tie rod building

I wnt ot build my own tie rod and was wondering what inserts to use on the ends of the DOM
using this dom
http://www.spidertrax.com/hardware_dom.htm
now where so I get insserts that will allow me to use stock tie rod ends
in a good size DOM
or a better question what is the size of stock thread on a tie rod end
I quess I could use what spider trax has ie 3/4 thread and appropriate DOM but the ends are $24 eacha nd the n the DOM and shipping ..hell I could just buy one istead of fabbing it for that kind of money
also I wnat to use the stock ones so if I snap one it acan be replaced at any NAPA

I've been useing 1 1/8 1/4 wall DOM withch has a id of 5/8 witch is perfect for taping out to 3/4-16 witch is great for either hiems or halfton dodge tierod ends witch match the size and taper of the stock XJ rod ends. The stock ends are a 11/16 but don't remember the thread pitch. you could use thier 1 in 3/16 DOM if you wanted.

Anthony, I used 1.25" OD x 7/8" ID (.188 wall) DOM for my draglink and tierod, and used the 3/4" x 16 Spidertrax weld-in inserts. I retapered my knuckles from the top to use ES150 TRE's (Ford and Chevy truck applications, bigger and very common) as well as the pitman arm. I started out with an inverted T setup, but went with an over the knuckle inverted Y, very similar to the stock XJ setup, only much stronger and up out of harms way. I had the draglink bent similar to the stock unit, and have also moved the trackbar mount up on top of the axle for proper geometry. While others have gone to a 1/4" wall DOM, the 3/16 wall is still much stronger than stock and since I'm not running 38's, should be plenty beefy.
(Thanks to Paul S, Richard, and others for their input)

Poison spider has weld in bungs. check them out.

so I found these
http://spydercustoms.com/parts/steering/tie_rod_links.htm#TR-TubeAdapters
and the charts says cj and tj tie rod they are the same as XJ right??

Anthony, long time no see. You should just tap the DOM for the TREs or REs you're going to use. I've built a couple steering setups like this and they work awesome and are stronger than welding in bungs........a welded bung can break loose where the 3" of threads would have to pull out of the DOM......not likely.

Anyway, I've used 1.25" .344 and drilled it for a 3/4 x 18 pt. heim joint and the last setup was 1.25" .288 wall which is easily tappable to 3/4" x 18 without drilling.

Sorry to be Hi jackin here but I have a question....

XJEEPER--Does retapering the knuckles from the top for the ES150 joints completely cut through the knuckle? As retapering stock size through the top would only cut halfway through and not be as strong. Also you say these TREs use the 3/4" 16pt thread right?
If so these will be perfect for the setup I am working on..

Thanks

Tim