6 lug to 8 lug conversion

I recently purchased a dana 44 front out of waggy, I am planning on running a 60 in the rear and want to have 8 lug front and rear. I know I could just buy adapters but, I was wondering how involved changing the hubs and whatnot would be. What parts from what would I need to use anything would be helpful. Thanks for any help. I miss my jeep I gotta get this thing moving again. :rattle:
Josh

Dacula92xj said:

I recently purchased a dana 44 front out of waggy, I am planning on running a 60 in the rear and want to have 8 lug front and rear. I know I could just buy adapters but, I was wondering how involved changing the hubs and whatnot would be. What parts from what would I need to use anything would be helpful. Thanks for any help. I miss my jeep I gotta get this thing moving again. :rattle:
Josh

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adapters are shit, just change the knuckles out. Its super simple work.

do it right the first time, and you wont kick yourself in the ass later

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What Kind of knuckles would work im guessing something with an 8 lug 44 front but does anybody know what vehicles that would be from, wich ones are better than others, or all they all the same. Not to be a pain but if im gonna do it I would like to do it right.
Thanks,
Josh

For my Waggy front I used stuff from a Dodge 3/4 ton and used everything from the knuckles out. Bolts right up and you can re-use your locking hubs. You'll need a set from an '80s Dodge. Also all '80s Dodges that I have seen have flat top knuckles so if you are planning on Hi-steer down the road you'll be set.

Only draw back is that the taperd hole in the steering arm is drilled smaller than the Waggy ones so you will have to address that if you decide to re-use the Waggy steering.

I also used a D60 rear from a Dodge and spring mount width matchs up to my XJ springs perfectly. Just have to build shock mounts.

Chevy 3/4 ton trucks are all over junkyards and have 8 lug outers that will bolt right up to your knuckles. It doesn't matter if it's a 10 bolt or a D44, the outers are the same.

You don't need to change the knuckles.

All disk braked Waggy axles used the same late model Chevy spindle. Most refer to it as the large bearing. That spindle was used on all 78 and newer Chevy solid front ends (having problems tieing down 77), 1/2T and the 8 lug 3/4T.

What you need from a 78-end of the straight axle parts. You want an internal locking hub that looks (and is) just like the one on your Waggy.
Hub and rotor
Caliper Brackets
Calipers

They use the same wheel bearing as the waggy and same stub shaft.

One thing to be careful of. Some of the Waggy front ends had a weird index on the stud pattern for the spindle. Make sure yours has on of the studs at the 12:00 position. This causes the calipers to be tipped at a weird angle.

edit - Brett won the race, but I have more substance.

Thanks guys yall rock thats exactly what I needed to know hopefully I can get this thing put together soon. I have one more question the hubs that are on my axle arent manual, can I just purchase a manual hub or pick up the chevy hub and use it when I get the rest of the parts.
Thanks again,
Josh

Those guys know their stuff, I dont know much about the waggy stuff. I went straight to a 3/4 ton ford HP axle.

Dacula92xj said:

...the hubs that are on my axle arent manual, can I just purchase a manual hub or pick up the chevy hub and use it when I get the rest of the parts.
Thanks again,
Josh

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Yes. If they are that auto hub junk throw them away. If they are flanges (no on or off) keep them to carry for spares.

Those full time 4x4 slugs found in the hubs can make great spares for when you break a hub and dont have a spare with you. Just be aware you wont break that drive flange and you'll either snap a joint or have a shaft let go first.