ax-5 questions

How many different "types" of ax-5 trannys were there?

I have an 87 MJ with 2.5/AX-5/NP231. I got a tranny that was from a 95 YJ with 2.5/AX-5/NP231, so they're both 21 spline. I've been warned that certain ax-5's have different mating surfaces to the transfer case. If this is so when I look at my old and new trannys side by side, is there a way to adapt or swap parts, or should I just go ahead and find a matching transfer case? Also, what years separated what ax-5's were different?

Finally, I just put a new clutch in the 87. Will I be able to just bolt up the 95 trans to that clutch/flywheel??

Thanks in advance!

87 MJ
95 YJ
01 TJ

Well, for starters, why do you say "... so they're both 21 spline"? The 87 should be a 21-spline, but a 95 YJ should be a 23-spline. Have you verified, or are you guessing?

I have not heard anything about a difference in mounting. The YJ transfer cases used a different linkage, that mounted to the tranny rather than to the floor of the vehicle, but I don't think that affected the interface between the tranny and the transfer case.

No need to verify. ALL 4 cyl XJ, MJ, YJ, and TJ have 21 spline t-case inputs.


Pre-1990 4 cyl will have 21, 6 cyl manuals should have 21, some of the autos will be 21 or 23 spline.

1990 (or 1991) and newer the 4 cyl will have 21 spline and the 6 cyl will have 23 spline.

I just today bolted a YJ 231 to my MJ;s AX-4. No problems except the linkage...I just made my own shifter and totally did away with the linkage.

I had read that too. The tranny I got has all the hardware, so maybe I'll just keep the trans-mounted linkage instead of using the stock floor-mounted. 043500: any pictures of how you fabbed it up? Did you bolt your custom shifter to the floor?

YJ trans have the bolt pattern drilled a little different to clock the case up flatter to clear the center crossmember/skidplate. They will physically bolt together but the case will sit flatter w/ the YJ trans. Can cause some body clearance issues, but would be fine if you have the crossmember dropped and/or you don't mind "clearancing" the underbody.

No. My shifter is 'red-necked' if there ever was one BUT it is very functional and should never break and CAN'T bind at all.

I completely removed ALL the shift linkage for the T-case except for the tab on the side of the case that's attached to whatever shifts the case (not sure what the technical term for it is). This little piece is about 1/8"-3/16" thick and is about 1" wide by 3" long or so. On the old 207 case I pulled from the MJ this piece was pointed at the 7 o-clock position in 2 high. BUT the YJ piece was pointed at the 12 o;clock position in 2 high...and with the stock linkage I could not get them to line up no matter how much I adjusted even with the MJ piece on the case.

I just used the existing hole/bushing and then made a notch in it below the busing/hole and put another bolt through. I'm not sure what it's made of but I could not drill through it with the bits I had...they would not even make a mark on it. This is why I had to ake a notch in it.

For the shifter I just used a piece of flat steel...3/16" thick about 20" long. It comes straight up through the floor. It is bolted as described above. All the way upright is 2 high...one notch forward is 4 high, 2 is neutral, and 3 is 4 low. Simple...and NO binding ever because there's nothing to adjust.

I will say this...I had to make a notch in the tranny tunnel to allow 2 high to engage all the way and had to make it go a good bit forward to allow 4 low. BUT it's very easy to shift and I can easily reach it without having to stretch.
I intend to make a plate to go over where I cut the tranny tunnel so only the width needed for the shifter is there...right now it;s a pretty big hole.


I do intend to weld a piece of 1X2 rect tubing to the top of the flat steel to make a T-handle. I wish I had pics but I was kinda ticked off after fighting with the linkages for an hour so I just made this on a whim...but I like it.

My '88 MJ (4.0L) has a YJ AX-15 and YJ transfer case in it. That's the way I bought it. Whoever installed it kept the YJ transfer case shifter. Their high-tech solution was to cut out a big chunk of transmission tunnel and cover it with duct tape. They also had to cut off the upper end of the transfer case shift handle because in 2WD the knob and tip of the lever were apparently an interference fit with the dashboard. So now there is no knob at all, just the truncated lever. It works -- it shifts when I need to shift it, and has not caused any problems. But I want to put a mini console back in, and with the t-case shifter being in an entirely different location the stock shifter slot is going to be useless.

I've had the truck for 5 years and still haven't screwed up sufficient courage to remove the duct tape to see what sort of carnage they left underneath. Has to happen soon, though.