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Front Caliper Upgrade

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cuoxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Huntington, WV
Anyone know of a caliper upgrade for the stock lpd30. Mine is a 2k. Searched google and NAXJA and only found the WJ conversion. It seems a bit more than I want to tackel.

TIA
Rick
 
I really am just looking for something like a dual piston caliper. I would do a big brake kit if I could stay with factory 15" wheels, and if one was made.
 
Personaly I find the breaks in my 2000 lacking at times too. I have tooled with the idea a few times myself, but never found anything eather.
 
How about a different master ?? Has any one done a swap on a 97+ ??
 
Brembo makes a kit....$$$$...
 
I've heard tell that Volvo 4 pot calipers can be used - I presume that it is because the diameter of the discs used is similar. You would have to fab a mounting plate which would allow you to adapt the caliper positioning to suit your axle. Come to think of it, if you use that idea, any suitably sized 4 potter would fit. Wilwood universal 4 pots use mounting plates to adapt to different cars, so if they do it, I suppose the rest of us can too.

Oh, and if Yucca Man reads this, Old Zealand is in Holland. Actually, it's Zeeland, but that's just pedantry. :)
 
Why waste the time and energy on upgrading the front. Upgrade the rear to disc and have a lot more stopping power. I tow 3000 lb trailers that don't have breaks and adding rear calipers to my XJ keeps the trailer under control. You can do a ZJ fabrication or get a setup from Stainless Steel Brakes. Seems to me your just trying to put a thicker plank on a rotted bridge.

Just my opinion.
 
rstarch345 said:
Why waste the time and energy on upgrading the front. Upgrade the rear to disc and have a lot more stopping power. I tow 3000 lb trailers that don't have breaks and adding rear calipers to my XJ keeps the trailer under control. You can do a ZJ fabrication or get a setup from Stainless Steel Brakes. Seems to me your just trying to put a thicker plank on a rotted bridge.

Just my opinion.
Click to expand...

You have about 60-75% of your braking force channelled through the front wheels, especially on hard braking, so if you really want to stop, beef up the front. But yes, doing the rear conversion does help too - I've done it. One thing I have just remembered is that you need to check the volumes on the calipers - if the overall piston volume is significantly larger, you may have to change the master cylinder to one with a larger capacity.
 
Last edited:
Chancer said:
You have about 60-75% of your braking force channelled through the front wheels, especially on hard braking, so if you really want to stop, beef up the front. But yes, doing the rear conversion does help too - I've done it. One thing I have just remembered is that you need to check the volumes on the calipers - if the overall piston volume is significantly larger, you may have to change the master cylinder to one with a larger capacity.
Click to expand...

True, but I did my homework. I've a different master cylinder and proportioning valve with synthetic fluid and SS break lines (to handle the increased pressure from the synthetic). Mine is adjusted in a 55 / 45 ratio because when towing, you need more braking force in the rear.
 
The number of pistons in a caliper is not a good indicator of the stopping power. The most important factor is the area covered by the pads, followed by the piston area.

I don't think the new XJ front brakes need any upgrading at all. Compared to the early XJs, the new ones are 1000% better. If you're not happy with the way they stop, try performance pads (semi-metallics or carbon fiber types).
 
Would cross drilled rotors be a good option to keep brakes from fading? It could be an option, although I don't know how useful it would yield itself to be.
 
I run PowerSlot slotted rotors and Performance Friction pads. After the break-in period the stopping power is increased quite a bit. Theres much talk of slotted rotors cracking and such when heated up and then cooled by water. Going to the Grand Cherokee conversion before buying bigger tires (if you have 15" wheels stock) would be around the same price with new wheels and would probably give you what you are looking for.
 
cuoxj said:
Anyone know of a caliper upgrade for the stock lpd30. Mine is a 2k. Searched google and NAXJA and only found the WJ conversion. It seems a bit more than I want to tackel.

TIA
Rick
Click to expand...
I wanna say Stainless Steel Brake has a front kit with some trick calipers. I upgraded our Audi front discs from 11.5 inch discs to 12.5 inch discs and noticed a HUGE improvement in stopping. If I had the cash, I'd upgrade the front with bigger rotors, as well as better calipers. Problem is, that is very expensive! Plus, you won't like be able to fit bigger discs inside of 15's. Those 12.5 inch rotors barely fit inside 16's.
HTH
 
I guess I will try the rotor and pad upgrade with ss lines up front. If thats not up to par, then maybe try the rear disc conversion. Any sugestions on brand of flex lines/hoses? Thanks to all for the help. I want to get my brakes up to the level of a sports car, and keep my 15" wheels. Anyone think that this is realistic?

Rick
 
cuoxj said:
I guess I will try the rotor and pad upgrade with ss lines up front. If thats not up to par, then maybe try the rear disc conversion. Any sugestions on brand of flex lines/hoses? Thanks to all for the help. I want to get my brakes up to the level of a sports car, and keep my 15" wheels. Anyone think that this is realistic?

Rick
Click to expand...

Not unless you are willing to spend lots of money...... but ultimatly possible? sure, anything is possible if you have the time and money.

And you previously mentioned that you want "direct bolt-on". Based on my experience, and what others have said here; you wont likely find bolt on stuff that gets you this type of performance braking.
 
Wolz said:
I run PowerSlot slotted rotors and Performance Friction pads. After the break-in period the stopping power is increased quite a bit. Theres much talk of slotted rotors cracking and such when heated up and then cooled by water. Going to the Grand Cherokee conversion before buying bigger tires (if you have 15" wheels stock) would be around the same price with new wheels and would probably give you what you are looking for.
Click to expand...
Wolze I think you are refering to the cross drilled roters, and the cracking. I haven,t heard anything on the slotted roters cracking, but I guess if you buy cheep ones you might have the same problem. In my opinion as long as you buy a known good quality brand you shouldn't have any problems with them, and if you do they will be more willing to make it right.
 
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