Rear diff rubber plug...dumb question

rumblebelly · Apr 8, 2005

I'm used to the old tapped metal plugs but my new XJ has a rubber plug. The design seems like a strange concept since it seems to seep a little.

To check the fluid, should I just pry if off with a screw driver?

Ivan · Apr 8, 2005

That's pretty much it... Just becareful not to tear it, but it comes out pretty easy....

Timber · Apr 8, 2005

Like Ivan wrote, that's the drill. I'm waiting to see if my brother-in-law will weld a nut in there so I can have a threaded fill plug. That's the cheapest/easiest solution I have heard of.

89xj · Apr 8, 2005

Timber said:
Like Ivan wrote, that's the drill. I'm waiting to see if my brother-in-law will weld a nut in there so I can have a threaded fill plug. That's the cheapest/easiest solution I have heard of.

how about tapping the hole and putting a threaded plug in. seems easier than welding a nut in there.

Timber · Apr 9, 2005

I thought about that, but forgot to check the thickness of that area of the cover the last time I changed the oil so I'm no help there right now.

JohnX · Apr 9, 2005

You would be best off to weld in a nut...this would RAISE the fluid capacity. Just tapping it out would lower the capacity(very little though).

Just my two bits worth.

John

nhrocker · Apr 9, 2005

Well if you have a threaded plug that doesn't seep, you could always just have your rear end sitting high when you fill and get a little extra in there, not that you would want or need too much....

mudpuddle · Apr 9, 2005

Let's just drill and tap a drain plug while we're at it,
forget about scrapin' silicone, make it nice.

Wayne Sihler · Apr 9, 2005

Clean the dirt and grit off the plug and in the grouve that is in the plug.Wipe run off oil off and keep oil level below opening 1/2". You will keep your rear clean and dry.
Wayne

Matthew Currie · Apr 9, 2005

The cover is too thin to get a good tapered hole tapped. You'll need to add thickness for it not to leak. A big washer would work, or just building up a bead with a welder, if you're careful. I just added thickness with a mig welder, reamed it and tapped it.

94XJ4x4 · Apr 10, 2005

if you're going to be welding anyway why not just weld a nut on and be done with it... seems like the simplest solution to me, and quicker then trying to add material then drill and tap threads into it. Just make sure they are decent welds so the thing doesnt snap off or leak.

Timber · Apr 10, 2005

94XJ4x4 said:
if you're going to be welding anyway why not just weld a nut on and be done with it... seems like the simplest solution to me, and quicker then trying to add material then drill and tap threads into it. Just make sure they are decent welds so the thing doesnt snap off or leak.

Third post?

94XJ4x4 · Apr 10, 2005

yeah... third post... Matthew Currie mentioned welding on a big washer or adding material with a welder so that you could drill and tap for a screw-in plug and i was wondering why, when if you are going to be welding anyway whynot just weld on a nut to save time.

Timber · Apr 10, 2005

94XJ4x4 said:
yeah... third post... Matthew Currie mentioned welding on a big washer or adding material with a welder so that you could drill and tap for a screw-in plug and i was wondering why, when if you are going to be welding anyway whynot just weld on a nut to save time.

No. I meant that I already mentioned welding in a nut in the third post of this thread.

Matthew Currie · Apr 10, 2005

94XJ4x4 said:
yeah... third post... Matthew Currie mentioned welding on a big washer or adding material with a welder so that you could drill and tap for a screw-in plug and i was wondering why, when if you are going to be welding anyway whynot just weld on a nut to save time.

A nut would work fine if you want to use the threads of the nut and put in a bolt with a washer for sealing, but if you want to use a tapered pipe plug you'll have to tap it out anyway, and those new threads may not seal very well unless they're pitched the same as those of the nut, so I figured it was easier just to weld, ream and tap.

Timber · Apr 10, 2005

Matthew Currie said:
A nut would work fine if you want to use the threads of the nut and put in a bolt with a washer for sealing, but if you want to use a tapered pipe plug you'll have to tap it out anyway, and those new threads may not seal very well unless they're pitched the same as those of the nut, so I figured it was easier just to weld, ream and tap.

Okay, I was responding to him, too. Why would one want to use a tapered pipe plug? Please understand, I don't have any real fabrication knowledge, and I'm not being a smart ass about it. I really just don't know.

Matthew Currie · Apr 10, 2005

Timber said:
Okay, I was responding to him, too. Why would one want to use a tapered pipe plug? Please understand, I don't have any real fabrication knowledge, and I'm not being a smart ass about it. I really just don't know.

A tapered pipe plug will seal without a gasket. Of course you can use anything, but I happened to have the correct taps, a plug and a welder handy.

Timber · Apr 10, 2005

Matthew Currie said:
A tapered pipe plug will seal without a gasket. Of course you can use anything, but I happened to have the correct taps, a plug and a welder handy.

Where can you get them?

eric91xj · Apr 10, 2005

after all this talk of welding on the diff cover no one has mentioned what kind of metal the cover is made of. while changing my fluid the other day i cracked my cover while tightening down the bolts i mean a loud pop and about a 3 inch long crack. Steel won't crack like that, so if the cover is aluminum or magnesium or what ever else i'd look into that first.

eric

Matthew Currie · Apr 10, 2005

eric91xj said:
after all this talk of welding on the diff cover no one has mentioned what kind of metal the cover is made of. while changing my fluid the other day i cracked my cover while tightening down the bolts i mean a loud pop and about a 3 inch long crack. Steel won't crack like that, so if the cover is aluminum or magnesium or what ever else i'd look into that first.

eric

The stock covers are steel, at least on the D35 and the Chrysler 8 1/4. If you have any doubts about your own just check with a magnet. Answering also one above, standard pipe fittings are tapered, available anywhere pipe fittings are sold, such as hardware stores, etc. You can probably get the tap there too, but it may not be cost effective if that's all you're getting it for. I happen to have all that stuff on hand, and felt like playing with a diff cover that I had off anyway, but I wouldn't spring for a pipe tap just to do that one job. Let it seep or go with a nut and a bolt with a washer, or saw the end off a double-female pipe sleeve (wrought iron, will weld nicely to steel) and weld or braze that to the cover to receive the plug.

Rear diff rubber plug...dumb question

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