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Got my new Stroker, Have questions.

NHxj4x4

NHxj4x4

NAXJA Member #1132
Location
Keene NH
So my new Stroker came in today, finally, after a brutal 12 weeks. Anyway...It arrived, and looks great, I just have a few questions that hopefully you guys can answer.

1. WTF is this thing under the crank? It's a weird girdle looking thing. I wouldn't question it, but the rods actually hit it, is it just something used for transporting the engine? Do have to take it off? Pics:

showimg.jpg


If it does need to come off, do I leave these washers on or off? Pics:

showimg.jpg


Here are two pics of the numbers on the block. I assume 1 is the Jeep #, and the other the date, just wanted to verify. Pics:

showimg.jpg

showimg.jpg


That's all I have right now guys, I am sure I will have more questions.

Thanks!

Todd
 
Also, the company that built the engine is telling me to use a 258 Flywheel and Harmonic Balancer, I have never heard this before in all of my reading on Strokers, why would he tell me to do this?

Thanks!

Todd
 
That's a main bearing girdle. It's used on late model 4.0's in a attempt to reduce vibes/engine noise and to tie the 7 main caps together. They are commonly used on high HP/race motors to reduce main cap chatter. That girdle is designed for a 4.0 3.441" stroke crank, so with the 3.875" crank it'll hit. Don't toss it, just shim it away from the crank using washers or some kind of spacers and you'll be all good :)

FUNKYTEE5
 
FUNKYTEE5 said:
That's a main bearing girdle. It's used on late model 4.0's in a attempt to reduce vibes/engine noise and to tie the 7 main caps together. They are commonly used on high HP/race motors to reduce main cap chatter. That girdle is designed for a 4.0 3.441" stroke crank, so with the 3.875" crank it'll hit. Don't toss it, just shim it away from the crank using washers or some kind of spacers and you'll be all good :)

FUNKYTEE5
Click to expand...

Wow, figured the assphat company that built it would have at least made sure they didn't hit. It already has 2 washers in there, I hope 3 won't hurt =)
 
The reason for using the 258 harmonic balancer is that your engine is running a 258 crankshaft.

10-4 on the shims for the main bearing cap girdle. The girdle was designed after the 258 (4.2L) engine was out of production, so it's sized to clear the 4.0L crank throws. You're right ... the dolts who assembled the engine should have shimmed it enough to avoid contact.
 
Eagle said:
The reason for using the 258 harmonic balancer is that your engine is running a 258 crankshaft.
Click to expand...

I've never heard that before. I thought you were supposed to use the 4.0 balancer. I think that's what's on my stroker or maybe I'm crazy.

Eagle said:
You're right ... the dolts who assembled the engine should have shimmed it enough to avoid contact.
Click to expand...

I would think that they would check before shipping. Idiots. By the way make sure you use grade 8 washers.

K
 
Just shim the crank girdle up with another washer so it clears. I did the same thing to my motor when I put it together. I have a 4.6L stroker and knock on wood its been good so far with 5k miles on it :D

The 258 crank has the same dimensions as the 4.0L crank with the execption of the crank throw so using a 4.0L dampener and flywheel/flexplate will not be a problem. The only slight issue you will run into is the crank snout where the dampener goes on may be 1 cm too long. This is easily fixed by adding a spacer. Dino has a very good write up on his stroker and he talks about the spacers for the crank gridle as well as the longer snout on the crank: http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/assembly.html

Good Luck,

AARON
 
258 Vibration damper w/Serpentine Belt, Jeep part #J3237723
Wayne
 
Thanks Guys, I'll shim the girdle. The crank that was used was this:

1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose

I know that it is the correct lenght, so I shouldn't need any mods there. Now back to the balancer and flywheel issue...Should I use what Wayne suggested for the HB? I'm at a loss for the flywheel, I have never heard of this needing to be changed, any thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Todd
 
DO NOT use the 258 junk. Use the stock 4.0 balancer and flywheel.

Sounds like you hired some real rocket scientist to do your engine.....who was it by the way?

CRASH

NHxj4x4 said:
Thanks Guys, I'll shim the girdle. The crank that was used was this:

1987-90...3727...............4 counterweights, 46lb, 54mm nose

I know that it is the correct lenght, so I shouldn't need any mods there. Now back to the balancer and flywheel issue...Should I use what Wayne suggested for the HB? I'm at a loss for the flywheel, I have never heard of this needing to be changed, any thoughts on that?

Thanks!

Todd
Click to expand...
 
It was a company in Maine, I don't wanna go bad mouthing them until I actually know a mistake has been made. Although I should just based on the fact that it took 12 weeks.

Anyway, he never even told me to use them, there was a post-it on my invoice that said to use a 258 HB and FW, I was like WTF? I need to talk with the guy and figure out why he would tell me to use those parts.
 
Your rods hit the girdle and you don't think they fawked up?

You don't think it's totally fawked that they put freaking WASHERS under your headbolts? Those washers look like the ones I used to assemble my porch! The correct way to put that girdle on a stroker crack is to use ARP main bearing studs, torque the caps down with the ARP fastener, then put the girdle on, and use a second nut to hold it in place.

Jeez, you have more patience than me, grasshopper.

CRASH

edit: Looked at the pics again, and it appears that they did use stud of some sort? I think I see two nuts on there. Still, those washers are not a good way to go, even if they are not holding the actual main bearing torque, though it's not as bad as I thought originally.

NHxj4x4 said:
It was a company in Maine, I don't wanna go bad mouthing them until I actually know a mistake has been made. Although I should just based on the fact that it took 12 weeks.

Anyway, he never even told me to use them, there was a post-it on my invoice that said to use a 258 HB and FW, I was like WTF? I need to talk with the guy and figure out why he would tell me to use those parts.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
Yes there are 2 nuts, it looks like the same setup I have seen of other girdles that I found after you guys confirmed that was what it is. When I say they hit, I mean they one rod that is in the downward position looks like it is making contact, I have yet to spin the engine as it was delievered dry, so I wanted to lube it 1st. I will spin it tonight and see if it is infact hitting. I'm also going to replace the washers with grade 8 regardless of if they are hitting or not. The one's used seem to be grade 5 by the looks of them, from one of Dino's post's I should torque them to 35ft lbs.

I still haven't been able to reach the guy today to ask about the FW and HB, so I'm still lacking an explanation that. Once I get it I will post again, and you guys can chime in on what he explains as the reason to use them from a 258.

meh....
 
I used two grade 8 5/16" washers on each mains stud to raise the girdle enough to clear the no.2 and no.5 rod journals of my stroker crank. I then put the nuts over the girdle and torqued them down to 35lbft.
I used the 4.0 balancer and my existing 4.0 flywheel.
________________________________
Dino's "Mean Green Machine"
1992 XJ Laredo 4-dr - 12k miles on 4.6L HO Stroker AX15, NP231, D35c, D30
small.A9DFB5LA1GZW1.jpg

265hp@4900/325lbft@3500, 1/4 mile = [email protected], 0-60 = 5.7secs
Websites - Jeep 4.0 Performance, 4.6L Stroker Build-Up, Dino's Jeep Tricks
 
Dr. Dyno said:
I used two grade 8 5/16" washers on each mains stud to raise the girdle enough to clear the no.2 and no.5 rod journals of my stroker crank. I then put the nuts over the girdle and torqued them down to 35lbft.
I used the 4.0 balancer and my existing 4.0 flywheel.
Click to expand...

And you used the 3214723 Crank right? Do you think I can use the 4.0 FW & HB with the 3727? Why would he even tell me to do this Dino? Would the CPS even work correctly with a FW from a 258?
 
well my suspicion with the girdle was incorrect thank god, the lights must have been playing tricks with my eyes, there is no contact. There were mold splines (from when the girdle was cast) that cuased a nice shadow to make it seem like there was contact, all is well right now. I carefully filed the splines down a tap, to make the lines on the girdle straight, and indeed, it moved flawlessly. It seems to be set at TDC nicely, and the timing chain is aligned perfect as well.

Still need to answer the FW HB questions, I'll call him in the morning for that.

Todd
 
NHxj4x4 said:
And you used the 3214723 Crank right? Do you think I can use the 4.0 FW & HB with the 3727? Why would he even tell me to do this Dino? Would the CPS even work correctly with a FW from a 258?
Click to expand...

Yup, I used the 3214723 12-counterweight crank.
You can definitely use the 4.0 harmonic balancer on the 3727 crank and you definitely must use the 4.0 flywheel for the CPS to work. Trust me. :)
 
Dr. Dyno said:
Yup, I used the 3214723 12-counterweight crank.
You can definitely use the 4.0 harmonic balancer on the 3727 crank and you definitely must use the 4.0 flywheel for the CPS to work. Trust me. :)
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I appreciate the help.
 
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