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Attaching engine hoist?
- Thread starter dwebb944t
- Start date
- Location
- NC Sandhills
IIRC (it was 4 years ago) after unbolting stuff and moving the intake/removing the exhaust, and unplugging all the wires, I looped a length of chain from an int/exh stud over the top to the dipstick bracket stud.
It wasn't the most level attachment, but I also had the radiator/header panel off/out of the way... Now I think back on it, my hoist wouldn't lift high enough for the engine to clear the front uniframe crossmember... (+4.75" lift on 33") so I let air out of the front tires to make room.
It wasn't the most level attachment, but I also had the radiator/header panel off/out of the way... Now I think back on it, my hoist wouldn't lift high enough for the engine to clear the front uniframe crossmember... (+4.75" lift on 33") so I let air out of the front tires to make room.
8Mud
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Central Germany
Been awhile for me also and I´ve never taken out just the motor, always pulled the motor, tranny and transfer as a unit.
I removed the starter and the intake/exhaust manifold (front clip and anything else in the way). I looped an old tow strap at the rear of the motor, ran it underneath, between the motor drain plug and the bell housing (pull the strap tight it will stretch). And used a short piece of chain from a front intake manifold bolt (used a longer bolt and WASHER). Made a slightly off center three point harness. I could slide the motor lift hook, a link at a time, on the chain to get the right angle to clear.
Unbolted the motor mounts from the frame.
The only damage I did was to bend the dust cover for the torque converter a bit.
May be a better way, but this worked out OK for me. Some kind of three point setup, will probably work the best.
I removed the starter and the intake/exhaust manifold (front clip and anything else in the way). I looped an old tow strap at the rear of the motor, ran it underneath, between the motor drain plug and the bell housing (pull the strap tight it will stretch). And used a short piece of chain from a front intake manifold bolt (used a longer bolt and WASHER). Made a slightly off center three point harness. I could slide the motor lift hook, a link at a time, on the chain to get the right angle to clear.
Unbolted the motor mounts from the frame.
The only damage I did was to bend the dust cover for the torque converter a bit.
May be a better way, but this worked out OK for me. Some kind of three point setup, will probably work the best.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Never pulled a straight 4, 6 or 8 before, on a V engine I put the tabs on opposite ends of the intake manifold. I think if I was going to pull a straight I'd probably pop the valve cover, back out the two opposite end head bolts, attach the loop tab and put em back in hand tight.
imma honky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
I used the bolt for the A/C bracket and one bolt on the manifold (yes, on it. I left the intake/exhaust on it for removal) BUT, my front clip was off. Came out nice and level after adjust the chain a few times.
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
Here is how I did it. I used very heavy lifting line, wrapped it multiple time and used a load balancer. You have to watch for sharp edges.
imma honky
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Augusta, Ga
Radiator/nose piece/grill/lights.dwebb944t said:
old_man
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Loveland, Colorado
I was wondering if someone would notice. That was/is my 85XJ that was not designed for the I-6. Yes I cut off all the sheetmetal on the front including the head light supports and swapped them over to the later model sheetmetal. An easy afternoon's work:laugh3:
csr_011
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Lincoln, NE
The way to get those darned top two bolts off is easy. First off its an external torx head bolt(like a 12 point head), cant remember the size, 40 something socket.
Unbolt the tranny/transfer case crossmember and lower the angle of the tranny about 5 to 7 inches changing the axis or angle of the power plant to give you access to the bolts from underneath with a long extension and swivel, or you can fight em a bit from the top with out extension once lowered. I fought those darn things for awhile before i figured this out.
I threw those two bolts in the garbage and swopped in two hex heads of the same grade.
Oh yah, I used choker straps to pull my motor, used a forklift and some patience.......
HTH,
Cory
Unbolt the tranny/transfer case crossmember and lower the angle of the tranny about 5 to 7 inches changing the axis or angle of the power plant to give you access to the bolts from underneath with a long extension and swivel, or you can fight em a bit from the top with out extension once lowered. I fought those darn things for awhile before i figured this out.
I threw those two bolts in the garbage and swopped in two hex heads of the same grade.
Oh yah, I used choker straps to pull my motor, used a forklift and some patience.......
HTH,
Cory
Last edited:
csr -
Thanks for the advice, after trying a billion times with the extension and swival at too much of an angle, I came to the conclusion I would need to drop things to inprove the angle, thanks for confirming it. I will give it a try tonight...
Dan
Thanks for the advice, after trying a billion times with the extension and swival at too much of an angle, I came to the conclusion I would need to drop things to inprove the angle, thanks for confirming it. I will give it a try tonight...
Dan
You probably don't want to do this, but my friends and I once pulled a 258 from an '80 CJ-7. We took off the head and used the old head bolts along with washers so that the chain wouldn't slip through. It worked great until we realized that we forgot to drain any of the fluids -- BIG mess 
.
With many V8s that I've pulled, I wrapped the chain around the motor several times, trying to distribute the chain on the bottom as much as possible to prevent damage to the oil pan. I never had a problem, though now I typically use bolts threaded into the exhaust manifold bosses along with several lengths of short chain. It works much better.
Hmm, if I were doing an inline motor, I'd probably use the wrapping method if I couldn't easily find secure attachment points. Maybe loop the chain through the gaps between the intake manifold and block, which should prevent the chain from slipping fore and aft. I saw a garage lift a 4.0 this way before, except they used seat belts... kinda sloppy, but it worked.
.With many V8s that I've pulled, I wrapped the chain around the motor several times, trying to distribute the chain on the bottom as much as possible to prevent damage to the oil pan. I never had a problem, though now I typically use bolts threaded into the exhaust manifold bosses along with several lengths of short chain. It works much better.
Hmm, if I were doing an inline motor, I'd probably use the wrapping method if I couldn't easily find secure attachment points. Maybe loop the chain through the gaps between the intake manifold and block, which should prevent the chain from slipping fore and aft. I saw a garage lift a 4.0 this way before, except they used seat belts... kinda sloppy, but it worked.
natep1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rochester, MI
I just pulled the engine in mine today and bolted the chain to an accesory bolt hole on the drivers side front and to the "ear" on the rear of the block, where it bolts to the bellhousing. Wasn't too horrible.
HTH
HTH
explorer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- rosemount,mn
Pull two head bolts toward the ends. They are very near the centerline of the engine and if you pull it with the manifolds in place, the whole assy will balance very well laterally. If those upper bellhsg. bolts look like a star, they are inverted torx bolts, E12 size I believe.
burntkat
NAXJA Member #1145
- Location
- Charleston, SC
to the fellow having problems with those top two bolts:
I had the same problem. You're not going to like it, but here's the easy way to fix it:
<having removed everything between the engine and vehicle- straps, wires, etc>
disconnect the steering from the pitman arm. Remove the motor mounts and the mount brackets <on the motor>
drop the crossmember and rear shaft. Lower the transmission and crossmember until it touches the ground. Lower the engine till it touches the front axle. Get an air cutoff tool and cut off the heads of both of the bolts that are giving you problems <BTW- the PROPER tool for them is an E12 inverse torx- but now you've been using a 12 point they're probably buggered>. Raise tranny back up, bolt crossmember back in. Remove engine.
An easy hour's work. Highly advise you do it this way, and replace those !@##$& bolts with hex-head, grade 5 or better. IIRC, it's a 3/8-16, but don't quote me as it's been two years since I did it.
I had the same problem. You're not going to like it, but here's the easy way to fix it:
<having removed everything between the engine and vehicle- straps, wires, etc>
disconnect the steering from the pitman arm. Remove the motor mounts and the mount brackets <on the motor>
drop the crossmember and rear shaft. Lower the transmission and crossmember until it touches the ground. Lower the engine till it touches the front axle. Get an air cutoff tool and cut off the heads of both of the bolts that are giving you problems <BTW- the PROPER tool for them is an E12 inverse torx- but now you've been using a 12 point they're probably buggered>. Raise tranny back up, bolt crossmember back in. Remove engine.
An easy hour's work. Highly advise you do it this way, and replace those !@##$& bolts with hex-head, grade 5 or better. IIRC, it's a 3/8-16, but don't quote me as it's been two years since I did it.
I just pulled my engine and tranny together, last weekend. I've found it easier to pull both, than mess with the bolts on the bellhousing. Don't forget to pull out the shifter assembly, if you pull both together. Makes things fun. Don't ask. I put a single chain one on the rear exhaust stud and used one of the holes one the passenger side that the alternator bracket bolts used. I put the hook on the hoist towards the back of the motor or chain. This balanced quite well. Also drop the transmission cross member if you are pulling both together. I also removed the front clip and radiator. I removed all the brackets I could.
Tom
Tom
logdog
NAXJA Member #703
- Location
- Riverton, UT
The top 2 bolts on the bell housing are reverse torx (dont remember what size) Just use about 3 feet of extention with a swivel. They should come right out.
