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forced oiling of motor that has sat long time

rockwerks

NAXJA Forum User
Im finally gonna be cranking up the MJ this weekend (hopefully) it has sat for over 18 months an I am worried about cranking over the motor. I am thinking if I pull the oil filter off and use a pressure tank to inject oil through the return tube, I should be able to lube all parts, crank, cam , bearings etc before I turn it over. any thoughts?
 
You can buy an adapter so that you can manually turn the engine over. It attaches to an electric drill and the oil pump (accessed by pulling the distributor).
 
You can pull the distributor and use an electric drill to turn the oil pump.

Also, we had a heck of a time getting a 383 started up after sitting for several months (through a Missouri winter). The cylinder walls had actually pitted to the point that we couldn't get compression. We squirted some oil in each cylinder which did provide enough seal to get it started, but the loose oil knocked off flakes of carbon that got stuck in a couple of valves. We ended up pulling the heads and lapping the valves. Even then we ended up pulling the pistons and honing the cylinders. It ran another 100,000 after that, but it was a real biotch to get it started after that long a time.

Good luck.

edit: Sorry 'bout that, DennisGrimm. You got in while I was typing.
 
dennisgrimm said:
You can buy an adapter so that you can manually turn the engine over. It attaches to an electric drill and the oil pump (accessed by pulling the distributor).

but by pulling the oil filter and using a bladder tank attached to the center stem , I can force oil through out the entire system for free or am I wrong? The filter is after the pump correct?
 
xjnation said:
but by pulling the oil filter and using a bladder tank attached to the center stem , I can force oil through out the entire system for free or am I wrong? The filter is after the pump correct?

Of course, it's possible that, sitting so long, the oil pump may have lost its prime. In that case you'd be back to your way anyhow. Give it a shot and update us. I'd be interested in knowing how it works.
 
Brian, you're a "rig up sumpin" kind of guy, why not just pull the distributor and rig up something that resembles the end of the distributor that will hook to your drill........I've seen a socket welded to a handle-less screwdriver shaft used for this very thing.......
 
XJEEPER said:
Brian, you're a "rig up sumpin" kind of guy, why not just pull the distributor and rig up something that resembles the end of the distributor that will hook to your drill........I've seen a socket welded to a handle-less screwdriver shaft used for this very thing.......

I could but I already gots teh other stuff ro power bleeding brakes

I do have an extra distributor hanging around, I could gut it and steal the shaft out of the middle and lengthen with 1/4" rod, but hell that sounds like real work!
 
Thumpersdriver said:
Just pour a couple of bottles of Lucas Oil in it and turn the damn key. :laugh3:

Pour some ATF into the cylinder bores about a week before you intend to start it and let it soak in. Change the oil before you first start it, run some engine flush through it, and give it a second oil change. You should be good to go. I've done this on several engines over the years and except for ones that were literally rusted solid never had a problem.
 
5-90 said:
Why rig something up? Go get a SBChevvy oil pump prime rod with a removable collar - pull the collar and it works (that's how I do it...)

If not that, get a middlin' big screwdriver and cut that up instead - it's easier to replace the screwdriver.

5-90

ya mean spend 20.00 I dont have to spend? ouch! the screw driver might work
 
xjnation said:
ya mean spend 20.00 I dont have to spend? ouch! the screw driver might work

$20?!? Hell man, I got mine for SIX!

Who's robbing you? Look around - you don't need the fancy one with the distributor seals, pilot bearing/bushing/whatever and all that rubbish - just the stright rod with the flat end!

I've primed a few 4.0's before, and there's nothing gonna come out that hole at you. Don't spend all the money - you should be able to find a basic SBC priming rod for the same price - or less than - that screwdriver you're probably about to cut. If your local wants that much for a plain steel bar, I think you might want to find a new local...

5-90
 
5-90 said:
$20?!? Hell man, I got mine for SIX!

Who's robbing you? Look around - you don't need the fancy one with the distributor seals, pilot bearing/bushing/whatever and all that rubbish - just the stright rod with the flat end!

I've primed a few 4.0's before, and there's nothing gonna come out that hole at you. Don't spend all the money - you should be able to find a basic SBC priming rod for the same price - or less than - that screwdriver you're probably about to cut. If your local wants that much for a plain steel bar, I think you might want to find a new local...

5-90

good luck remember small town usa...flagstaff AZ napa, checker and autozone, none have any in stock online is my best bet and you are right like 9.00 plus shipping of 10.00 LOL
 
Oh. Remind me to make sure my shop has a parts house when I move to Flag - I hadn't gotten a chance to check out the auto parts situation there...

Flag isn't that small, tho - I grew up in Lafayette, IN (about 25K at the time) and had good prices on everything. ?

5-90
 
you could have had one built and the engine lubed in the time you've spent looking for a workaround......stop e-lubing and get after it!
 
yotaparts said:
AZ may have a primer you can borrow. Store's here usually try to get you to rent one when you buy a long block

they never heard of anything like that here. ya know the types darryl, daryl and their sister daryl

xjeeper I got other fish to fry first, thats why I search a few days beofer I need it. stillworking on rewiring and fabing tranny mounts and new fipk, cross bar or fender support for teh coilover loops etc.
 
How about the good ole fashion "free" way.Pull the plugs,a couple shots of PB Blaster,a quick hand spin,and then crank it over with the starter till you get pressure!
 
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