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Replaceing drums/shoes tonight..help!

JeepXJ93

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
I'm changing the cylinders/shoes/and drums on my g/f's 98 XJ tonight and was just wondering if there was anything i should know that "go jeep.com" left out of the how to write up? I also have the haynes manual and was planning on just going by that....my only question is neither of them say anything about bleeding the lines....should i do this too?? I'm sure i'll be back here periodically throughout the overhaul b/c my luck i ALWAYS run into a problem, any help is appreciated.
 
I usually do one brake at a time, so I have something to look at, other than the book (which is often hard to make out).
Your gonna have to bleed them. I always use a deep socket to loosen the bleeder, then switch to an open end.
Most guys get into trouble with the brake line nuts. An open end wrench usually isn't enough to break it free (you might get lucky). Most line wrenches are also marginal. Guys often round off the brake line nut. If the open end doesn´t get it and/or the line wrench doesn´t seem to want to get it, know when to stop, before rounding the brake line nut off.
I have a good set of vice grips, I carefully adjust them (near the tip) so they hold well on the nut, but don´t crush the nut. And gently rotate them right and left until I can feel things give a bit. Works for me. Then switch to the line or open end wrench
I have numerous sets of line wrenches, in various configurations, but always seem to return to the vice locks.
 
ok, i'll be sure to have the vice grips handy, as for bleeding the lines...all i have to do is pull the line off after getting the nut to loosen and then let the fluid drain, reconnect and then fill it back up??? Never done it before.
 
If you replace the cylinders you must bleed the lines. Having the right tools will make the job much easier. Since you have the manual, just study that and take your time. Do one side at a time so you can go look at the other side in case you forget where something goes or the manual doesn't have good illustrations. Use some brake cleaner to be sure there is no grease or crud on the shoes or the drum when you re-assemble.

Good luck, you can do it.
 
My advice is...if you have NEVER worked on drum brakes before, let someone else do it. Or have someone help you

Don't mean to sound negative, but it's not as easy as it may seem. If you want to do it yourself, plan for extra time. In other words, don't do it two hours before you have to drive somewhere. Good luck.
 
JeepXJ93 said:
ok, i'll be sure to have the vice grips handy, as for bleeding the lines...all i have to do is pull the line off after getting the nut to loosen and then let the fluid drain, reconnect and then fill it back up??? Never done it before.
The advice to find someone who has done brakes before is wise. I´ve done a bunch of brakes and still managed to screw one up, not long ago, rushing.

I usually keep a piece of paper towel (small) rolled into a cone shape (small) to stick in the end of the brake line, when it´s off of the wheel cylinder, jam it in there with a toothpick (not too hard). Or try to let as little brake fluid leak out as possible.
Seem to remember Haynes had a decent section on brake bleeding. The trick is to keep as much fluid in the lines as possible. Let the air out of the bleeder valve, while lightly applying the brakes, when the pedal gets to the bottom, lightly tighten the bleeder, never let the brake pedal move up with the bleeder open (or it will suck air), always make sure the master cylinder is near full and the lid is on the master clylnder when pushing the brakes.
If the XJ has ABS, whatever you do, don´t turn on the key with the lines off. If you loose too much fluid and have to bleed the ABS system, it can be a real pain.
I usually use a piece of rubber tubing (that fits over the nipple of the bleeder valve) and a glass jar, to catch the fluid that comes out fo the bleeder valve. Brake fluid can mess with your paint and makes a mess.
The last time I replced the wheel brake cylinders, I did it in two sittings. Changed the wheel brake cylinders one day and did the brakes the next. You can change the wheel brake cylinder, by removing the brake return springs and prying the shoes outword, without removing the whole works (all of the brake parts). Just have to line up the brake cylinder yokes and the parking brake link, to push the shoes back into position again.
 
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thanks for the confidence...actually had another question pre-attempting to even start the job lol...we had a shop check them out first to find out if there was something wrong other than something i can fix myself, and the drum was a real pain to get off...i know there is some kind of lever or wheel i can turn w/ a screw driver to release the pads but i watched the guys at the shoppe and the just smacked it w/ a hammer a few times and it came off, is that ok to do if that is a problem again?
 
There is often a ridge on the outside of a worn drum, that catches the shoes some. The trick is to try and get the drum off of there straight (as possible) if it gets canted it will get stuck on the shoes. I often twist it a touch left and right when taking the drum off. Some moderate tapping with a heammer can help. If it gets stuck I push it back on and try again. They sometimes get stuck a bit in the center (hub) also a moderate wack with a hammer, will help get things moving. Cast iron can chip, it is brittle, especially near the edges, heavy hammer use can cause catastrophy. I rarley have to turn in the star wheel (on the adjuster) to get a drum off. They usually have to be turned in near to all the way whith new shoes and drums, so the new shoes clear the new drums.
The adjusters have reverse threads on one side, beleive it´s the left side (but maybe I´m bassed ackwords), but do know the adjusters turn different directions.
 
xjohnnyc said:
My advice is...if you have NEVER worked on drum brakes before, let someone else do it. Or have someone help you

x2 I just replaced my drums and one of the backing plates today. It def. helps to have someone thats done it before to help you. It took my dad and I about 3 hours to do the whole job. A can of shop solv (chlorinated cleaner) helps o lot.
 
if you still have the factor rubber line coming down to the axle use your vise grips on it,i usually use needle nose type .clamp it on the rubber line doesn't have to be tight just enough to stop the flow of fluid.as for taking the drums off i just back the shoes off using the adjuster.takes a small screwdriver and a thin chisel to rotate the adjuster back.
 
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