Im restoring the frame on my CJ7.. Ive sanded down the 1/2 of the frame and through some primer on it to prevent rust till I finish sanding the rest before paint.. My question is, I know POR15 will adhere to bare metal but will it still adhere to the primer of another manufacture and still have the same affect...
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CJ7 Frame/ POR15/ primer
- Thread starter XTrmXJ
- Start date
Geepfreak
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- The Shop.....
XTrmXJ said:
It will, but not to the same effectivness, could start to flake or peel, having that happen a little on my CJ7 firewall, it has lasted about a year.
XJZ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- SF Bay Area
I'd definately get it back down to the bare metal. You'll first apply the etching solution/Metal Ready. The zinc in the Metal Ready is what bonds the POR to the metal and it works great. I think it's safe to assume the primer doesn't have the same qualities as the Metal Ready. I'd worry about the POR flaking or chipping.
Before moving to CA I lived in MN and put some POR coated parts through the Winter Salt Fest. The POR held up great.
If you're spending the money on POR, I'd do it right, it's worth it. I'd even have the frame sand blasted just before applying the MR and POR, the slight texture and ultra-clean surface really helps with the bonding.
Before moving to CA I lived in MN and put some POR coated parts through the Winter Salt Fest. The POR held up great.
If you're spending the money on POR, I'd do it right, it's worth it. I'd even have the frame sand blasted just before applying the MR and POR, the slight texture and ultra-clean surface really helps with the bonding.
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Ive been sanding with 80 grit then I back it down to 120grit, this way it not to ruff but yet enough for the paint to grip.. Well for the time being since Im doing the frame out side, I will just go back though and clean it back up when it stops raining around here.. The area I working on this is all coverd but there is still surface moisture preventing me from fully sanding down to the bare metal right now
What Rd
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Athens, IL
Read the directions on the POR carefully. ANY water at all anywhere near the wet POR will ruin the desired properties. You want to wait for a very dry day and hit the bare metal with a hair drier or heat gun just before applying the POR (and after the Metal Ready) to make sure the surface is totally dry.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
It is also not a good idea to sand blast it if you can get it dipped n stripped. If you do have it blasted spend the time with a pick and shop vac and maybe some high pressure air to blow out the sand that has gotten blasted into the crevices. If you leave any in there the por will coat it but it will leave bare metal under there where moisture can get trapped and rust out over time.
As far as mixing and matching primers and finishes thats not a good idea, the manufacturers spend alot of time, devleopment and testing to make their stuff work together, anytime you mix brands all bets are off as to durability.
If you have the resources to put it in a closed room, sealed from the outside with plastic drop cloths taped to the floor and ceiling do it, also put an ELECTRIC heater [not kero or propane] in the room a few hours ahead of time to dry it out. Kero and propane byproducts are moisture which is why the electric will work better. If possible try to hang the frame from all 4 corners. Local shop by me uses a couple of old gym sets with casters welded on to the legs to hang stuff from. When not in use they roll them into a corner out of the way. Works pretty well, he got the gym sets from yard sales for like $10 ea and they use them to hang all kinds of parts for painting.
As far as mixing and matching primers and finishes thats not a good idea, the manufacturers spend alot of time, devleopment and testing to make their stuff work together, anytime you mix brands all bets are off as to durability.
If you have the resources to put it in a closed room, sealed from the outside with plastic drop cloths taped to the floor and ceiling do it, also put an ELECTRIC heater [not kero or propane] in the room a few hours ahead of time to dry it out. Kero and propane byproducts are moisture which is why the electric will work better. If possible try to hang the frame from all 4 corners. Local shop by me uses a couple of old gym sets with casters welded on to the legs to hang stuff from. When not in use they roll them into a corner out of the way. Works pretty well, he got the gym sets from yard sales for like $10 ea and they use them to hang all kinds of parts for painting.
Lawn Cher'
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Westampton, NJ
Daddy, where'd my swings go?
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Lawn Cher' said:
They're in the garage now, don't kick the light bulbs out and I don't want to see any foot prints on the door opener...and NO climbing on the work bench to get a flying start either and don't use the middle swing or you'll end up a soprano from the lolly colum :laugh3: ...
dizzymac
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- New Hampshire
Remember that primer acts like a sponge when it comes to moisture, so if it been in a humid enviroment or has been wet you may have problems that you won't even see for awhile. I would bring it back down to the metal and properly prep. before doing the the POR. Might as well POR it once and be done with it.Good luck
