Taking my doors off and i noticed something..

have any of you ever had to deal with this little ridge that outlines the hinge? it blocks the bottom half of the hinge from being hammered out until u chew it out on the bottom so that the hinge can fit through and down, its realllllly eaten up a lot of time because its really inaccessible to tools, been chiseling it, just wondering if anyone else had to deal with this/what they did to solve it thats easier

I'm trying to understand exactly what you're trying to do.
On the doors, if you remove the torx bolts that hold the hinge to the door, the plate easily comes off. Loosening the bolts enough you can loosen the shim and take it out fairly easily.
I've replaced all my doors, and not really sure what it's supposed to do, but does allow adjustment by the shims pretty easyily. If memory serves me, as it's been a bit since I did my doors, the plate can only be put on taken on by removing the bolts, as it's not slotted like the shims are. It'll take a bit of work, but they're not hard to take off, as much as on some very little space. Undoing the small pin for the arm, and unhooking that will help by allowing you go open your door a wee bit more to get in there. Easiest way is a torx bit using a ratchet wrench on it. We used a regular ratchet with small socket and bit. It worked, but barely space to work.

Not sure if this is what you are talking about...but when i removed my doors that way the lip of the shim was catching the door hinge so i grinded off that lower portion lip off the shim/bracket thing(where you arrows are pointed) That allows the doors to lift right off, seriously only takes me 5secs to drop my door down or pull if off that way.

grinder

Cut the extra 1/2 inche of the pins off (green arrow), so the doors don't have to be lifted as high.

Daryl

Edit, make the top pin about 1/8 inch shorter than the bottom. That way you can line up the bottom pin, then the top pin. Easier than trying to get them both lined up at the same time.

JEONLYEP said:

Cut the extra 1/2 inche of the pins off (green arrow), so the doors don't have to be lifted as high.

Daryl

Edit, make the top pin about 1/8 inch shorter than the bottom. That way you can line up the bottom pin, then the top pin. Easier than trying to get them both lined up at the same time.

Click to expand...

This is what I did. I also used a grinder on the lip. I only removed about 1/2" of the lip. Works real well. JIM.

what are you going to do on the other side where the hinges are flipped and the top of the hinge pin in on the bottom of the hinge?

HeavyMetal said:

have any of you ever had to deal with this little ridge that outlines the hinge? it blocks the bottom half of the hinge from being hammered out until u chew it out on the bottom so that the hinge can fit through and down, its realllllly eaten up a lot of time because its really inaccessible to tools, been chiseling it, just wondering if anyone else had to deal with this/what they did to solve it thats easier

Click to expand...

Hi HeavyMetal.

You're on the right track. When you pull your hinges off, take a grinder and grind a notch out of all the hinge pans for both sides. You'll only need to do it in the area right below the hinge pin for all 4 hinges. I use a flapper disc in there so it's rounded out instead of chopped out of there. Also, it's considerably easier to do when you don't have them mounted to the doors.

on my 1st door i just beat the hell out of it ...the 2nd one got cut so it bent easier

I used a dremel w/ a grinding stone and made a notch in it...helped a lot.