fight with the fan shroud and it broke on the bottom, luckly it was inboard of the tab so I cut the other side off, now the fan shroud is shaped like a upside down U but with the two tabs still intact it mounts solid. The bottom piece I broke off was only a solid piece that did some kind of blocking at the bottom. Until it causes problems I'm leaving it alone but I did order a new one 'just in case'...

aplatz said:

Am I missing anything?

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Might be useful to have

And along those lines, Power Blaster or other penetrant spray. WD40 does not cut it. Use a good penetrant. Spray the bolts and stuff you will be needing to remove tonight.

RichP said:

And along those lines, Power Blaster or other penetrant spray. WD40 does not cut it. Use a good penetrant. Spray the bolts and stuff you will be needing to remove tonight.

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Good suggestion.

I also use a very fine grit sand paper as the last step of the surface preparation, then, clean off the surfaces with paint thinner, and finally let dry completely. I apply a *VERY* thin coat copper RTV to the nipples where cooling hoses go, which makes taking them off much easier later on. Use anti-sieze on bolts, and don't forget *NOT* to tighten them too much with anti-seize on them. I you are going to use a torque wrench, reduce the torque numbers by about 20%.

Good luck _ Maz

For a gasket scraper buy a wood chisel...works great on old stuck-on gasket stuff.

Johnny V said:

For a gasket scraper buy a wood chisel...works great on old stuck-on gasket stuff.

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HEY, I never thought of using them. Got a 8 piece craftsman set that hardly ever gets used except when I do doors or inlet bed rail hangers...Think I'll move that pouch from the wood working tool box to the auto tool chest

I just use a 3" pneumatic angle grinder with a 3M pad. Takes a few seconds to clean up whatever. Only around $90 and worth every penny IMO.

I'm a retard and typed I-4, but meant Inline 4.0. Guess I'll need to pick up that special long wrench after all while I find distillled h2O. (WalMArt didn't have any) 15mm for the power steering bolt/ serp belt tension right?

yup, distilled is usually sold in food stores, the two stores I use keep it in the same place as the gallon bottles of springwater...
As for the wrench, if you have your electric fan out which you will you can use a normal socket, that long thing wrench only comes into play when the electric fan is in the way..you'll be taking yours out..just get everything tightened back up before you put the electric back in, it will run fine without it while you are checking for leaks, just unplug it so it does not come on while it's laying on the airbox or fender....that'd be a nasty suprise...