need help, two quick questions!

this is on a 1986 2.5 4 speed
n the engine compartment, on top of the passenger side wheel well, there is a box with that grounds to the wheel well and it has a relay that is plugged into it, what is that relay for and what is the name of what that box that the relay plugs into?

also on the leftside/driverside of the bell housing there is a sensor with two wires going into it ,is this the cks crankshaft position sensor?

#2 -- Yes, that's the CPS

#1 -- Relay? Gotta look at an '86, but what I remember being where you describe is the ignition module and the coil.

well i got the new cps and its in, but i still have the same symptoms, i turn the key and it just cranks and cranks i push the gas and i get first a poof out of the intake with some flames popin out of throttle body, and a boom out of the tail pipe follows right after.

i pulled the distibuter one time without knowing that the timing was unadjustable from the distributer, so i think its off, like the rotor points to 3 when its firing at 1 or something, is that a possibllity or could i pull the distributer and and turn the engine and its still the same? how do i fix if so?

xXJx said:

well i got the new cps and its in, but i still have the same symptoms, i turn the key and it just cranks and cranks i push the gas and i get first a poof out of the intake with some flames popin out of throttle body, and a boom out of the tail pipe follows right after.

i pulled the distibuter one time without knowing that the timing was unadjustable from the distributer, so i think its off, like the rotor points to 3 when its firing at 1 or something, is that a possibllity or could i pull the distributer and and turn the engine and its still the same? how do i fix if so?

Click to expand...

I think you've just answered your own question. The distributor must be installed right in order to start, and no matter how well the computer adjusts the running timing, it won't help if the rotor is pointing to the wrong cylinder.

You'll need to turn the engine to TDC, making sure that it's compression TDC, not exhaust TDC for cylinder one. Then, you'll need to turn the distributor to a position that will point the rotor to terminal one AFTER it has rotated slightly, owing to the cut of the drive gears, and you'll need to use a screwdriver to turn the oil-pump gear slot at the bottom of the distributor hole so that the tip of the distributor shaft will drop into it correctly. This may take a couple of tries, because you'll have to guess at how much to offset the shaft before you push it down. The oil pump slot will have to be closer to the starting position of the shaft than the final position, because the shaft will engage with it, and then rotate it as the helical gear turns on the way down. Be patient. There's only one position that is actually right.