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Steel beadlock Vs. Aluminum ,which is best??

Elohim1

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Oxford, Ohio
I am ordering some Beadlocks this week and wanted to hear some opinons, concerning steel vs. Alum.

I believe I will be going with the Hutchinson DOT approved rock monster wheels, since they lock the bead on both sides. They are quite pricey and just want to spend $$ wisely.

Thanks
 
i doubt you will get any answers here, try MODIFIED FORUM, NOT OEM, OEM means STOCK!
 
Saw your post, I run the Acer (made by Ultra wheel) steel "simulated bead lock" on all my jeeps. They are DOT legal, steel wheel, they give me the looks, a taller wheel lip so I can air down without worry and they are inexpensive, I have put them thru hell and I would by these in a minute compared to Hutch. Save your money, real bead locks eventualy leak around the seal. :wave:
 
racerdave said:
Saw your post, I run the Acer (made by Ultra wheel) steel "simulated bead lock" on all my jeeps. They are DOT legal, steel wheel, they give me the looks, a taller wheel lip so I can air down without worry and they are inexpensive, I have put them thru hell and I would by these in a minute compared to Hutch. Save your money, real bead locks eventualy leak around the seal. :wave:

what seal? the tire itself is the seal. keep the bolts tightened equally and you will hve no leaks. simulated bead locks? which mall you crawl at?
 
racerdave said:
Saw your post, I run the Acer (made by Ultra wheel) steel "simulated bead lock" on all my jeeps. They are DOT legal, steel wheel, they give me the looks, a taller wheel lip so I can air down without worry and they are inexpensive, I have put them thru hell and I would by these in a minute compared to Hutch. Save your money, real bead locks eventualy leak around the seal. :wave:

No experience on cars/Jeeps but on bikes. Real beadlocks do not leak IF you take proper care of them. Also as far as I know real ones are DOT legal also. Also seems most dudes I've seen running the things don't actually need them.

As far as steel vs alum...depends on a few things. If you're going to be running rocks then steel is stronger. Alum is lighter, less unsprung weight. Way back when I lived in Cali the rock guys ran steel, the sand guys alum.

Sarge
 
I have first hand experience with Hutch, we ran them on the racing Hummer that ran in BAJA, every race wheel leaked! They are over priced and if you just look at the issue from a mechanical standpoint, there is just more to go wrong.(seals) We have changed to 1 pice steel wheels on our Hummers with less brake downs and flats and we air down alot, we are in rocks alot (Sierra Trek). If you have more $ than brains go ahead and buy alum beadlocks, I have bent many wheel lips back in shape on the trail with a steel wheel. So thats what I use and recommend. Trying to be helpful and save you money. as far as what "mall I crawl in".....the same one you were concieved in in the back seat of your mommas Edsel.
www.highmobilityinc.com
www.soditactical.com
hasta
 
For a trail rig I like the Staz works double beadlock, no outer bolts to bash, its a two piece rim, very heavy, almost home built so not always perfect, and a really long lead time for orders:
http://www.stazworks.com/rims.html

newrim1.jpg


Ive seen pics of aluminum rims beadlocked or not failing on the trail, they crack and chunk a huge piece off and your done. Steal rims bend and weigh more but I rather replace a bent rim then a cracked rim.

Have you lost a bead yet?
 
i run the Trailready Beadlocks, steel center, aluminum lock ring. Been on my Jeep for almost 3 yrs, I've drivin on the street around town (although not my DD) and to and from the trails. NEVER had one leak, and i am not very good about checking the bolts either. since i've mounted them i think i checked them twice.

The Trailready is one of the few that has a device to center the tire on the wheel, making it easier to balance, also the lockring is like 1/4" or more thick lots of competition guys run these wheels.

As far as the DOT issue, From what i understand (please someone correct me if im wrong)if the wheel has both a manufacture code and weight rating stamped into the wheel, then it is DOT approved. So if you start with a wheel that was approved and then but the lockring on it, and DO NOT remove the stamped info, it should still be DOT. ive heard the arguement that you cannot have a split rim or 2 pc wheel on the highway, but we have lots of heavy trucks that use the old spindle style center that clamps to the rim. around here and they are still legal so beadlocks should be.

Dingo
 
I would say steel. The tink I don't like about the aluminum wheels is the whole cutting and welding part. Lets say you start out with a nice set of Alcola forged rims, tough as hell, can be bent back, then you take and cut the outer lip off. No prblems yet but now comesthe part I don't like. Welding an new beadlock lip on. All that strength, heat threatment ,ect from the forging is gone and that I know of now one really heatreats the rim after the welding is done. Now you end up witha nice brittle region right at the lip? Very possible place to have the wheel break at, which might be the reason some aluminum wheel chunk? Anyways, may not be a problems but doesn't sound good to me. Need a forged beadlocked rim...then aluminum, otherwise steel. Walkers are nice but they seem to be really heavy so I don't know what the point of them is.
 
ashmanjeepxj said:
For a trail rig I like the Staz works double beadlock, no outer bolts to bash, its a two piece rim, very heavy, almost home built so not always perfect, and a really long lead time for orders:
http://www.stazworks.com/rims.html

newrim1.jpg


Ive seen pics of aluminum rims beadlocked or not failing on the trail, they crack and chunk a huge piece off and your done. Steal rims bend and weigh more but I rather replace a bent rim then a cracked rim.

Have you lost a bead yet?

This would be my first choice too. I wanna see if they get the bugs worked out of the stampted centers.
Billy
 
Ok, how about those giving advice post their actual experince.......as a couple so far have. There is no such thing as which is the best beadlock rim, or which is best, steel or aluminum. It depends on what factors are important to you. I've been running Champion beadlocks on an aluminum rim for about three years, and have no issues with the rims. I wheel a LOT, with plenty of hard rock trails, plenty of (kind of) high speed desert stuff, plenty of long mountain trails, and plenty of street driving. Nearly all of us that wheel the hard trails together out here in the west run aluminum Champion beadlocks. There are plenty of good beadlocks out there, we just happen to run the Champions because he's close to us, they're very good quality, and the price is always right.

Those double beadlock rims can be a good thing, but they can be a real pain in the ass to mount up. The aluminum rims are much lighter than steel, but it is possible at some point in time to break the lip of the bead on the inside. Now, in 10 years of rockcrawling, I've seen an inside lip break on an aluminum wheel twice, and niether time was on a beadlock.....and I've run with a WHOLE bunch of people running aluminum rims. It's possible, just not very likely. The steel rims are cheaper and heavier, and when (not if) they bend you can pound the lip back out.

Nearly all beadlocks center the tire, since there is a lip on the seat of the bead, even the ones that don't advertise that they automatically center the tire. Leaks are rarely an issue, and if there is a leak, it's normally because of some dirt or debris on the bead of the tire....just slightly more sensitive to debris in the bead than a regular rim.

The DOT approval isn't an issue. I crack up everytime I see that brought up. In all that I've ever heard or read on the Internet or in a magazine, no one has ever come up with a specific law or legal case of why a beadlock is not legal on the street......it's always "I've heard". Like Brian said, our beadlock rims say DOT approved on the inside.....so who's to say that they're not DOT approved even if it is somehow an issue. If a couple of the new entires into the market are DOT approved, then it could be safe to say that there is nothing inherently illegal about the other beadlocks that are already on the market. Just not an issue.......

You might re-ask the question "who's running beadlocks, which one's and what do you think of them?" :)
 
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