XJ '96 - 2,5 Diesel error code:32 EGR - help

Is there anybody out there who know where this EGR thing is located on a 2,5 Diesel engine? I have searched here and goggle and .......

The engine starts easily but when I start driving the engine seems to work harder a few seconds, the lamp "check engine" turns on, and believe it or not, the engine seems to work smoothly again ??
Beats me!

Would it be possible to remove a censor or loosen the thing to look for changes? Or block the EGR intake, witch is the closest tips I find using a search on this site.

Sorry if this is noise, cause I don't see many diesel cherokee articles around.

Regards,
Jan
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XJ Jeep Cherokee '96 - 2,5 LTD (Diesel)

Hi

Got a 98 2.5TD manual as well but it is a right hand drive. The EGR is: when you face the engine on the left near the back. Look for a pencil thin black pipe that originates near your PCM (my PCM is on left side near front) and goes to what looks like the old vacuum advance on a distributor - this is the EGR valve. Its basically above and on the excaust manifold side of your engine.

A diesel specialist recently blocked off my EGR with two gaskets (one on either side) as I am getting no alarms but a shudder/miss/sag at constant speed generally up a gentle to steep incline. We tried everything, injector tests etc etc and this is our latest attempt. It has not altered the bad performance. So for you maybe its worth a try - for me it did not help.

One point - I have also noticed the lack of diesel vehicles on this site - would you know any other jeep site which I could also use? regards Andrew

Diesel XJ's are pretty rare animals here, we get the occasional one that filters down from canada, usually ends up in Maine or points north. Questions do pop up from time to time but it is usually 'where can I get parts' types.

Hi,

Funny to read from a 2,5 TD engine in an US forum. Here in europe they are very common. So if you have problems try www.jeepforum.at . Of course it's in german, but as we have a lot of Diesels running here there are some guys who can help.
The EGR isn't really needed. When the engine is running on lower rpm the emitted burned gas from the exhaust is brought back to the engine air intake. this should make better emission.

But as the 2,5 TD engine has problems with cracked cylinder-heads we all try to keep the temperature low. Don't go above 3000 rpm - it heats up unnecessary. Maybe you install an additional oil-cooler? Or try to get more airflow to the intercooler.
Just have a look at www.cherokee.at.tt (my site). I wrote some about my modifications.

greetings from austria
Rainer

Hi

Thanks for the site address. I have a Namibian friend who also owns a 2.5TD (later model) and is fluent.

On the EGR thing - I said it did not fix my problem but I have noticed that it is leaking as the two steel plates inserted had paper gaskets installed as well. Getting a bit gummed up from 3 days running and today was the 1st day the vehicle did not miss so will change the plates/gaskets to aliminium ones and see what happens. Hoping that gunge and carbon will eventually be cleaned out - rode for 10000kms with EGC housing loose and sucking /blowing air before this all happened -something must have got a carbon buildup?

WRT temp, there is a modification completed in south africa by a private company that monitors the intake and excaust temps and alarms for excessive heat - my friend had it installed on his new 2003 2.5TD but mine was 2nd hand so i thought that maybe the horse had bolted already. The alarm keeps him below about 3000rpm except for cold days - I basically (since new heads) go up to 140kmph on cold days and 110kmph on days over 30deg celcius - these values found from monitoring his alarm system.

JanH - the black thin pipe that I was speaking about - pull it off the vacuum unit at the EGR (has a flexible black rubber connection to a stiff thin black pipe) and block the pipe and see what happens when you run the vehicle (disabling EGR unit).
regards andrew

to the temp part: but this is only a warning system if it gets too hot. it doesn't help to keep the engine cool?
my wishes are that the engine should stay cool. therefore i mounted an additional engine oil cooler (since some days i have a oil-temp-meter to see how the oil is doing), an additional electrical waterpump (which starts for 5 to 10 minutes when the engine stops to bring out the temp from the engine head), the holes for the intercooler and soon i will mount hood vents on the hood so that the hot air can get out.
additionally i have to drive careful - not over 3000 rpm - and not shutting down the engine after a long and hot ride ..

RichP said:

Diesel XJ's are pretty rare animals here, we get the occasional one that filters down from canada, usually ends up in Maine or points north. Questions do pop up from time to time but it is usually 'where can I get parts' types.

Click to expand...

Don't let that make you think the diesel is common here either. In all my years of driving XJ/MJ's (and the requisite junkyard scavenging that goes with it), I've only ever seen 2 diesels, both with cracked heads, both were swapped over to 2.5 gas engines as this could be done for about 1/3 the cost of repairing the diesel engine. Don't know what they go for on the european market, but a head alone lists for $2300 here. Also since the majority of our parts and manuals come directly from the U.S. we have a hard time finding parts or info for the diesel engine.

here the repair of the full head costs about 2000 - 3000€ ... also not cheap ... but as our fuel prices are much more higher .... it's reliable ...

and the cracked heads are mostly when you drive on high rpm or you going full pull up a mountain ...
if i would be in the states or where else fuel is cheaper .. i would use a 4.0 L engine .