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Tow hook options....

G

gtpolkus

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Delafield,WI
Anybody know if there are tow hooks that don't involve mounting to the bumper bracket? Reason I ask is I have a smittybilt brush guard (I know, it was one of my worst purchases) and it mounts to the same bolts that are needed to mount tomken/rustys/ c4x4/stock OEM tow hook brackets. It doesn't appear that tow hook brackets and the brush guard will work together. I need front tow points, and I would like to keep the brush guard. Is there any brackets out there that mount along the bottom of the subframe rail? Has anybody run a brush guard and tow hooks together?
 
gtpolkus said:
those are only around $100, right? It is also my understanding that it is a much stronger tow point...is this true?
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I have one of those front 2" recievers sitting here. I paid $60 for it used, its in pretty good shape. I'll give it to you for $60 as well, you pay shipping. I'm in Los Angeles.

-Cal
 
gtpolkus said:
those are only around $100, right? It is also my understanding that it is a much stronger tow point...is this true?
Click to expand...

I believe they are stronger tow points (I could be completely wrong), but you go from having two to one though... One hangs lower then the other (between going hidden hitch and drawtite)... I think the drawtite hangs a lil' lower then the hidden hitch.

I wish I could remember clearly... sorry, I hope that helps though
 
Tow hooks, in order to function safely, need to be connected to many points down the frame rails. You can probably bolt them on to function along with your brush guard, just make sure they are connected to several points. A quick search for tow points will give you many ideas...
 
jbassxj said:
I believe they are stronger tow points (I could be completely wrong), but you go from having two to one though... One hangs lower then the other (between going hidden hitch and drawtite)... I think the drawtite hangs a lil' lower then the hidden hitch.

I wish I could remember clearly... sorry, I hope that helps though
Click to expand...
Switch that....hidden hangs lower than the drawtite.

And that brush guard isn't a bad purchase...sure it isn't an ARB but they do work alright. I have a manik brush guard on my 99 and it has taken some punnishment...including an Excursion backing into me. A few scratches and dings but it is still straight. Besides, it was only $150.
Just my 2 cents,
Dave
 
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I have a Go Rhino (it was free, and kinda looks cool) with C4x4 tow hooks. Brackets are a bitch, but everything fits together. My front skid had to have a talk with the angle grinder though. The only thing I needed was a spacer for one of the holes that the grill guard doesn't use. A uni-strut bracket cut up worked fine.

--Matt
 
BruteXJ said:
Is that front hitch for $60.00 gone yet? I'll fly out and pick it up at whichever CA airport is convienent for you.
Click to expand...


I dropped the ball on getting brand/pictures to GP (i blew up my d35 and got sidetracked fixing it), but will get them in a day or two. If he doesnt want it, I'll PM you.

-Cal
 
With all the talk of tow points (train) this could get to the Den easly LOL. Anyway to the topic at hand. I got the old lady one of those push bars for the ZJ, and it came with brackets to alow it to function with the factory tow hooks. gtpolous if you pull your brush guard off and check, I'll bet there is some adjustment in the mount that would the tow hook brackets, and the guard to work together. Remember the brush guard had to work with factory installed tow hooks too.
 
RichP said:
The back one is kind of weak if you ever saw a factory one here
Click to expand...

The factory ones maybe stronger, but my hooks are still very strong. On a recent snow run, they were used probably ten times by having a winch pull me from many angles out of ditches and various perdicaments that I put myself into. One of the pulls was near 90*, pulling from the side. They have not failed and there is zero damage to the unibody with six months of use with both winch and strap pulls.

If you look at the pic of the OEM hook, it uses the same three holes on the frame. It just adds that second piece for lateral stability which I have proven is not neaded. I would be a sinch to add that feature if there was enough demand. Like I said, I have zero reported failures.
 
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do they actually bolt through the hook? Even so I still say it's a bad idea to weld hooks. They are different metals and welding can weaken the hook. I've heard your not allowed to run welded hooks at some events because of this.
 
I just took another look, I think if you didn't weld the hook and just bolted it, they would look good and be plenty strong.
 
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