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Axle wrap solution(pic)

Fergie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Flagstaff, AZ
This is what a buddy of mine is running on his Toyota.

What do you think of it for use on an XJ....just curious.

Kicker_shock.jpg


Fergie
 
The shocks is valved stiff enough that it resists the axle when torque is applied, and stops the quick release back to normal.

Fergie
 
I think if I was going to go through the trouble, I'd just make it a solid arm. You can even buy a bolt on kit from JCWhitney for not too much (not that I would buy it, but just as an example), it's a telescoping bar idea for "off road vehicles". There's a hitch pin that you insert to keep it from telescoping when you don't want to allow wrap.
 
xjj33p3r said:
Waste of time. It would dampen the wrap affect, but it would STILL wrap
x2

Haven't tried it and don't need to try it.
I understand rotational forces and how it applies to a sprung over axle.
 
Fergie said:
So you've tried it?
You don't need to try it to know it won't work. Why waste time on shit that won't work anyway. Even if it was a solid bar, it wouldn't help where he installed it anyway. Installing a bar on the lower side of the axle tube is what keeps the axle from wrapping :lecture:
 
Well, I saw it in action this last weekend, and it appeared to work just fine.

He swapped thhose leaf packs out. Those packs are the reason he made the set-up.

Fergie
 
Fergie said:
Well, I saw it in action this last weekend, and it appeared to work just fine.

He swapped thhose leaf packs out. Those packs are the reason he made the set-up.

Fergie
What you needed to see was the same runs without the thing.
 
RCP Phx said:
What you needed to see was the same runs without the thing.
Probably.

I think he is running F-150 rears right now, so they are quite a bit stiffer.

His brother is running the exact same set-up, and doesnt have the anti wrap shock, and has s-shaped leaves.

Fergie
 
Throw in a pair of these with your shocks and you're good to go :laugh3:

IMGP5344_500.jpg


IMGP5349_500.jpg


IMGP5352_500.jpg


More here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335637&page=1&pp=25

Not my set-up, but a friend's. The springs will still wrap, since there is nothing preventing the springs from making the movements that cause them to wrap. The shocks and the just slow the motion down, and the cables just limit how much motion is happening. Either way, the motion is there.
 
Capt. Nemo said:
Throw in a pair of these with your shocks and you're good to go :laugh3:

IMGP5344_500.jpg


IMGP5349_500.jpg


IMGP5352_500.jpg


More here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335637&page=1&pp=25

Not my set-up, but a friend's. The springs will still wrap, since there is nothing preventing the springs from making the movements that cause them to wrap. The shocks and the just slow the motion down, and the cables just limit how much motion is happening. Either way, the motion is there.


How much shipped to 84043.

That S#it rocks... :looser: :D
 
It will work well if the shock is super stiff. It will not detract from flex at all. It will not help much for slow wrap, but it will help the bouncing/hopping kind.

I'll probably put one of those on my front leaf suspension one of these days, it would be real easy to just attach it to my UCA frame mount. I figure I'll find a super stiff one that is designed for a dumptruck or big rig.
 
spider trax anti wrap kit

this is the bomb of antiwrap kit, I used on on a skyjacker equipted yj wpring over..worked sweet. it goes to the pumpkin and a cross member runs next do DS so has no effect on articulation being in the middle of the axle

tractionbar%20081.jpg

tractionbar%20089.jpg
 
Last edited:
xjnation said:
spider trax anti wrap kit

this is the bomb of antiwrap kit, I used on on a skyjacker equipted yj wpring over..worked sweet. it goes to the pumpkin and a cross member runs next do DS so has no effect on articulation being in the middle of the axle

tractionbar%20081.jpg

tractionbar%20089.jpg
having the single link on the lower side of the axle will be much easier on the leafs because it will put the front half in tension rather than compression, but in many cases running a link to the lower side of the axle kills a lot of clearance, especially on something with a cast diff where you can't mount it so close to the driveshaft.
 
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