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Stroker with out removing engine

XJJack

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Hawthorne, CA
I was wondering if anyone has treid to stoke there (fresh) 4.0 byt taking off the pan and timing cover installing 4.2 crank and rods on the stock pistons and slaping it together? I seams like the parts should work (not sure about the cam) and I know that it will be tricky geting the piston rings back in from the bottom but it can be done.

So what do you think is this a posable option?
 
Do it the right and pull the motor. You are cutting so many corners by trying to do it in the truck it wont be worth it in the end. Also pistons have to be droped in from the top. Life will be much easier of you just pull the motor and do it on a stand in a shop/garage.

AARON
 
Ok, so I can't go that way. Can I leave the manifolds atached to the head when removing and reinstaling?
Just trying to shorten the job.
 
doesn't really fit your app.....just home sick and kinda bored, and I'm easily amused.....
 
XJEEPER said:
doesn't really fit your app.....just home sick and kinda bored, and I'm easily amused.....

Don't apologize for humor! I enjoyed it.
 
There was a long thread about this a while back. Even pulling the head is not going to work. The ring groves from the shorter stroke will cause problems and probably cause broken rings. You need to bore it.
 
Thank you thats the kind of info I need. I might even check to see if I can just hown it for the extra stroke. But can I leave the head and manifolds as an assembly?
 
Just take the extra 20 minutes to pull the intake and exhaust and quit trying to take so many PITA shortcuts!
 
XJJack said:
Thank you thats the kind of info I need. I might even check to see if I can just hown it for the extra stroke. But can I leave the head and manifolds as an assembly?
You mean "hone"?

Old_Man is referring to the carbon ridge that forms at the top of the cylinders. If you don't ream that out BEFORE removing the pistons, you will certainly break some piston rings and you may very likely break some pistons. There is a tool for this, cleverly named a "ridge reamer," because that's what it does -- reams out the ridge.

I'm sorry to say this, but I honestly don't think you should even consider attempting this. If you haven't built a couple of engines before, trying to assemble a stroker on a budget that's not adequate to freshen a stock engine is NOT a good idea. And it doesn't sound like you have enough engine building experience to tackle this.
 
Yucca-Man said:
Just take the extra 20 minutes to pull the intake and exhaust and quit trying to take so many PITA shortcuts!

Actually that's a valid shortcut. There's no need to remove the manifolds from the head for this project. They might take 20 minutes to change out with the head on the bench, but in the Jeep it's a PITA.

Now about honing the cylinders. You MIGHT get away with that. But only if this engine is damn near brand new. If there's enough ridge to catch a fingernail, you're done. You'll need new rings even if you don't have to bore.
 
I wouldnt put the head on the motor with the manifolds still attached. My mechanic who has been building/repairing vehicles for years said that the weight from the manifolds leaning off the head could cause the head bolts to tighten funny. I would rather take the longer road and do it right than short cut something like this. Do you want to do this again any time soon? If not, pull it all the way out or have a professional do it the right way.

AARON
 
If I remember right, you don't even need a bolt in the head to hold it on the block with the manifolds on the side. The head's weight versus the aluminum intake hanging out there holds it flat. You need two guys to position the head without dinging the gasket is the only drawback.

Do what you want, I've never had a problem with this method.
 
JJacobs said:
Actually that's a valid shortcut. There's no need to remove the manifolds from the head for this project. They might take 20 minutes to change out with the head on the bench, but in the Jeep it's a PITA.
With the level of capability demostrated so far by the original poster though, I'd say that the likelihood of damaging the head or the deck is too great to risk pulling and replacing the head with the added off-center weight of the manifolds. If he does, we can probably expect to see a new thread titled, "Can I fill a gouge in the block with JB Weld?"

JJacobs said:
You need two guys to position the head without dinging the gasket is the only drawback.

Do what you want, I've never had a problem with this method.
Again, that's assuming there will be two people doing the work but with the number of shortcuts alluded to already my guess is that the originator will be doing the work alone, thus increasing the odds of farking it up.

Your skills aren't in question; I believe you can do it alone without the manifold removal...
 
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