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Best gear for 33" tires / 96XJ/auto???

axistang

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Spartanburg, SC
I have 4.5" lift and Im about to do lockers and gears. Going with 33" tires and some trimming (currently have some 31"s installed). I want about the same accel / pulling power that I did with the stock 225/70/15 tires with the new 33" tires. Any suggestions? Are 4.56 gears a good choice?

Thanks
 
4.56
 
4.56s and 33s will give you about an 8% underdrive from stock if you orginally had 225/70R15s. It works out to be about 150 rpm more at 65 in 4th. I think this is a good combo because that 8% underdrive will be benifical to off set the additional mass of the larger tires. That's the combo I have and the acceleration is there.

--Matt
 
axistang said:
I have 4.5" lift and Im about to do lockers and gears. Going with 33" tires and some trimming (currently have some 31"s installed). I want about the same accel / pulling power that I did with the stock 225/70/15 tires with the new 33" tires. Any suggestions? Are 4.56 gears a good choice?

Thanks
If your axle will handle it, go 4.88's. The 4.56's are a wee bit weak there and when you take into account the increased mass of the vehicle, the increased air resistance due to the lift that you put on it you'll see that they don't cut it. In any case, pretty much everyone that I know that has an aw4 and 4.56's regrets not going to 4.88's.

Best suggestion I can give you is to find someone with 4.56's 33's see if you can take it for a spin or have tehm give you a ride and same goes for 4.88's and 33's. When you do that, make sure they have the same variation of the transmission as at one point the gear ratios in the aw4 has changed.
 
Go with 4.88's unless you like to do 90+ mph on the highway. I run 4.56's with 32's and it's a perfect all around setup for a 50/50 DD and off road vehicle.
 
another vote for 4.88's. cause ya know you will want 35's eventually. Seriously though I ran 4.88's and 33's and loved them......
 
i run 4.56s w/33s. while its fine, if i could have i probably would have gone to 4.88s but i have the 8.25. i turn 3k at 80 with 99 aw4
 
Thanks for all the input. I have the 8-1/4" and havent found a 4.88 rear yet but im still looking. i doubt my cherokee will see much highway action getting a Civic to daily drive. gas prices are getting a little high for me.
 
axistang said:
Thanks for all the input. I have the 8-1/4" and havent found a 4.88 rear yet but im still looking. i doubt my cherokee will see much highway action getting a Civic to daily drive. gas prices are getting a little high for me.
The 8.25 won't go lower than 4.56 gears. So your kinda stuck there.
 
I was told that if you want to go lower then 4.10 in stock axles it would weaken them. I am currently running 4.10 in stock axles and 34" tires.

On another axle subject, I have been afforded a Dana 44 front and a 14 bolt rear for $500.00 but I don't have the money to build them up right now. Would it be with it to bye them and build what I can when I get the money?

I would need ring and pinions, lockers, bearings, new wheels and tires, ect. They are out of a full size Ford and I would leave them at full width to get more stubility.
 
To the original thread, 4.56 with your axles is pretty much it for 33s. I run 4.56 with 32s and things are fine so far.

Ladeback XJ, can't offer much help, except to ask if you've priced out everthing. Swapping axles gets really costly, unless you are able to do most of the work yourself.
 
Wescam,

Yes, I have done some pricing and it would cost over $3000.00 to get them to where I would like them. I am thinking of doing most of the work my self but would send out the harder stuff.
 
Ladeback XJ said:
Wescam,

Yes, I have done some pricing and it would cost over $3000.00 to get them to where I would like them. I am thinking of doing most of the work my self but would send out the harder stuff.

That seems expensive, but I guess it adds up if you throw in lockers.

I'm running 4.56s and 33s, and the combo has worked great. I am actually thinking of moving up to 35, because I have room and it will help bring my rpm down on the highway.
 
I'm running 33's with 4.88's. I love em, turns the tires no problem and my gas mileage jumped from 12-13 with 3.55's and 31's to 16 with the 4.88's and 33's. I turn about 2500 RPM near 65. It'll be a nice setup too when I step up to 35's.
 
sorry to rob the thread, but i'm in the same situation. i'd like to run 35's with my d30 and 8.25 with dual arb's, but i'm not sure what kinda gearing i can go with max with those axles. any suggestions? i use the jeep for dd and i put a lot of highway miles on it, so i'd like to get good on road mileage and still have power off road. anyone?
 
Ladeback XJ said:
Wescam,

Yes, I have done some pricing and it would cost over $3000.00 to get them to where I would like them. I am thinking of doing most of the work my self but would send out the harder stuff.


Yeah, sounds about right (with lockers and all). Like the JP magazine article where they built up a Dana 60 (in the newest one). They did all the work, but the price tag was still way up there (they did build the hell out of it though).

I figure what most people do is wheel stuff until it's worn out or broken, then spend the cash to upgrade axles -- leading to bigger tires/lower gearing, etc.
 
The $3000.00 is an ARB in the front, Detroit in the back, 4.88 gears, new bearings, ARB compressor, and labor. If you add new wheels and tires it is more. I can get the parts for around $2000.00 it’s the labor that hurts. I would have to be the tools to put the gears and lockers in and maybe a little help on how to do it.
If I buy the parts a piece at a time or save up to be it all at once I guess it wouldn't be to bad, and in the mean time learn how to put the gears and lockers in.
For wheels I was thinking of using the wheels off my 2004 Avalanche since I want to change them. They would be the same bolt pattern and I wouldn't care about trashing them. Then I would just need new tires after I put new wheels and tires on the Avalanche.
 
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