traction bar

Been looking at ideas for a traction bar for the xj. Anybody have any pics or thoughts of anything other than the typical ladder bar? A 3 link type with the leaves? Need to do something. Thanks. DAve

What's wrong with the typical ladder bar? They work perfectly!

traction

nothing appears to be wrong with the traction bar. I was wondering if anybody else had other ideas before I build mine. Dave

I don't have any fantastic ideas or specific examples, but, I would like to second the notion that you "have to do something". I've seen too many parts explode when the axle starts to wrap up and hop around.
The best designs I have seen for traction bars are when they are run between the top of the rear diff and the t-case crossmember.
Build the rear mount as high as needed to keep the bar as horizontal as possible so it does not limit suspension travel. Also, the longer the traction bar is, the larger it's arc of travel, and so the less it binds in its travel. Just remember to beef the stock crossmember bolts if you still use them!

The traction bars that we're all using are attached in two places (vertically) on the housing, and one place on the frame/crossmember, using a combination of shackle/JJ/heims to allow movement of the front of the bar in every direction but up and down. There is no binding of the suspension so articulation is unaffected. Most traction bars of this design are also able to do double duty helping to protect the driveline from rock damage.

A single bar going from the top of the pumpkin to a crossmember will help, but will not stop spring wrap. The bottom of the pumkin can still pivot as the spring wraps into an S shape, so while the single arm resists wrap to some degree, it won't stop it. You can add multiple links, but the front half of the leaf springs are already links, so that won't work either. You can build a four link, and put shackles at both ends of the leaf springs, but that adds more weight, so if you have a four link you might as well use coils or quarter eliptics.

Rancho makes a kicker shock setup, which I ran for awhile, which resists wrap but won't stop it. There's also a company that makes a traction bar that runs from the top of the leaf spring plate to the frame by the front spring hanger, with a very stiff set of springs in the bar that allows for articulation. Again, this will resist wrap but won't stop it.

To allow the springs to work freely like we need them to, and to stop spring wrap altogether, the ladder bar with a hinged joint at the front is just what works. Hope this info helps........have fun building.

Has anyone seen this from JC whitney?

"Prevents spring wind-up and possible breakage during acceleration over uneven terrain or while climbing steep grades with a heavy load. Eliminates spring/shock damage caused by sudden axle drop. Heavy-duty steel. Easy bolt-on installation. Some drilling required. Bronco II requires welding. Includes 2 bars with long-life urethane bushings, hardware, mounts and instructions. For rear axle only."

It says it comes with 2 bars, I only see one.

Spring Wrap?

You know it's interesting you guys are talking about this. I'm new to XJ's....but just spent 2 years sorting out a spring over on a Samurai...which has been sold. The spring wrap problem was major on that vehicle, and I was wondering why I didn't hear/read anyone talking about a spring wrap problem with the Spring Over rear of the XJ?? So, how much lift do you need to provoke this problem? And is there no spring wrap with the stock set up?? I ate up 2 sets of rear springs before finally putting on Wrangler 6 leaf packs, and an AntiWrap bar from Spidertrax (spidertrax.com I think) that worked very well, and was very simple. It was designed by a suspension engineer, so I trusted him, plus I do know the guy too. You might want to check out that design. So the XJ solution is a standard ladder bar? Seem to work well?
Thanks,

Come awn guys, just a little research here. This topic has come up at least 4 times in less than a month here.

I posted this one on the first thread I saw. Maybe some pictures will help, they always help me. Nutter's article

That being said. I've been going through traction bar bending issues. My latest one was/is made out of 1.5" .25" wall square tubing. The y design simply does not work for me. I am constantly bending it at the intersection. I don't want to lose the ground clearance of making it a full v so I am forcing myself into my rear linked suspension. I've been putting it off for as long as possible, but I can't resist it any more. This is going to get ugly.

Sean

That JC Whitney part is exactly what won't work. That type of thing, and solid front mount ladder bars, work well on the street but don't work at all on 4x4 rigs because they don't let the suspension work freely and so they limit articulation.

What works is a single ladder bar type arm that has a pivoting mount on the frame side. A number of companies make them, like Sam's Off Road, and many of us have made our own.

How about a pinoin yoke/pumpkin skid plate and anti spring wrap in one package

http://www.nthdegreemobility.com/stinger.htm

OneTonXJ said:

That being said. I've been going through traction bar bending issues. My latest one was/is made out of 1.5" .25" wall square tubing. The y design simply does not work for me. I am constantly bending it at the intersection. I don't want to lose the ground clearance of making it a full v so I am forcing myself into my rear linked suspension. I've been putting it off for as long as possible, but I can't resist it any more. This is going to get ugly.

Sean

Click to expand...

I bent my first traction bar like you're doing, so I made another in a V, both were made from square tubing. My new one is also a V, but it's made from round DOM tubing, and hasn't bent.

You have long arms, why are you so concerned about ground clearance?