ZJ proportioning valve.

Ok, if i was to swap the proportioning valve from the ZJ into my 98 XJ Along with the rear discs, i was wondering Will this throw a brake light on the dash? Or do the connectors swap around from the XJ prop to the ZJ prop, or are they same in the later years?

Also, When you pull the Prop valve, is brake fluid going to have to be drained first, or is it going to leak everywhere, im guessing the later.

What about installing an aftermarket prop valve? Or removeing the o ring inside of the valve?

Whitetail said:

Ok, if i was to swap the proportioning valve from the ZJ into my 98 XJ Along with the rear discs, i was wondering Will this throw a brake light on the dash? Or do the connectors swap around from the XJ prop to the ZJ prop, or are they same in the later years?

Also, When you pull the Prop valve, is brake fluid going to have to be drained first, or is it going to leak everywhere, im guessing the later.

What about installing an aftermarket prop valve? Or removing the o ring inside of the valve?

Click to expand...

I did the brake mod including replacement of the prop valve. The electrical connectors of the two valves are different, I spliced the ZJ connector to match it to the valve.
The light never came on, everything worked as it should. I first drained the reservoir, I figured it was a good time to do a fluid change, then disconnected the lines. I laid a garbage bag below the valve and paper towels on the bag to keep the fluid from making a mess and removing paint all over.
I used a wrench made for brake line nuts. Open end wrenches don't have enough surface and can damage the nuts.
http://www.members.cox.net/nraok2/
I hope you can find something useful there.

You should be just be able to screw your switch into the ZJ valve. You have to swap a port across as well if you dont have ABS like all ZJ's that had rear discs. See my site for the info if you need it.

www.go.jeep-xj.info

There shouldn't be too much brake fluid if you do it without draining the master cylinder. You need to push the brake pedal all the way to the floor and lock it in place with some wood - it blocks the valve in the M/C off. You'd still get some dripping, but not much, and it would mean that you wouldn't have to bench bleed the master, just do a normal bleed when you're done.