Help with lockright... ratchets and bangs.

Alright, I know lockrights are supposed to make some noise, but mine is making A LOT of noise, and is not locking up properly. It worked great all day on Sunday going UP the trail, then coming back down when I did a lot of engine braking, it suddenly started unloading very noisily at random, basically a loud bang/pop and the rig would jerk a bit to the right (it's the driver's side coupler that seems to be unloading). After taking a break for lunch, we headed up another trail and as we were starting up, I noticed that when in 4wd, I could turn the wheel left and the locker would BANG and unlock... but not when I turned right. At this point, I was pissed, but not as pissed as I was when I realized that when I got to a point where I needed the locker, all it did was ratchet the driver's side wheel while the passenger side spun wildly.

Background and setup info: This is in a front wagoneer D44 with drive slugs and 5.13 gears. I'm running 32" tires right now because I can't afford the 35's I want to get, but both are the same diameter and pressure. I did the R&P setup myself, and my pattern is perfect and the backlash is at .007". The carrier is a new one, not used (unless it was hot tanked before I bought it).

What I've done: I tore it all down yesterday, removed the carrier, removed the lockright, inspected all the couplers and spacers and used the lockright installation manual as a reference to check the clearances they show in there. While I had it apart, I noticed that the driver's side clearance between the spacers and cross shaft was a little wider than the passenger side, so I added a very thin shim between the thrust washer (YES, the thrust washers are installed) and the coupler on that side, and now the clearances are with in .003". This is basically a brand new lockright, so all the ratchetting teeth are in good shape, it's not an old worn out lockright (if it was, I would just throw it away and buy a detroit). All the springs are in place and in good shape, no broken pins.

What the heck else could be going on here? I'm seriously at my wit's end with this thing, I was so furious last night after I put it all back together and it did the same thing as before that I just parked the rig and decided not to even touch it until this weekend, but it's just killing me, I've gotta know what's going on, because if I can't fix it I'm just going to bust out the CC and order a detroit.

Anybody got any ideas? Where should the "spacer to cross shaft" clearance measurement be taken... on the flat part of the cross shaft or the round part? Should I just take it apart and keep adding shims until it locks up and works properly? I've had someone suggest that maybe the axle housing is bent... how would I go about checking for that easily? This is a wagoneer D44 with RE brackets that I welded on myself, but I was very careful not to overheat things... Took it slow and swapped sides a lot. I sure hope it's not bent, that would be the worst possible scenario I think.

Your best bet it to contact their tech support:
http://www.powertrax.com/lockright.html
I had to contact them when I had some questions about a no slip and they were extremely helpful.

Just sent this post to them almost word for word (except for the detroit talk ), we'll see what they say.

curious, manual or auto tranny? nearly every complaint I've ever heard of auto lockers (lockright, detroit, etc) have come from people with manual trannies, and everyone with autos seem to be very pleased.

BrettM said:

curious, manual or auto tranny? nearly every complaint I've ever heard of auto lockers (lockright, detroit, etc) have come from people with manual trannies, and everyone with autos seem to be very pleased.

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I have the ol' Peugot 5 speed. I was thinking about that at first, but it really wouldn't explain why the locker doesn't even lock up... I can see banging and clunking when getting on and off the gas, but it just plain does not work at all.

not sure if my situation applies, but my no-slip was quite noisey for several miles (mostly on the street) until it got past the break-in stage. plus we are talking about two different models of lockers. i agree with calling tech support...

man, it sounds like you definitely know what you're talking about with the install and checking the clearances. I don't know that I can give you anymore advice than what you've already learned or read.

I went through the same thing with my lock right and no matter how many times I set it up......having setup at least 3 other ones in different vehicles....I just couldn't get it to work. It worked in my 8.25 for 1 1/2 years until I broke it....they sent me a new one....and that's the one that wouldn't work. The clearances were where they said they should be. There was just nothing I could do.

It did just as you described....it unloaded on one side and sent the rear of the vehicle to the right. This was all while going down the road straight! I don't even see how that is possible. Turns I can understand, but straight.

Anyway, their customer service over the phone was decent. The guy knew what he was talking about and he was very helpful.

I eventually gave up and put a ford 9" in and a spool. I was determined to never have to deal with crappy locker ratcheting problems EVER again....and that solved it. :laugh3:

i dont know what to think of spools, everyone says these are NOT meant for 80%DD 20%OFF Road, and then from out of nowhere a guy comes up with a spool... anyway, how is it on the road?

Purple said:

i dont know what to think of spools, everyone says these are NOT meant for 80%DD 20%OFF Road, and then from out of nowhere a guy comes up with a spool... anyway, how is it on the road?

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I think that you'd only want to run a spool up front if it's a trail only rig and you've got locking hubs.

He deals with the wheel scrub... try swapping the couplers from side to side. will it bang while under power in reverse? someone once had me install a used LR for them. he bought it from someone that said it worked great when taken out. long story short. I tried swaping it around and the problem followed to that side. so I knew it was a bad side coupler even though a basic inspection showed it was ok. Tossed in an EZ locker and all is well. if you look very closely at it you might see just a bit of rounding of the edges on the teeth.
another thing to check is if you have bent your rear housing. that can make a LB locker act funky also.

My story with my front lock right in my Dana 30 goes like this. Broke a u-joint on a local trail fixed it no big deal. Then went to Tellico, and Broke another U-joint, and the locker at the same time. Luckily I had my spider gears with me, and we swapped the locker out once we got back to camp. Point being they will fail when you least expect it. Since then I have upgraded to moly shafts, and more gear. BTW richmond gear sent me a new locker. Which I promptly sold to buy a detriot.



Patrick

Well, I thought I'd update this... never got a reply back from Richmond... :|

Anyway, I tore it apart again last night (swore it would be the final time, next time I pull the shafts and carrier it's going to be to install a detroit). Double checked all the clearances and swapped the couplers side-to-side. I took the springs down to the auto parts store and found some replacements that were stiffer and just a bit longer, installed those and put everything back together, and it works pretty good now. I hooked a tow strap up to my hitch and my brother's rig, had him hold the brakes while I dug holes in the driveway with all 4 wheels.

We'll see how long it lasts. It still makes some noise, but of course, that's normal for a lockright. If it breaks again, like I said, it's detroit time.

NotMatt said:

Well, I thought I'd update this... never got a reply back from Richmond... :|

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Why not call them? If a phone number is available (and it is) you should always choose that over email, especially since they are bound to have more questions for you.