Hey ArcticXJ!! here you go *DUW*

did you blow your own doors off?














oh, and there is something sticking out of your hood......

I had trouble finding both colder plugs and stronger head bolts so here are the part numbers if anyone is interested:

head bolts 180,000 psi
7- 90201A443 Grade 9 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw Zinc Yellow-Plated, 1/2"-13 Thread, 4-1/2" Length

7- 90201A437 Grade 9 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw Zinc Yellow Plated, 1/2"-13 Thread, 3-1/2" Length

ordered at mcmaster carr

sparkplugs splitfire 2 step colder sf392c

also accel 0784 or 8191 1 step colder 0786 or 8192

might need a "beefier" headgasket, mine is a FelPro severe duty 530SD
if I could do it again I'd go with a copper headgasket from SCE

right now as it stands I need to rebuild the turbo as you can see from the last pic and will probably start tearing into the turbo today/tommorrow.
Its hard to make a HP claim especially without a dyno to back it up but simple math calculations show numbers in the 350+ range with 12psi and because of the ported head, again though just calculations at this point.

After the turbo rebuild I'd like to add an external 255lph pump along with a 3 gallon fuel tank for running high octane fuel and more advanced timing. After that I'm going to need and OBD II scanner to observe short and long term fuel trims to adjust everday driveability. Right now WOT is at an A/F of 12.3 at 5 psi and 11.8 at 12 psi and pulling about 19* of timing at 12 psi. Boost response is almost instantaneous with it whistling even at idle and making about 10 psi by 2500rpm.
I'm basically going to run it until it blows then pretty much build up the engine with forged pistons and rods and might as well turbo cam it. I will decide wether to stroke or not depending on what forged rods/pistons are available and ulimately go with whoever has the "beefiest". If I keep my 4.0L displacement all it really takes is the turn of a knob and I can compensate for the lack of hp from not stroking by adding more boost.

Awesome...I'd like to see some video or even a hear a sound clip!

WoW! Great job on the setup.
What trim is the turbo?
Are you getting and lagg with the 4.0L? :shocked:

prb24 said:

Awesome...I'd like to see some video or even a hear a sound clip!

Click to expand...

here you go.....though the cheapo cam I have just doesnt do it justice. I'm thinking the frequency range of the turbo is much higher than the camera can record.
just revving

the turbo is part Precision turbo and part Turbonetics its a T3/T4 turbo with .48 exhaust A/R and .60 compresor A/R. It was originally purchased for a 3.8 v6 mustang as a complete kit from Pro Turbo Kits in texas and obviously the only thing left intact from that kit is the turbo, the IC has been modified to flow water instead of air.

:guitar::guitar::guitar::guitar:

Very nice...thanks...

before I get bashed for going with a turbo instead of a S/C........the XJ was built for "fast" offroading meaning no rock crawling and meant for duning, beach cruising and sand drags which is its main purpose.

If anybody else decides turbo here is a chart I came up with for choosing pipe diameters, it was based on a book named "maximum Boost". It states that an air velocity of 450 ft/second should never be exceeded otherwise it starts to become a restriction and heat begins to build. What we want to do is keep air velocity as high as possible without becoming a restriction to help reduce lag and keep turbo response high. When building the tubing we must always keep realistic hp goals and chose pipes right at our hp goal.

so with a max AV limit of 450 ft/second

450 / 2.40057 = 187.45547 x square inch of pipe = cfm / 1.5 = hp

pipe 2in cfm hp
2.0 = 3.14 = 588.61017 = 392hp
2.25 = 3.9740625 = 744 = 496hp
2.5 = 4.90625 = 919.70339 = 613hp
2.75 = 5.9365625 = 1112.8411 = 741hp
3.0 = 7.065 = 1324.3728 = 882hp

on the left is the ID of the pipe ,2inch ,cfm at 450ft/sec and finally the hp said pipe would support at an air velocity of 450 ft/sec

Good God I am jealous. I miss the turbo life. Setup looks good.

I would put in a cage if you are going to ditch the rear hatch.


Also, does the hood open whith that air filter on? Are you going to cover that stuff that is exposed any? Sand and water might get into the engine compartment if it is that open. Looks good though

Good Golly Miss Molly.....

Looks like fun in the making...

Nice berm blaster!

Thats hella-awesome. Do you have any inside pictures of the funky looking metal box that feeds the intake?

...why do I get the feeling I'm gonna be out at Imperial dunes, and see some white blur go by?lol...good-looking build, loved all the pics.

BAAAHHH!!!! looks like my bandwidth was exceeded.....oh well.

Hey lost1 do you go out to the races up in the mesa on Sundays?

need to see pics!

Yeah, you might really want to put links to those instead of posting all 30-some pics at once; they reload everytime someone hits Page 1. A quick writeup desribing what we're looking at and why you chose to go that route would be pretty nice. The pics are (were) cool to look at, but an article with your review would be a nice way to go...

I never really expected that many people to view the thread what with the "noninclusive" subject title. Intstead of a description I chose a start to finish picture aproach and decided to let the pictures speak for themselves.....

If anybody is still interested here are a few pics:
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/water_x_air_ic.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/the_turbo.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/xj_turbo_header.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/header_1.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/header_2.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/header_3.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/finished_header.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/turbo_mount.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/turbo_mount_header_in_xj.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/3.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/6.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/2.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/1.jpg

as you can see from the above pics the turbo header is a pacesetter modified to face forward, anybody wanting to replicate this setup and still keep the turbo under the hood could just make the turbo mount a little shorter and place the turbo in the area between powersteering and ECU. I'm thinking the it would be advisable to relocate the ECU elsewhere because of heat issues. The exhaust could simply be routed back down going between the fender/intake to the original stock location where the downpipe meets the header. Of course the stock exhaust system would be very restrictive especially the cat. A restrictive exhaust limits the amount of pressure that would build, when this system was on my mustang with its stock exhaust no matter how high I would set my boost controller boost would not go beyond 7 psi. I installed an electric exhaust cutout and when running open with a setting of 12psi, boost would then spike to beyond 17psi on launch which definately told me that anything after the turbo builds back pressure and when psi increases so does the exhaust volume. I also believe that the same increase in exhaust volume exceeds the turbos' wastegate capacity to efficiently control boost so this weekend I decided to tear apart the turbo and P&P the wastegate since I'm going to rebuild it anyways.

here are some pics of the turbo torn apart:
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/t3.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/t4.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/t7.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/t12.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/tpp2.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/tpp1.jpg

in these pics you can see the results of turning off the turbo before it reached an acceptable temperature, what happens is the extreme temps of the turbo fry the now sitting oil on the housing which later turns to carbon and wears the turbos internals. You may think how is carbon going to wear the the turbo but something to think about is how fast the turbo is spinning which is somewhere between 50-90K+ rpm.You can aslo see the small size of the wastegate, this is why I blew the headgasket because boost spiked to 17psi.The wastegate measured .868" while stock and the flapper 1.44", the new ported wastegate measures 1.33" on the outside and gets smaller inside to an ellipse size of .978" x 1.17" which is definatly a major improvement and should now help the boost controller keep pressure in check.

here are some pics of my old turbo TJ setup:
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/water_cooled_intercooler006.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/water_cooled_intercooler004.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/ic_fan_and_scoop007.jpg
http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1289/turbo_tube_2001.jpg

the turbo on the TJ was placed on the passenger side and went threw 3 transformations, one used a direct tube from the turbo to the TB the other used an air/air IC with a fan and hood scoop and the last transformation converted the IC into water/air. Unfortunately I had an accident and the TJ is no more