Low grabbing clutch

Aloha,
I have a problem that hopefully some one will know how to fix. I did a search but couldn't find anything that would help me out.

The clutch in my 92 XJ was starting to get real soft grabbing right off of the floor and getting hard to shift. If I pumped it the pressure would build up and I could drive it for a while. The clutch setup was about 5 years old so I decided to replace it.
I replaced the entire clutch system, master cylinder, hydraulic concentric bearing, pressure plate, clutch disk and pilot bearing and bled the system.
I still have the low grabbing problem. The clutch grabs at a 1/2" off the floor but shifts fine if I put the pedal into the floor. The clutch is a LUK set up.

Is there anyway I can get the pedal to grab further up? Before replacing the clutch it grabbed about 3-4" off the floor.

Any suggestions or ideas would be greatly appreciated!

Mahalo's
upland

I rebled the system and still no change in pedal height. Anybody?

Mine just started doing the same thing, though it's older than yours. Eagle said to make sure I replaced the hose at the same time. You didn't list it, just wondering. Other thing is did you bleed/prime the master before you installed it? Air bubbles are a pain and it really just sounds like you're not getting enough fluid out of the master to fully move the slave.

Here's an interesting thread on bleeding:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32725&highlight=bleeding+clutch+system

Did you resurface the flywheel? Jeep says you shouldn't do it. The reason is that there is no extra margin in the hydraulic system and no adjustments. Historically bleeding the clutch has been a real PIA for a lot of people. It is very hard to get all the air out of the slave. I have an electric vacuum bleeder that has fixed all the units I have worked on. See if you can find a mechanic that has a vacuum bleeder. The hand powered ones don't quite cut it on some rigs.

Another alternative is to replace the MC with a Howes unit with a slightly bigger bore. They run around $50. If you are interested in it, let me know and I will post the pix that show how to easily fab the connecting hardware.

old_man said:

Another alternative is to replace the MC with a Howes unit with a slightly bigger bore. They run around $50. If you are interested in it, let me know and I will post the pix that show how to easily fab the connecting hardware.

Click to expand...

Please?

No I didn't resurface the wheel. I didn't replace the plastic hard line either, the dealer did not have it in stock when I replaced my clutch.
The instructions for the master said not to bench bleed the master. I will try it again. I was going to exchange the master as it's still under warranty.
I do have a hand vacuum bleeder which I used.

Tom if you could post the pic's of the mod I'd appreciate it.

This clutch problem is certainly beginning to become a pain in the a$$!

Griz thanks for the link!

uplandhawaii said:

This clutch problem is certainly beginning to become a pain in the a$$!

Click to expand...

Your welcome, though I'm starting to wonder about replacing mine, since you're having so much fun. :laugh3:

Yeah first time I had a shop do it, they charged $800.00 for everything. This time around I have about $300.00 for all the parts but I'm begining to wonder if I should have paid the extra and have the shop do it again. There must be some kind of voodoo involved to get the clutch bled right!

If you are on Oahu, I can help you out. It doesn't take long to bleed the system.

I just moved back home to the Big Island a few months ago! I was on Oahu for a long time but decided to move back. I used to run with the OahuJeeper's when I was up there. Have you heard of them?

Thanks for the offer, I'm bleeding it again this afternoon.