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E350 master cylinder swap help

sarvermr

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Little Rock, AR
i'm trying to get my D44/9" swap completed. when i got my brakes hooked up the pedal goes to the floor before i get any brakes. and yes, they are bleed properly. i bought a E350 MC but i can't figure out how to get it to work. the stock XJ MC has a rod coming out of the piston that goes into the booster. the E350 does not have this rod.

stock looks like this:

cherokee-mas-cyl.jpg


E350 looks like this:

222.jpg


what do i use for for the rod looking thing? i can't pull the one off the stock MC and even if i could its the wrong diameter for the E350 MC.

i need help asap. i want to go to hot springs this weekend.

thanks, matthew
 
sarvermr said:
i'm trying to get my D44/9" swap completed. when i got my brakes hooked up the pedal goes to the floor before i get any brakes. and yes, they are bleed properly. i bought a E350 MC but i can't figure out how to get it to work. the stock XJ MC has a rod coming out of the piston that goes into the booster. the E350 does not have this rod.

stock looks like this:

cherokee-mas-cyl.jpg


E350 looks like this:

222.jpg


what do i use for for the rod looking thing? i can't pull the one off the stock MC and even if i could its the wrong diameter for the E350 MC.

i need help asap. i want to go to hot springs this weekend.

thanks, matthew

i cant help you to make the E350 mc work - but i can tell you why your OEM MC goes to the floor -

the cylenders and pistions are 2wice as big! your puny stock MC cant move teh fluid....
 
XJ_ranger said:
i cant help you to make the E350 mc work - but i can tell you why your OEM MC goes to the floor -

the cylenders and pistions are 2wice as big! your puny stock MC cant move teh fluid....



exactly.

hence the need for the E350 master cylinder.

anyone got any good info?

matthew
 
XJ_ranger said:
i cant help you to make the E350 mc work - but i can tell you why your OEM MC goes to the floor -

the cylenders and pistions are 2wice as big! your puny stock MC cant move teh fluid....


Guess again ... the pistons in the calipers (and even wheel cylinders for the drum fans) only move a very short distance. With disc brakes the caliper pistons usually move less than 0.010" (unless you have severely warped rotors). The volume is area * travel distance (A=PIr*r*0.010, twice, left and right) for each circuit (or multiply it by four if running single circuit).

Wheel cylinders in drum brakes consume a little more fluid volume, because they have return springs. Again if you keep the shoes adjusted the actual volume consumed in piston travel is minimal (something an attentive XJ owner should do, considering the need for stopping power with large diameter tires).

The master cylinder drive rod may be the wrong length (looks to be missing), the flex hoses may be shot and expanding under the pressure, the MC may only have one of the two tandem circuit seals wetted and seating, or the combination valve may be stuck.

Do you have clean fluid bleeding to the rear caliper/wheel cylinder when you pump the pedal?

P.S. I believe you will need a drive rod.
 
Ed A. Stevens said:
Guess again ... the pistons in the calipers (and even wheel cylinders for the drum fans) only move a very short distance. With disc brakes the caliper pistons usually move less than 0.010" (unless you have severely warped rotors). The volume is area * travel distance (A=PIr*r*0.010, twice, left and right) for each circuit (or multiply it by four if running single circuit).

Wheel cylinders in drum brakes consume a little more fluid volume, because they have return springs. Again if you keep the shoes adjusted the actual volume consumed in piston travel is minimal (something an attentive XJ owner should do, considering the need for stopping power with large diameter tires).

The master cylinder drive rod may be the wrong length (looks to be missing), the flex hoses may be shot and expanding under the pressure, the MC may only have one of the two tandem circuit seals wetted and seating, or the combination valve may be stuck.

Do you have clean fluid bleeding to the rear caliper/wheel cylinder when you pump the pedal?

P.S. I believe you will need a drive rod.

interesting...

though - going from a small one - which your MC was designed to move the piston we'll say only 0.005" and then putting in a system that requires .010" would create a huge difference at least in my mind....

where is my logic wrong?

are all pistons pretty much the same then?

does the size of the piston have anything to do with how much fluid it requires to be moved? It seems to me that you would have to fill a gap behind the piston with hydraulic (brake) fluid, and the larger the piston is, the more fluid needs to be there...

pi*r^2 gets bigger real quick...

i am working on my d44/ford 9" swap and was planning on swaping MC's to solve the problem that i thought i was going to have (that and get rid of ABS), but i might not need to?

sorry to hijack - but thanks for any answers...
 
im Guessing you have a 96+ model by the pic of your master cylinder. In that case you have the dual diaghram booster. you have 2 options that i know of, there may be more.

1. swap to an older single diagrahm booster, the rod will then be long enoughto push on the E350 MC. this is the easiest but not the best for braking as you will lose pressure from the single diagrahm.

2. This involves some custom parts, the first is to lengthen the rod by using something similiar to a shock extender that is male on one end and female on the other, the other thing you can do (which i did but have not installed it yet) is to use a set screw and a coupler nut.

The other piece you need is a custom Steel or aluminum piece to make up the difference in the hole size and so you can seal the Booster. the single diagrahm boosters are sealed by them selfs but the dual booster needs a gasket which is on the MC to seal. If you make a piece that is large enough to cover all the hole in the booster and thick enough that i won't bend, it should be able to be siliconed on to be air tight, and then siliconed to the master cylinder to make the whole assembly air tight. however i would recommend that you not silicone the MC until the rod is adjusted to the corect lenght.

This is what i was going to do but have yet to accomplish it.

**Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer**

I think it will work but am not sure. May cause hair loss. I am not responsible if you get your self killed by bad brakes or faulty upgrades, as a matter of fact im not responsible at all for this idea or any others you may get from this post. Do not take orally. It SHOULD work on paper and should never be done on any vehicle ever. Shake well, refrigerate after opening. This modification is intended for decoration only and should never be done on a vehicle that will ever be driven.

**Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer** **Disclaimer**

Dingo
 
XJ_ranger said:
interesting...

though - going from a small one - which your MC was designed to move the piston we'll say only 0.005" and then putting in a system that requires .010" would create a huge difference at least in my mind....

where is my logic wrong?

are all pistons pretty much the same then?

does the size of the piston have anything to do with how much fluid it requires to be moved? It seems to me that you would have to fill a gap behind the piston with hydraulic (brake) fluid, and the larger the piston is, the more fluid needs to be there...

pi*r^2 gets bigger real quick...

i am working on my d44/ford 9" swap and was planning on swaping MC's to solve the problem that i thought i was going to have (that and get rid of ABS), but i might not need to?

sorry to hijack - but thanks for any answers...



The logic is hard for me to follow, but I'll try.

Both D30 and D44 (and D60) disc brakes only need about 0.010" of piston travel, from rest position to full pad contact. The only difference is piston bore area and how it relates to the consumed volume of fluid. larger bore caliper pistons (or multiple piston calipers) have a greater net pressure area and need more fluid to fill the consumed volume (we agree, I think).

The issue is one of relative volume.

The stock MC volume is ~1" diameter (IIRC) with over an inch of stroke for each circuit (0.785 cu in volume), and the stock caliper piston is ~2" diameter with 0.010" stroke (0.063 cu in, for two calipers). The reserve volume in the MC is much greater than the consumed volume in the caliper piston bore (in this example a 1,250% reserve capacity of MC volume).

Add a caliper with a net 4" diameter bore (a whopping 4x increase in applied force) and the consumed volume increases to 0.251 cu in, leaving the MC with only a 200% reserve capacity. This is a little extreme (an extremely large caliper area) but it reflects the factors of scale.

In reality, the tandem MC does not apply pressure to either circuit unless both circuits are pressurized or one of the pistons runs out of travel (leaving the worst case circuit to determine the travel consumption). Rear wheel cylinders are usually the more critical volume consideration. The available working piston travel of both circuits in the MC is usually compromised, sometimes as much a 50%, by the volume consumed by poorly arc'd and adjusted rear circuit brake shoes (one reason why most competition vehicles use two MC's).

Keeping all this in mind it's a wise decision to keep the reserve volume in the MC somewhat above 400% of the expected consumption of the rear wheel cylinders (do the math for either front or rear circuits to be safe). There is actually a minimum travel/volume after circuit failure that needs to be considered when using a tandem MC (but I have never read published testing data). This reserve volume also helps to add safety for line flex and expansion and compression of trapped air.

FWIW, the E350 MC is (IIRC) and 1.25" bore, with a swept volume of 1.277 cu in through a 1" stroke.
 
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