Changing brake pads on a 98 2wd

Canoman · Apr 23, 2005

I'm working on my brakes today, and I have the left front wheel off, and I've removed the two bolts that hold the calipers on, but I can't pull the caliper off of the rotor. Any tips?

Thanks.

Boatwrench · Apr 23, 2005

A couple, using a stout pry bar or screwdriver force the inner pad back into the caliper collapsing the piston. You will be working against hydraulic pressure so to relieve the pressure either:
a. Remove the master cylinder cap and cover the opening with a clean rag. This allows the fluid to flow back into the master cylinder and the rag keeps the fluid from erupting out of the top like a geyers onto your painted surfaces.
b. Crack open the bleed screw on the caliper, make sure you tighten it prior to releasing the tension on the pad/collapsing piston or you may introduce a small amount of air into the system.

Second, after releasing the pressure on the pads, if it is still stuck, use a dead blow hammer and give the caliper a whack. This will break free any rust that may have a grip. Then you can use same prybar to nudge the caliper off by using the hub as the fulcrum point.

Good luck,
Tom

Canoman · Apr 23, 2005

Got'em... Thanks.

prb24 · Apr 23, 2005

When you get it back together, don't forget to pump the brakes...

Canoman · Apr 23, 2005

So I took the rotors in to get them turned, and they were too thin to be turned. So now I have a new set of rotors and a new set of pads.

When I removed the stock rotors, there were some cheap washer type things that were on them to hold them in place. When I took them off, those clip/washer pieces broke. I couldn't get them to screw off. Do I need replacements for those, or can I just put the rotors on without them?

Thanks, in advance.

prb24 · Apr 23, 2005

Were they on the outboard side of the rotor? I don't remember seeing any on mine (I have a '98 too, but 4WD).

They are probably just there to hold the rotor in place when you go to put everything back together.

I wouldn't think that you need them, seeing as how the wheel/lug nuts are going to sandwich everything in place.

Boatwrench · Apr 23, 2005

Those are keepers to hold the rotor on during assembly at the factory, I take them off and toss them. Once you put the calipers on no need for them and the wheel will hold the rotor true when it's on.

While assembling the brakes place a lug nut on finger tight to keep the rotor fom slipping off or moving about while you place the caliper on the knuckle.

Tom

Canoman · Apr 23, 2005

Thanks, Tom. You've been quite helpful.

Canoman · Apr 23, 2005

prb24 said:
When you get it back together, don't forget to pump the brakes...

prb24,

Can I just pump the brakes, or do I need to bleed them? Not sure if I've got all the tools to bleed them. I should really probably change out the brake fluid, but I've never done that before. Seems kind of intimidating. I don't have the tool that's mentioned on go.jeep-xj.info

Boatwrench · Apr 23, 2005

Just pump the pedal with the engine running before moving the Jeep, you'll be fine...no need to bleed the brakes unless you cracked open the system by loosening a line or bleeder screw which may introduce air into the hydraulic system. The reason you need to pump the pedal is the gap between the pads and the rotor surface are too great to be taken up with one depression of the pedal while operating. The pumping loads fluid into the caliper piston chamber.

If the fluid in the master looks dirty and grungy you could flush it. It is a post/thread of its' own though.

On rear brakes there are springs that return the brake shoes to the at rest or disengaged position.

Disc brakes use three things to return the pads to the at rest position.
1. Releasing the brake pedal reduces fluid pressure from the back of the piston in the caliper.
2. The caliper dust seal and piston hydraulic seal stretch when the brakes are applied, with the pedal released they return to their normal position and pull the pads away from the rotor.
3. Rotor run-out. The rotor have a ever so slight natural warp to them and as they spin the high points push the pads away from the rotor.

Tom

prb24 · Apr 23, 2005

Boatwrench said:
Just pump the pedal with the engine running before moving the Jeep, you'll be fine...no need to bleed the brakes unless you cracked open the system by loosening a line or bleeder screw which may introduce air into the hydraulic system. The reason you need to pump the pedal is the gap between the pads and the rotor surface are too great to be taken up with one depression of the pedal while operating. The pumping loads fluid into the caliper piston chamber.

If the fluid in the master looks dirty and grungy you could flush it. It is a post/thread of its' own though.

On rear brakes there are springs that return the brake shoes to the at rest or disengaged position.

Disc brakes use three things to return the pads to the at rest position.
1. Releasing the brake pedal reduces fluid pressure from the back of the piston in the caliper.
2. The caliper dust seal and piston hydraulic seal stretch when the brakes are applied, with the pedal released they return to their normal position and pull the pads away from the rotor.
3. Rotor run-out. The rotor have a ever so slight natural warp to them and as they spin the high points push the pads away from the rotor.

Tom

Yeah, what Boatwrench said...I guess I need to learn how to type faster. Halfway through typing almost the same thing, I got the email notification that he beat me to it. Do a search on bleeding the brakes, you won't need any special tools to do it...

Changing brake pads on a 98 2wd

Canoman

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Boatwrench

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Canoman

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prb24

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Canoman

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prb24

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Boatwrench

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Canoman

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