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Turd Hunting: buying a used D30

xjfish

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pequot Lakes, MN
So I bent my front D30 axle housing and knuckle about a month back in my DD and I'm really sick of bumming rides off of people and borrowing my parent's spare car to get to and from work... I need a Dana 30 HP with 3.54 gears to bolt into an '87 XJ and have some questions. I would kinda like to get a complete one and part out the old one/keep spare parts. I was quoted roughly $200-500 for an install and if parts had to be swaped from the old one so I think I'll try it myself.

Will any front axle with the same gear ratio from a TJ/XJ/ZJ work or are they different in some ways? I'd like to bolt it right up if possible.
What should I look for in a junkyard axle? I went to a junkyard today and had 5 cherokees checked and supposedly they all had the wrong gears. I was told that the axle needed to come from one with a 242 T-case (what I have) and that a 231 Selec-Trac or other would not work even if it was the same ratio. True? I've been quoted $250 at two places but got the one to go down to $125. Seems really high...fair price? I'll keep looking>>>

Thanks for any advice given! :)
 
A 3.55 geared D30 is the same as any other. You can swap in a TJ/ZJ D30,but you would be better off with an XJ. Also look for on that is 95 or newer or one that has ABS. They usually have the larger u-joints. Since you have a 242, there is no difference between a 231 and a 242, as long as the axle from the 231 is 91 or newer. The older D30 with the 231's had a vacuum disconect, you can still use this axle, but you would need to modify the vacuum accuator or R&R the passenger side shaft and swap it with a solid shaft.

Here is a great thread on D30's. Should give you plenty of info to ask more questions.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51598&highlight=front+axle
 
Thanks for your help Chuck.

ChuckD said:
You can swap in a TJ/ZJ D30,but you would be better off with an XJ.
Can someone tell me why an xj axle would be better? I found one off a '97 TJ that I would like to swap in. Whats different? Should I go for it?

I've heard that the '97 brakes are different than '87. How should I go about making it work? Can I use my old calipers with the '97 rotors?
 
xjfish said:
So I bent my front D30 axle housing and knuckle about a month back in my DD...

I did that back in the 80's myself (very long jump). I had a suspension shop straighten it and weld some gussets on and it ran great. Was cheaper than a new axle. BTW bent the thing in Yuma AZ and drove it back to Riverside CA and around for a week or two before I could afford to get it fixed. Of course at the time I was very non-Jeep knowledgable also. Not that I'm so knowledgable now tho!

Sarge
 
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"fat fingered" lol. I did consider having it straightened (and did drive with it bent for a little while but its completely out of the jeep as of tonight) But this axle is 17 years old, along with the housing and knuckle the mounts are a little bent, ball joints are all shot and so is atleast one inner seal. I guess I would rather part it out.
 
The XJ axle is High pinion. Which helps out in two ways.

1. The pinion sits higher, less driveshaft vibes and better clearance

2. The cut on the gears is stronger than a Low Pinion like the TJ axle.

Benefits to the TJ axle, bigger u-joints and greater amount of brake upgrades (not really much, mostly ceramic's and rotors)

All XJ axles can be upgraded to the bigger u-joint shafts, all XJ D30's can use the same outer knuckles like the TJ.

I ran a TJ 4.10 axle for a while with a 4.5" lift and 33's. It was fine, but I wanted a deeper gears and the XJ D30's are pretty easy to find here in CA.
 
xjfish said:
Can someone tell me why an xj axle would be better? I found one off a '97 TJ that I would like to swap in. Whats different? Should I go for it?


the axle in the TJ I believe is a low pinion regular cut. You'll want to find a high pinion reverse cut 30 if you intend to lift or offroad hard. helps reduce drive line angle and gear teeth engage on their strong side when driving forward (or up an obstacle).
 
OK I can get a '97 TJ stock axle for $150. I have about 4.5-5" of lift right now and run 31's. I wheel as hard as I can with my setup (open on both ends). I plan to go up to 6" in the front but stick with smaller tires/stock gears for a while. Will the TJ axle hold up with out problems? Should I go for it?

Also what should I do for brakes if I buy this one? I still have my stock calipers hooked up and would like to use them if possible?
 
xjfish said:
OK I can get a '97 TJ stock axle for $150. I have about 4.5-5" of lift right now and run 31's. I wheel as hard as I can with my setup (open on both ends). I plan to go up to 6" in the front but stick with smaller tires/stock gears for a while. Will the TJ axle hold up with out problems? Should I go for it?

Also what should I do for brakes if I buy this one? I still have my stock calipers hooked up and would like to use them if possible?


You can't use the old calipers, with out R&R the outer knuckles of the TJ axle.

Why do you need to go to 6"? If you are running 31's your 4.5" lift is perfect. All you would gain would be a BAD Center Of Gravity.
 
Thanks for the help. True that. I won't be going higher unless I run larger tires and lower gears later on. Should prolly check into some more fender hacking first...

I guess I'm going to go ahead and go with the LP30 simply because I need an axle soon and the balljoints on this one are probably decent and pray I won't have any problems with vibes, etc.

So I NEED TJ calipers for this axle or I have no way to get the brakes to work right? I don't want to swap any knuckles, etc... I understand I just can't switch the rotors because the XJ calipers won't bolt on right?
 
xjfish said:
So I NEED TJ calipers for this axle or I have no way to get the brakes to work right? I don't want to swap any knuckles, etc... I understand I just can't switch the rotors because the XJ calipers won't bolt on right?

The elier calipers will not bolt to the TJ outer knuckles.

As a rule, the hubs, rotors and caliper must match(be of the same vintage(like 87-91 or 92-99), not necessarily the same exact year). Shafts can be used on all years and configurations.

The calipers or knuckle determine the rotors and hubs. It's not hard to swap the outer knuckle, you don't have to replace the ball joints.

It's too bad the TJ axle doesn't come loaded with pads and calipers. The one I had, still had steering links, Trackbar and brakes.
 
My 2001 XJ has a LP D30 that needs regearing and a TruTrac. I cannot any reason to put any money into so it will be replaced with a HP.
Question, will the stock front drive shaft from my the LP D30 fit the HP or will it need shortening?

Thanks
 
Well I ended up scratching the "downgrade" LP30 idea and finally was able to find a HP30 out of an old XJ. Paid way too much for the crusty old turd but finally found one...

Before I put it in, is there anything I should definatly do or check? I have already pulled off everything i don't need, thoroughly cleaned the outside, sanded and painted the housing, and greased up the joints. I will change the fluid when its in and go over the steering. Brakes look shot but I will be swapping out my old ones. One of the axle u-joints in shot. Easier to change when the axle is in or out? Can you rent a 36MM socket and 175ft. lb torque wrench for the job?
 
xjfish said:
Well I ended up scratching the "downgrade" LP30 idea and finally was able to find a HP30 out of an old XJ. Paid way too much for the crusty old turd but finally found one...

Before I put it in, is there anything I should definatly do or check? I have already pulled off everything i don't need, thoroughly cleaned the outside, sanded and painted the housing, and greased up the joints. I will change the fluid when its in and go over the steering. Brakes look shot but I will be swapping out my old ones. One of the axle u-joints in shot. Easier to change when the axle is in or out? Can you rent a 36MM socket and 175ft. lb torque wrench for the job?


Or, you can pull the three 13mm 12 point bolts that hold the uni-bearing. Pull out the shaft and the unit bearing all together. You should be able to use your old shafts and bearings, if they are the same year. Since it sounds dirty, get some PB Blaster and soak it really good.

Otherwise a good breaker bar with an extension should get that hub nut off. As far as the socket, it should be part of your standard tools and should only be about $10-$15.
 
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