Are your cages tied into the subframe?

I could find it some I'm asking it, Do you guys tie your cages into the subframe or is there a point? Do you just keep the unibody mentality and tie into the body and call it done? My project is loosing the roof, so I will be replacing all of the pilars....thanks for your time.

Not sure exactly what your asking.... soooooo maybe find some pictures and help describe it to us.

I know on MY cage, I welded my tubing to 8" 3/8" round plate. Directly above the "frame" rails. I replaced the rockers with 3x5 .188" square tubing and tied my a pillar and cpillar to it then to the cage.

do some searching for the URF cages, search here and at www.xjdb.com

they are definitely the best way to tie a cage in IMO.

The "unibody mentality" is a non-factor when you consider how thin the floorboards are. If you are going to cage and subframe it, why not integrate the cage to the frame? The URF guys have a sweet system, but I was afraid of their viscious patent rights lawyers so I tired a different approach. The A and B pillar downbars are tied into the subframe, the C pillar downbar wraps around the wheelwell, and the D pillar downbar is welded to a plate directly above the frame rail.


-Jon

Here is an idea. We are getting ready to build a cage on our buddy's cherokee a.k.a MDMike on the board. We going to cut holes in the floor at the A & B maybe C pillars. Then design his rock rails so they lines up with the holes. So the cage would tie into the rails not the floor on the A,B AN C pillars. Just a thought to add some stability to the cage in the front.

I've already boxed in my rockers and I could tie the cage to that. I WANT to tie it into the frame, but the frame is not much better than the floors. It looks like everyone who has tied them into the frame has sleeved them first. I'm on the fense about the necessity of sleeving the subframe WITH a cage. I would weld a plate the frame first before welding the tube.

Why does everyone use such heavy angle and c for sleeving their frame? Is that all that's available in those larger sizes like 3x3 angle? I don't see the point of going heavier than .120 wall. That's what most vehicles with body on frame use for their frames. That .120 would be fastened/welded to the existing sub-frame which is 14 gauge or close to .120 where it has two layers. I don't want to make it heavier then I have to.