4.5'' & 33x10.50s- questions

I need some advice for some plans I have.

I'll be going from 3'' and 31's (wearing out) to apx 4.5'' and would like to run 33/10.50's.

I'll tell you what I have, and what my current plans are, and would like any input or ideas.

The Jeep is a '95 4.0, 4 door, auto, 242, 178K, dana30 and 8.25.

I have:

Tera adjustable UCAs and LCAs (set at factory CA lengths)

ProComp 3'' coil springs

JKS BPEs front and rear

ProComp ES3000 3'' shocks

RE Brake lines on the way, front and rear.

1.75'' Coil Spring spacers on the way.

Rusty's adj. track bar, 3-6'' lift size?? (older silver model)
-I think I'll need a more flexible mount on the frame side...

JKS QDs, 3-6" lift I think

Rancho Spring Packs (5 leaves) and Shackles (greasable)
-These sit close to level, with the shackle back 10-12*, and I
have Rusty's long AALs- I figure I'll try replacing one with it,
and try to net 4.5''

Rusty's T-case drop

Rims are Axis 15x7.5, with 4.5'' backspacing.

TJ flares on the way, $100. (Though they may stick out too far in
the rear, and look funny. But so would keeping stock rear flares I
would imagine... Right now I have no flares.

I plan on cutting the front fenders out to fit the flares, then possibly cutting slits in the rear just past the spot welds, then bending them in. Anyone done it this way? What works best to cut with? I've heard an air body saw..

What lengths should I run on my control arms?

Which shocks would you run?

I plan to go with 10.50 tires because of my backspacing (4.5''), to reduce rubbing. Also I imagine they would be lighter. I'd like to find a 33/9.50 for a spare, to keep it closer to the body on back.

I've got TrailReady Bumpers coming this weekend.
$1,200 for the front w/light holes and brush guard, and the rear with tire carrier (no tail light guards) Had to jump on the deal, but it hurt.

Also, I've got a new drag link with ends coming, and need to order a stronger tie rod with ends as well. Alumi- Flex are on eBay for $85 right now. Are these any good?

I hope that I don't have to get a SYE now, but we'll see how it all works. It acted up at 3.5'' w/o the T-case drop. I plan on 4.56 gears eventually, a LockRite in the rear maybe... What do ya think?

Wheew!! That's a long list you got there,bud! You should be fine,but be aware that you will run into some unforseen problems. Number one being driveshaft angles. I don't know a whole lot about the 242 t-case,but when I did what you're planning on doing,my 231's driveshaft would bind on itself at the slip yoke. My advise would be to go with a longer shackle to lift the rear,as it will help aleviate the binding you'll get with that 8.25's low-low pinion. This will get you by,and in the mean time,save up for a SYE. The other thing is that you're gonna need longer shocks. A lot of lift companies sell shocks for 3" lifted Jeeps that are the same,if not a tad shorter,than the OE shocks. So,better fit that into the budget. Good luck with it,and keep us posted on the progress--Keep Jeepin' :thumbup:

242.

I have the 242 t-case with a tap and hack RE Slip Yoke Kit. I run there Extreme Duty 4.5" leaf springs with a 1/4" longer shackle from ORGS. The driveshaft doesn't bind at all. I also have Rusty's 1" Drop crossmember, mainly for the front driveshaft. But nothing has ever binded on mine.
I will tell you that the 4.5" Leafs from RE do lift about 6.25" and there over two years old and haven't moved. So something to think about if your looking into there stuff. To match these springs go with the 4.5" ZJ Coils to even it out. Just my two coins in the pot.

I run 32 10.50's at 4.5 inches of lift and I had to hack my fenders like crazy to get them to quit rubbing. I would recommend 6 inches for 33's

I would get rid of the pro comp and rancho springs... replace those with 4.5" springs.

My 31's rub on the 3" Coil springs if I crank the steering all the way... My buddy runs 33's on a 6" lift and there's not exactly room to spare. I'd go with the 6" if you want 33's.

I think some of you guys need to look at the backspacing on your rims.

I ran with 3" of lift and TJ flares and could fit 33s no problem. Here's how I cut: http://home.earthlink.net/~jkorda/mods/tjflares.html . I know I cut more in the back than your planning but you should still be alright.

You'll be fine with 4.5" and 33s. I'm at 6" now and am running 35" SSRs.

Sounds like a good plan. I run the same front end with a different leaf pack. BFG 33x10.5s on the street and 33x12.5 TSLs off road with cut fenders and TJ flares. Yes, it rubs a little, but who cares? It doesn't cut the tires. I agree on the SYE though, running a 242 with MIT SYE myself. The stock case output didn't work well.
Have fun and good luck.
mattk

Thanks for the input... I will eventually be putting on 4.5" springs all around, when I can afford them. This is temporary... way too much cash comin out of the account...

But, I have made some progress... My Rancho leaves had to long leaves, the bottom one wrapping around each spring end. As I said, these sat almost level, slight arch.. Well I took that lower one out, and replaced it with Rusty's long aal that I had laying around. The remaining three shorter leaves went under that, and I gained 1-1.5".. And oh how the ride is better. Much softer and flexier now.

When that Trailready bumper/tire carrier goes on, I may have to us a 1" block or something. And the best thing is that I have no vibes!!! At least not yet. The T case is dropped now, which also is temporary. My shackles are 6.5", and now stand almost straight up, just slightly backwards. This probably isn't ideal, but can't do anything about that now.

Tonight the 1.75" poly spacers go in the front, and a new uca bushing (pumpkin mount) if time allows.

Mattk, what's this MIT SYE? I've not heard of it. How does it compare to JB Conversions?

Also, I plan on flexing it out with 33s on to see what length of shocks I should run... Front and rear may differ.. Is this the right way to do it?
Anyone have any experience with ProComp MX6 adj shocks? They might be the ticket, being adjustable and all.

Thanks

MIT- Mechanically Inclined Technicians. I don't know if they have a website. Off-road.com Cherokee america has a writeup on their SYE. My MIT model unlike many from Tom Wood, hasn't leaked for three years now. Does JB make a SYE for the 242?
SYE- Slip Yoke Eliminator; fixes the rear T-case output so that a longer, double cardan jointed driveshaft can be used. This setup tollerates higher angles of operation better while reducing the angles themselves. One thing to remember is that the rear pinion needs to be pointed at the rear T-case output yoke.
I expect you know most of this stuff, but I wasn't sure and there is usually someone out there who doesn't.
mattk

No, you're right. JB doesn't make one, I was thinking of Tom Woods. I'll look into the MIT though.

Just put spacers up front last night, and fought with the pumkin uca bushing.. still can't get a new one in there.

CB