Front or Rear Locker First?... as I can only afford the one

As Quoted from the Aussie Locker website:

If only installing one locker should I install in the front or rear?

This is dependent on your personal preference, the type of vehicle, existing diff types, and how you intend to use the vehicle.

* If a vehicle has an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) system then the front installation will result in a dramatic increase in 4WD capability. This is because all IFS vehicles have very limited suspension movement (wheel travel and articulation) resulting in easily lifted wheels and a loss of front traction. Installing a front locker will solve the deficiency.

* If a vehicle has LSD (Limited Slip Differential) in the rear, then a front installation provides a significant improvement over the existing LSD and open diff set-up.

* If a vehicle has constant 4WD then only a rear installation should be considered.

* A front installation will usually yield the greatest improvement in off-road capability. This is due to the general requirement of increased in traction under hill climbing or rock crawling. Under full climbing conditions, due to the angle of the vehicle, the rear wheels carry a much greater weight (weight transfer) and therefore, the front carries less weight and tends to break traction very easily.

Once one front wheel starts to spin the other wheel stops turning and the whole front diff ceases to provide traction. At this point the load is transferred to the rear diff as if the vehicle was a 2WD and due to the increased load the rear wheels tend to spin and the vehicle stops. If you can stop the front wheel from spinning you have solved the traction problem. In addition to the traction performance a front installation does not introduce any changes in handling characteristics.



Would you agree or disagree, because after reading this I would tend to get a locker for the Dana 30 up front before the 8.25 in the rear?

I'm locking my rear first.

if you don't have full time 4wd but do have a LSD rear, do the front just like the website recommends.

I have open diffs, I am just installing the last of the skids and tow points so now I'm thinking... a locker, front or rear, then a BB, then the other locker.

I don't plan on going larger than 31" tires in the next few years as it will be the DD for at least 3 more years... would a locker up front and a LSD (Powertrax) in the rear (8.25) work well for a fairly active weekend wheeler when during the week I need a well mannered vehical?

I think their logic could work for either the front or rear. personally, i went for the aussie in the rear for durability reasons. with 1 locker it is possible to have 100% of the torque going into ONE axle shaft(1 front and 1 rear tire lifted). I'd rather have it be the stronger shaft w/o u-joint. Also, i lift my rear tire more. Also, when drifting in deep sand washes its much more fun to be able to jam the gas...causing the rear to lock and slide all over the place. Also, depending on what year D30 you have, you may not want it in there all the time on the street.


-cheers

I'll go against the tide and say go ahead and do the front first. Think how much better a front wheel drive car handles the snow easier than a rear wheel drive car does.

Scott Mac. said:

I'll go against the tide and say go ahead and do the front first. Think how much better a front wheel drive car handles the snow easier than a rear wheel drive car does.

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Yeah but your would get major tourqe steer when on the gas

Scott Mac. said:

I'll go against the tide and say go ahead and do the front first. Think how much better a front wheel drive car handles the snow easier than a rear wheel drive car does.

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I have to agree with Scott. Rode with bj-666 at Mohawk Madness and I couldn't believe where that front aussie took us.

When your on any kind of slope the weight transfer to the rear. Front traction doesn't matter as much cause theres no weight there.

Lock the rear first. Most of the guys I run with(5+) hardley ever have to engage their front locker as the rear works most of the time.

I plan on doing the front first in my DD, but the main reason is that I plan on regearing and upgrading my 27 spline 8.25 in the future and I don't feel like having to get another locker for it. Either one will be better than stock open, so it works for my plans.

I did the front first on my junk. I mainly do rockcrawling so it does make a big difference. I don't do enough hill climbs to worry about weight in the rear. No snow here where I live, no concern.

I did the front of mine first and it seemed as though there was no where I could not go. Then I went and tore apart the rear to install a locker and low and behold I had a limited slip differential in my d35!!! It turned out to be pretty worn out but came to life when I added the front locker. I went ahead and replaced the rear limited slip with a open carrier and installed a trac lok (same as the front) and man alive this thing is awsome. The only draw back that I have is that it doesn't lock out anless there is no power to the rear wheels. The outside rear tire chirps going around corners part of the time. It is not a daily driver so that does not matter much to me. For that reason I would go with the front locker first.

Scott Mac. said:

I'll go against the tide and say go ahead and do the front first. Think how much better a front wheel drive car handles the snow easier than a rear wheel drive car does.

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Precisely why I listened to the old timers when they highly recommended a front locker first. Glad I did. Wish I had a dime for every time I've had to wait for some goofball on the trail trying to climb up something with just his rear locker. I did more with 30" BFG ATs and front locker than my wheeling buddies with their 33" MTs and rear lockers. :laugh3:

Sunday will be my first trail run locked front and rear (with new 33" MTRs). It's also my first outing in almost 2 years. Can't imagine what it'll be like.

Keep them coming!

If I were to lock the rear first I would have to get a Lockrite.
How much do they cost on average? How long does it take the average weekend grease monkey to install it? What does the average Powertrax LSD cost?

Long term durability and day to day driveability is important untill I am able to buy a DD, drive around town car. I have to drive around on a regular basis for research and I drive across the country several times a year.

Lock the rear first. The reason I say this is because when climbing something where you need the added traction, all the weight will be on the rear of the vehical. If you lock a IFS rig in the front both wheels will turn butt with IFS there is no down force on the tire on the ground so even though it is turning it will not have that much of an impact on pulling force. Most logic would say to lock the tires with the most weight on them and that will cause the most difference in traction, butt this does not take into account the weight transfer of a truck when a locker is ussually needed( steep climbs). Not to mention most trucks come with a stronger rear axle that can handle the added stress of a locker (no ujoints in the axle shaft to break).Lockrights are very easy to install, and a decent pick for a DD. Just my opinion.

I had the same set-up, 30 and 8.25. Lock the front, I frequent Moab and it made a huge difference. You want the pulling over the pushing over and obstacle. Not to mention with the front its not always working if you are in 2 wheel drive making it easier on your DD. With a lockrite, since it is a full locker, as soon as you do put it in 4 wheel drive you will feel it. You will find it sometimes hard to steer without hydro assist when the locker is engaged. You would be much happier with the front locker rather than the rear. Not to mention you are in WY, which means snow and a rear locker isnt the best in snow and icy conditions.

You can find a lockrite for anywhere from 220 to 290 dollars shipped. Just call around. Randys ring and pinion is a good place, someone else might be able to suggest somewhere cheaper though.

Just do it and let us know how it works out for you.

My vote is get the lift and tires and lern to drive without a locker.

ECKSJAY said:

Precisely why I listened to the old timers when they highly recommended a front locker first. Glad I did. Wish I had a dime for every time I've had to wait for some goofball on the trail trying to climb up something with just his rear locker. I did more with 30" BFG ATs and front locker than my wheeling buddies with their 33" MTs and rear lockers. :laugh3:

Sunday will be my first trail run locked front and rear (with new 33" MTRs). It's also my first outing in almost 2 years. Can't imagine what it'll be like.

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Yep front first, and never looked back