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Long term storage?

UltimateG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tahoe
Hey,

I'm preparing to put the Jeep on mothballs for 8 months (or possibly more)
So far, I've heard that before I go I should:

*Add some gas stabilizer to 1/4 tank of quality fuel

*Check to see that the air filter is intact

*spray some WD-40 into the cylinders when I park it.

*disconnect the battery


Any other suggestions?

I know that it would be ideal to find someone to fire it up once a month. That's not an option.


Also, I have a cover to throw over it, are these things okay to leave untouched on the jeep for extended periods.
Here's the model: http://www.jnkproducts.com/200_carcover.htm
 
UltimateG said:
*Add some gas stabilizer to 1/4 tank of quality fuel

Add some fuel stabiliser to a completely full tank (i.e., fill it as far up the neck as is reasonable). This will help to prevent condensation and rust - if there's nothing for it to collect on, it can't happen.

*Check to see that the air filter is intact

Definitely. Also plug the intake at both the suction end and throttle body. Old socks work great for this.

*spray some WD-40 into the cylinders when I park it.

Never heard of doing this before on a healthy vehicle - but do change the oil and filter, and add something along the lines of Lucas Oil Stabiliser first, being sure to give it a good run with that in the crankcase before parking it. In fact, do this 100 miles or so before the fuel treatment. Expect mayonnaise on the oil filler after recomissioning, though - condensation will collect in the oil pathways, but it's not necessarily indicative of a blown head gasket. Clean it off and give it fresh oil and you should be OK.

*disconnect the battery

And clean both sets of terminals once they're off. Don't necessarily expect the battery to work once you come back to it, though. Coat them in Vaseline to prevent rust.

Any other suggestions?

OK, your profile says you're up in Tahoe. It's May now, so storing a car for eight months means that you won't get to it until somewhere in January or February - four months of summer followed by four months of winter until it runs again.

Get as much moisture out of the cabin as possible. Run with the heater on full and windows down wherever possible to achieve this; the last thing you want to come back to is an XJ full of mould. Make sure that your seals are good - if they aren't, you'll have the same mould problem while it's parked fom ambient dampness. If in any doubt, spray the interior down with Lysol when it's garage time.

Change all fluids before you recomission it, but make sure the antifreeze is up to the job before parking the beast.

Spray off any road/trail dirt, both underneath and on the body. This will help to keep rust (which never sleeps) at bay. Grind down and at least primer any existing rust patches.

Also, I have a cover to throw over it, are these things okay to leave untouched on the jeep for extended periods.
Here's the model: http://www.jnkproducts.com/200_carcover.htm

There're two schools of thought on car covers: a) they're the best thing since sliced salami; b) they're moisture traps at best.

I've never covered any of my vehicles, all of which have lived outside. IMHO covers are rust and mould/mildew traps, but YMMV. Bear in mind that while they're good at keeping surface threats at bay, they also trap a lot of stuff under themselves. Again, YMMV, but I've never been much of a fan of them.
 
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UltimateG said:
*spray some WD-40 into the cylinders when I park it.

I prefer to use oil mist. Heavy oil in a spray bottle, nozzle in spark plug hole and spray.

UltimateG said:
I know that it would be ideal to find someone to fire it up once a month. That's not an option.

Actually that would be a bad idea unless that person were going to drive the vehicle for 30 minutes or more...drive as in moving. Starting a stored vehicle each month and sitting there idling or even reving the engine doesn't allow sufficient heat to burn off water and combustion byproducts and in fact will allow acids and such to accummulate in the oil. Park it and let it sit.

Sarge
 
Something like this will also help with interior moisture control. Some cheap insurance if you will. My brother used to use them when storing his Mustang for the winter.
 
i don't know about anything lucas makes i've only seen that stuff ruin rearends. I would change the oil before you fire it up when you come back. Mabey even drain it before you leave. Clean all the dirt off the battery before you leave. You might even want to put the battery in a plastic bag. My .02
 
Definitely put it on blocks unless you want flat spots on your tires. Tires dont like to sit for long and the rubber will actually become deformed. Having the tires off the ground will help prevent rodents esp if you put mothballs around the bottom of the blocks, jackstands are better at preventing rodents. Take the battery clear out of the jeep and put it in your garage on a maintenance charger.
 
prb24 said:
Something like this will also help with interior moisture control. Some cheap insurance if you will. My brother used to use them when storing his Mustang for the winter.

Those are basically really big versions of those Silica packs you find in just about anything, the things that say "do not eat."

I second the putting the putting the vehicle up on jack stands, also cover the tires to keep sunlight off it (if parking outside), sun kills rubber.

If in a rodent infested area do yourself a favor and figure something out about keeping them out of the vehicle, I've seen many rodents nests in engine bays of vehicles, it doesn't do the wiring any favors at all!

Clean the engine bay real well first too, get all that old oil covering stuff out of there, that will attack wiring insulation.

Give it fresh fluids all around - do not forget the transmission, axles, or transfer case (if so equipped)! Upon your return drain those fluids and refill with fresh.

If you are able to park it indoors (I don't recall if you specified indoors or outdoors) I'd leave the windows cracked about 1" or so. For indoors I would use the cover to keep dust on. Outdoors I wouldn't unless you can get somebody to take it off occasionally for heavy rains or a wash off, I would not leave a cover on for eight months straight unsupervised unless it were damn good and made for that situation (I am not sure if any such covers exist).

Another thing I would do is block off the cowl vents (vents in front of the windshild). Look at this device and see about fabricating something simliar for the XJ, cowls love to rot in just about any vehicle. http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=COWL2+01

Sequoia
 
All good advice.

Indoors or outside, if you choose to cover use a car cover and DO NOT use one of those blue tarps, or a rubberized tarp they WILL trap moisture and fubar your paint as they rot away (personal experience). I'd probably just do a good wax job rather than investing in a cover.

Rodents may be an issue even if you are not in an infested area. I'd consider putting a bar of rat bait up under the hood. I don't believe it attracts them, and if they end up under your hood, they would have been there anyhow. . . At least with this, they don't live long enough to build a nest and raise a bunch of youngins. . .
 
Never put rat baits in your car, you dont want to try and figure where in the HVAC system the rat decided to go and die. Jacked off the ground with mothballs under the tires is the way to go.
 
cmotsvt said:
Never put rat baits in your car, you dont want to try and figure where in the HVAC system the rat decided to go and die. Jacked off the ground with mothballs under the tires is the way to go.

Yeah, I'll agree jackstands and mothballs under the wheels is safer (smell wise) and a better way to go. . . and putting rat bait INSIDE the car (rather than under the hood like I said) really increases the likelyhood of wondering where he crawled off to die. . .

I've seen first hand the unbelievable amount of damage they can do so have a tendency to want to nuke them by any means possible.

cmotsvt said:
Take the battery clear out of the jeep and put it in your garage on a maintenance charger.

x2
 
Sarge said:
I prefer to use oil mist. Heavy oil in a spray bottle, nozzle in spark plug hole and spray.
Sarge

I'll second that one, as long as the oil atomizes well. The problem with using WD-40 is that the carrier (kerosene) will cut through any oil that's already on the cylinder walls, and could run past the rings.

I've seen dessicant/drier plugs to use in place of spark plugs, but never in the 14mm size you'd need, only in 18mm. Not worth it for only 8 months anyway, but I'd look into them if it was to be stored a couple of years.

I did see mention of plugging the intake. I'd plug the exhaust too. There's a good chance that you'll have one exhaust valve slightly open, so that jug will pick up consensation over time.
 
There is stuff called "Engine Storage" spray and you spray it into the motor till it stall's then you pull each plug and fog the cylinder then put the plugs back in. Then leave it alone and not start it till you plan on taking it out of storage.
Also any holes you plug ie. Exhaust, air intake or otherwise use stainless wool it the only thin a mouse won,t chew through.
 
One question, are you storing it inside or outside ?
Inside storage, jeep up on blocks, let air out of tires and keep them out of contact with the cement floor. Fill your oil up all the way, you want to cover the crankshaft, pour oil in to the cylinders, over time it will seep past the rings but it will smoke like a sob when you first fire it up.
Remove your antenna, windshield wipers, cover with a cotton sheet, kingsize fitted with the elastic corners. Full gastank with stabilizer though I don't think stabil is advertised for more than 7 months so be prepared for varnish when you get back. The fuel quality has gotten pretty bad in the last few years, used to be I could leave my mower, lawn tractor or snowblower full for the storage months, not the past few years, gas seems to sour much quicker so I might consider emptying the tank now. I would leave the windows cracked and spray all the door seals with silicone spray or wipe them with silicone grease.
Outside is similar, jackstands, tires off ground, 4x4 or 6x6 railroad tie from front to back with a heavy mil plastic sheet stretched across it, jeep parked on top and sheet tightened to keep moisture from collecting underneath and any water that gets under there will run off. Good breathable car cover, they are not cheap. The cover for my bike was over $130 back in 82'.
Everybody has their own mojo for storage, I used to store mine for 110 days at a time while in the navy and doing deterrent patrols on submarine duty on the fleet ballistic missile boat and 4-9 months when I was on the attack boats. It dawned on me that the really smart ones on the attack boats all bought junkers or quick sellers for the 2 or 3 months a year you were actually in your home port and waited till they were on shore duty to buy a good car.
 
GSequoia said:
Okay Rich... I can understand the wipers...but why remove the antenna?
I would think so the sheet will fit over it better?
I forgot but Rich is right also FILL the gas tank as well and add the "stabil" fuel stabilizer to it and make sure you run it long enough that you have the new gas and stabil mix through all the line's and injectors.
Also when you start it up again I would disable the fuel pump and crank it a bunch of times so you build oil pressure befor you start it, that way it's not shuch a dry start.
 
GSequoia said:
Okay Rich... I can understand the wipers...but why remove the antenna?
Punches holes in the car cover....humours side, we have been rebuilding the TJ for the last 3 months. I'd remove the antenna and put the tarp over it, keith would pull the tarp, put antenna on listen to radio and work on it and cover it back up with the antenna, I'd wake up in the morning early, see the antenna poking thru the tarp, run out and remove it putting it somewhere it would not get bent or lost. This went on for 4 weeks till he said someone kept screwing with his antenna and hiding it [me, shoulda put it in MY jeep :D ]thats the reason it stuck in my mind... :laugh3:
 
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Just one fine point.. When you jack it up and off the tires, support it from the "frame" ot the axles or the springs will sag remarkably before next year.
I would also look to remove anything a mouse could shred into a bed.
(My toilet paper roll became a bed in the glove box last winter)
 
So: couple questions:

"Plug the intake at both the suction end and throttle body"

How do I do this?

-
and what's an acceptable cheap substitute for the jackstands?
 
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