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Frustrated XJ owner, please help or i will...

Purple

Purple

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mississauga, Ontario, Canada
... litteraly put an axe through the roof of that damn thing...

Yeahh, i know, im overreacting but i think i have the right to...;) so here it comes..

My frustration started when i got my lift, everything was fine untill my u joints went .... ... so i got a T case lowering kit, lowered it 1.25", changed ujoints ... everything was fine, for a month and a half.. then it started again... .. spoke to few people here at Naxja(THANKS!) and they pointed me towards Tom Woods, to read his ds 101 page. read that, decided to get 4* shims. Got these installed last week, and the damn thing vibrates more than before.sounds like a low frequency BASS..... any ideas? my pinion is exactly pointed at the Tcase output yoke. The driveshaft is exactly pointed-looks identical as the one on TW101 page. Any ideas? should i remove my Tcase lowering kit? Should i change the ujoints that came with it? are these the hard core type, nipples in the middle of the cap, would any other ones fit? Please help, because im ready to put new ujoints and sell it so someone can cope with it. I dont want to do that.
its a 98 with auto and 8.25" rear, i have 31s, teraflex 4" kit
 
Do you have an SYE and CV drive shaft? If not, your rear pinion should not be pointed at the t-case. They should have opposite angles.

Greg
 
MontanaXJ said:
Do you have an SYE and CV drive shaft? If not, your rear pinion should not be pointed at the t-case. They should have opposite angles.

Greg
Click to expand...
Yes, and No.

For a non-CV driveshaft your pinion and transfer case yoke angles should be equal and opposite.
Your pinion yoke should be pointed UP (towards the T-case) the same number of degrees ABOVE horizontal that your T-case yoke is BELOW horizontal.
Since he has lowered his t-case, he has increased the angle below. He would therefore need to increase the pinion yoke angle to match.
I'm not sure whether a 4 degree shim does that or provides too much to where, as you correctly stated, it is pointing at the T-case and exceeding rather than matching the angle.

If you have a slip yoke DS, is it possible that you have pulled your yoke out and reinserted it out of phase?
 
Also what yoke are you running? Is the the stock slip yoke, if not consider the YJ yoke or extended yoke from Rusty's of whoever. Also look into the Tom Woods offset Ujoints.

I agree you should not have added a 4 degree shim, maybe a 2 degree. I understand why you would want to point the pinion a bit higher since you did a tcase drop. For that the angle of the rear output is pointed down slightly.
 
Hey guys, im sorry i didnt write that thing carefully enough... im running a heavy duty kit (he sells two, thinking, heh.. more money=better:p)from Tom Woods that includes:
AA SYE kit...
Tom Woods CV shaft
 
FYI
When I put my RE 5.5 lift in, I bought the A/A SYE and TW driveshaft and it was totaly out of balance. I brought it to a local driveshaft shop and the guy said "Tom who?". He checked it and re balanced it. I haven't had a problem yet. This could be your problem. Also, I didn't put any shims on mine. I read that it is better to have the pinion yoke pointing 1* below the T/C output shaft because under load, the axle will rotate the pinion yoke upward slightly.
 
Purple said:
... litteraly put an axe through the roof of that damn thing...
Click to expand...

chop the top!!!!!! take pix with a EOS digi Rebel...

take out the t-case drop if you have a tail shaft adaptor (I literaly just finished installing 2 of them 20 minutes ago) and check to see what that does for you

-Ranger
 
Purple said:
Hey guys, im sorry i didnt write that thing carefully enough... im running a heavy duty kit (he sells two, thinking, heh.. more money=better:p)from Tom Woods that includes:
AA SYE kit...
Tom Woods CV shaft
Click to expand...


Remove the drop, that is the whole point about the SYE. Keep the 4 degree shim for now and see what happens.
 
After installing 3" lift, 31s, HD sye, and dual cardan shaft set up perfect, I still had some pretty considerabel vibes above 70 mph. I took out the front driveshaft and all is well.

The driveshaft will be trail only until I can make/buy some adjustable control arms to adjust my FRONT pinion angle.

Give it a shot.
 
I'm running about 7" of lift and I have virtually no vibes......WITHOUT an sye.
I have RE 1462 leaves and RE 1.25" shackles on top of a D35 (for now) and I use a 1" TC drop. The secret was using a YJ slip yoke and a slightly longer shaft. I measured the angles on both yokes and without any shims there is less than .5 degrees difference.



Now those cheap ass black steelies have been bent since new out of the box, and they are starting to loosen my fillings, but thats another story.
 
hey someone clue me in on this yj slip yoke conversion i keep hearing about. are you all just pulling them from old yj's in the parts yard or are you buying yj specific aftermarket sy from someone. whats the average cost for this mod. what are you getting (parts wise)...i have 4.5 inches on a 2wd 2000 with a tranny drop and after i install the 4wd this weekend i will quickly be finding out about vibes i presume. so if i can afford a quick swap to an yj sy i'll do it before i do the tranny /t-case install while i have everything laying on the rack in the garage...thanx...
Maier
 
CSK, Autozone, Napa, local driveshaft shop, or nearest bone yard....take your pick. Be sure to buy new u-joints for both ends (you have to take them apart anyways) when you put on the new slip yoke.


I was at 5" lift before and wasnt confortable with the amount of engagment I had and my stock shaft had a bit of rock rash so i went to local DS shop and had them make me 1.5" extended shaft :) and got my Spicer YJ yoke from them
 
C-ROK said:
If you have a slip yoke DS, is it possible that you have pulled your yoke out and reinserted it out of phase?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by this? Is there a certain way it has to go in? Mine has been out several times and ever since I put my 44 in I have had vibe issues. I did have a problem with axle shaft bearings and got those taken care of, it went away for a minuite but was right back. By the way this is on deceleration. Could this be my problem? Or am I just crazy? If it is out of phase how can I tell?

Sorry to kinda hijack the thread but I thought this all might relate to his problem.

Ray
'97 XJ
RE6030 w/ Revolvers and swapped in D44
 
jpnjason said:
I'm running about 7" of lift and I have virtually no vibes......WITHOUT an sye.
I have RE 1462 leaves and RE 1.25" shackles on top of a D35 (for now) and I use a 1" TC drop. The secret was using a YJ slip yoke and a slightly longer shaft. I measured the angles on both yokes and without any shims there is less than .5 degrees difference.



Now those cheap ass black steelies have been bent since new out of the box, and they are starting to loosen my fillings, but thats another story.
Click to expand...


At one time had the same setup, and the same results. :thumbup:
 
outlawjeep said:
What do you mean by this? Is there a certain way it has to go in? If it is out of phase how can I tell?
Click to expand...
You can pull it apart and slip it back together as many times as you want so long as you put it back together correctly.
The yokes on each end of the shaft should be 90 degree out of phase with each other.
 
weapon said:
ok im confused. If both yokes are welded to the driveshaft how can you possibly make it out of phase?
Click to expand...
I would say you're not talking about a slip yoke driveshaft then.

But to answer your question; you twist under torque load like I've done to mine many times :D
 
XJ_Ranger: that digi rebel was sold:p for 560$ im buying a 350D which is this years model.
I will be splitting my TC this friday.
 
C-ROK said:
You can pull it apart and slip it back together as many times as you want so long as you put it back together correctly.
The yokes on each end of the shaft should be 90 degree out of phase with each other.
Click to expand...
Aren't you talking about the slip JOINT on a double cardan driveshaft? I think you're confusing people. If you're talking about a slip yoke driveshaft, you can pull the shaft from the transfer case and insert it any way and it doesn't matter. If you're talking about a double cardan driveshaft (often referred to as a CV driveshaft) then you are correct about needing the right phase.
 
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