hey body and paint guys

About a year ago I painted my xj, my first time. I used a acrylic enamel. My problem is it didn't bond to well to the primer (I can scrape it off with my finger nail) I used spray cans from the local parts store. I'm getting ready to strip it and try again. I was wondering what primer will work the best with the acrylic enamel.
Thanks Chadc

Disclaimer -- I am NOT a body and paint man. But I have played with cars for a long time. First, did you get the primer from the auto paint store with the finish paint, or did you use Dupli-Color from Wal-Mart? I've bought auto paint packaged in spray bombs from an auto paint store, and they also sell what they call an "etching" primer that's supposed to give better adhesion.

Second, how muc time eleapsed between priming and finish paint? I'm not sure about this, but I think after primer sits for awhile you need to shoot a light coat of fresh primer to get good adhesion. Also, before applying the finish coat dod you wipe the primer down with Prep-Sol? This removes any dust, dirt, oily residue ar pretty much anything that would interfer in the paint bond.

Hope this helps.

First off, most of the rattle cans are acrylic lacquer not acrylic enamel. As for adhesion, you really shouldn't have a problem either way unless your prep work was contaminated. You didn't wipe it down with turpentine or regular paint thinner before painting did you. Both are a no no! If you have to wipe it down, you need to use lacquer thinner or reducer, but beware they will also take off the primer.

Tom Houston
Loveland, Colorado

The promer was spray can, I sprayed the top coat through a gun. I sprayed the top coat right after the primer had dried, probably half hour or so. I didn't wipe it with reducer or thinner. I didn't THINK it would be necessary because I sprayed the top coat so soon after priming it.
Oh no, not another learning experience.
Chadc

My best advice:
Sand it all back off,down to the factory paint. Repair any problem areas like dents dings,etc. Go out and buy a good automotive grade primer that uses a catylist for curing,preferably the same brand as the paint that you will be using. Spray the whole vehicle like you would do a regular paint job. Let it dry overnight. Go back and scuff out any runs,trash, or dry spray you may have gotten in it. If you go all the way through the primer,spray over the bare areas with another light coat of primer. This will do two things: 1)It will give your paint a good surface to bond to. 2)It will seal the underlying factory paint from your new paint and will help avoid blistering of the new coat. After the you are happy with the primer coat,you are ready to start laying down the color. If the primer has just been sprayed over those bare areas that were mentioned before,be sure to allow enough "flash" time before you start spraying (usually 15-30 minutes-more specifics will be on the can,or in the data sheets). If you're using base/clear (highly recomended,BTW),lay down a light coat of base first. Don't try and "one coat" it. All you'll wind up doing is causing solvent pop,which resemble air bubbles in the surface. Let the paint flash,then lay down a second,heavier coat,but again,don't over do it. If you have enough coverage,and are happy with the color,let it flash. If you don't have enough coverage,one last coat should be plenty! Follow the manufacturer's instructions on flash times before the clear coat is applied. If you rush it here,you may as well have rattle-canned it Same applies with the clear. One light coat,followed with a second heavier coat,and if needed,a third coat about the same as the second coat. If you want some in depth instructions on the perfect paint job,or proper paint gun setup,click on the link below. Good luck with it! :thumbup:
http://southernpolyurethanes.com/

epoxy

You might want to get ahold of simonsxj here on the forum. He was trying to get interest in an epoxy paint that required very little prep work. Simon are you out there?