Those with RE/Clayton combo LA's.

OverlandZJ · May 22, 2005

What's your wheelbase? Any issues with the RE arms being longer than expected? Or did you eliminate the jam nut to shorten them up a bit more?

I have the RE arms bolted up with Clayton's Crossmember. I had to set the long lowers to 37.25". I'm hoping not to have issues with steering bind etc.

Andy in Pa. · May 23, 2005

John,
I think when I set up Claytons kit he recommended to be around 36-1/2 to 37". I think I ended up around 36-3/4". I have Claytons arms though. I would not remove the jam nut. You should be OK at that length. Are you still running factory (like) steering?

HTH's
Andy

Lawn Cher' · May 23, 2005

I would just like to reiterate that jam nuts are necessary. They take all the slack out of the threads, which would eventually wear over time if left loose.

OverlandZJ · May 23, 2005

Andy in Pa. said:
John,
I think when I set up Claytons kit he recommended to be around 36-1/2 to 37". I think I ended up around 36-3/4". I have Claytons arms though. I would not remove the jam nut. You should be OK at that length. Are you still running factory (like) steering?

HTH's
Andy

Odd...Adam (@Clayton's) said i may have issues since the RE arms were longer than theirs. Adam suggested 35.5-36" with their stuff.

So, i thought i'd have issues setting the RE's at 37.25", BUT once everything was installed and setup i ended up with 101.5" WB. Yep, still using stock steering, but steering will be something i address soon.

Personally, i'd never consider removing the Jam nuts.

Thanks Andy and Mark! See ya'll soon. :wave:

OverlandZJ · May 24, 2005

John B said:
Odd...Adam (@Clayton's) said i may have issues since the RE arms were longer than theirs. Adam suggested 35.5-36" with their stuff.

QUOTE]

Welded the crossmember on tonight....hope all is well. :laugh3:

Reading the directions for installation they do state arm length of 36.5-36.75". So i'm only off by 1/2"....

Clean Racing · May 24, 2005

I am running this set up and the RE arms are at 37 1/2" and the wheel base is 101.5" which is back to stock spec... I may even go another 1" in the rear to stretch it out...

fdsa487 · Jun 9, 2005

Can someone provide me w/ the link to the Claytons web site.

xj-grin · Jun 9, 2005

http://www.claytonoffroad.com/

fdsa487 · Jun 9, 2005

I dont think that i would want to go w/ square tubeing. Round tubeing is WAY stonger than square. I wonder why they made their kit square.

xjj33p3r · Jun 10, 2005

fdsa487 said:
I dont think that i would want to go w/ square tubeing. Round tubeing is WAY stonger than square. I wonder why they made their kit square.

Lifetime warranty is a good feature with the clayton kit though. I've heard of RE arms bending, but not Clayton, so maybe their is something about their arms that makes them stronger... or less bendable.... whatever

Phil · Jun 10, 2005

fdsa487 said:
I dont think that i would want to go w/ square tubeing. Round tubeing is WAY stonger than square. I wonder why they made their kit square.

Would you care to back this up with any facts? Material properties of the square tubing and round tubing in question? Moments of inertia? Calculations? Data from actual material testing?

Or do you just THINK (propably dangerous for you) that since you see more round tubing, it's stronger?

Kittrell · Jun 10, 2005

fdsa487 said:
I dont think that i would want to go w/ square tubeing. Round tubeing is WAY stonger than square. I wonder why they made their kit square.

Don't even start this arguement again, especially when you are talking out of your ass........... hasta

cracker · Jun 10, 2005

91 Jeep Project said:
Don't even start this arguement again, especially when you are talking out of your ass........... hasta

You beat me to it! Some of his comments..........:huh:

Jeepkid8037 · Jun 10, 2005

fdsa487 said:
I dont think that i would want to go w/ square tubeing. Round tubeing is WAY stonger than square. I wonder why they made their kit square.

This local certified welder that i know also told me round tubing is stronger...He said all metal tubing started out round, and is then bent to a square shape which makes it weaker. But hell if i know hte difference....

Ramsey · Jun 10, 2005

know know kids play nice or i'm gonna take away your toys. the guy is trying to learn, give him a chance.*

*at least he is searching!!!

fdsa487 · Jun 10, 2005

At least admit that a 1" solid (round) steel bar is harder to bend than a 1" solid (square) steel bar. Is it not true?

Kittrell · Jun 10, 2005

fdsa487 said:
At least admit that a 1" solid (round) steel bar is harder to bend than a 1" solid (square) steel bar. Is it not true?

This is not the thread for it, search if you wanna find the result of the exhaustive debate over it.

Those with RE/Clayton combo LA's.

OverlandZJ

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Andy in Pa.

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Lawn Cher'

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OverlandZJ

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OverlandZJ

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Clean Racing

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fdsa487

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xj-grin

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fdsa487

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xjj33p3r

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Phil

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Kittrell

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cracker

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Ramsey

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fdsa487

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Kittrell

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