ParkCityXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Park City, Utah
Is it possible to remove the head to replace the head gasket without removing the intake and exhaust manifolds? Those bolts are a real pain in the knuckles to get at...
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head gasket w/o removing manifolds??
- Thread starter ParkCityXJ
- Start date
BigDadys94xj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Naples, New York
It can be done it will just be a little harder to manuver the head around plus it will be quite heavy! I would recomend removing the intake and exhaust manifolds so you can clean the head properly and so you can check the ports for any cracks or clean any excessive carbon or dirt build up in the head or intake. Good luck!
P.S. Just remember dont do things half assed or it will eventually bite you!
P.S. Just remember dont do things half assed or it will eventually bite you!
Yup.... a real pain in the knuckles.
I removed the head once that way, then removed the manifolds before I reassembled every thing. Too darned heavy, and the last thing I wanted to do (in hindsight) was smack the downpipe against something and break bolts or manifold.
I removed the head once that way, then removed the manifolds before I reassembled every thing. Too darned heavy, and the last thing I wanted to do (in hindsight) was smack the downpipe against something and break bolts or manifold.
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Certainly - that's how I pull them. Once you have the head off, it's a lot easier to service the gaskets (which you should do while you have the thing available to you anyhow...)
You'll need to unbolt the exhaust collector flange, the throttle body (which can be laid aside) and either remove the fuel rail from the intake or disconnect it from the fuel line(s).
Either way, it will behoove you to service every seal you can get to while you have the thing torn to bits - I take care of the manifold seal while I've got the thing on the bench, and make sure to reseal the fuel rail upon assembly.
If you aren't ready for the job, you will want to have help when you remove and install the head. Don't forget that the head bolts can only be reused once - if there are paint marks on the bolts, get replacements. Paint them if you are reusing them so the next guy (who may be you!) will remember.
I find it helps to control the head assembly while lifting if I remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, and use the hole it mounts in as a sort of handle to help me control the head. Try not to use the manifolds as handles for lifting - they're just not solid enough for me to trust. You can use them for a bit of leverage, but it's not a good idea to sustain any sort of force on them.
Also, I find it helps to place everything if you have some sort of guides to lower the head onto - I tend to use a set of old Chevvy pushrods I keep for the purpose, but you can also use 1/2"-13 threaded rod (brass!) or something similar. Why brass? Sharp steel edges can cause trouble (that's why I like pushrods - no edges.)
I don't think the FSM sez to do it this way, but you should torque the head bolts in at least three "stages" - I do 25/50/75/FINAL pound-feet (four stages.) This will give the head more time to take the "set" from being torqued down and compressed by the bolts, and it allows the bolts to more thoroughly clamp the head. Also, while not necessary, it's a good idea to recheck head bolt torque in about two days. Everyone says it doesn't need to be done anymore, but I never stopped doing it from way back when and I find it a good habit.
5-90
You'll need to unbolt the exhaust collector flange, the throttle body (which can be laid aside) and either remove the fuel rail from the intake or disconnect it from the fuel line(s).
Either way, it will behoove you to service every seal you can get to while you have the thing torn to bits - I take care of the manifold seal while I've got the thing on the bench, and make sure to reseal the fuel rail upon assembly.
If you aren't ready for the job, you will want to have help when you remove and install the head. Don't forget that the head bolts can only be reused once - if there are paint marks on the bolts, get replacements. Paint them if you are reusing them so the next guy (who may be you!) will remember.
I find it helps to control the head assembly while lifting if I remove the thermostat housing and thermostat, and use the hole it mounts in as a sort of handle to help me control the head. Try not to use the manifolds as handles for lifting - they're just not solid enough for me to trust. You can use them for a bit of leverage, but it's not a good idea to sustain any sort of force on them.
Also, I find it helps to place everything if you have some sort of guides to lower the head onto - I tend to use a set of old Chevvy pushrods I keep for the purpose, but you can also use 1/2"-13 threaded rod (brass!) or something similar. Why brass? Sharp steel edges can cause trouble (that's why I like pushrods - no edges.)
I don't think the FSM sez to do it this way, but you should torque the head bolts in at least three "stages" - I do 25/50/75/FINAL pound-feet (four stages.) This will give the head more time to take the "set" from being torqued down and compressed by the bolts, and it allows the bolts to more thoroughly clamp the head. Also, while not necessary, it's a good idea to recheck head bolt torque in about two days. Everyone says it doesn't need to be done anymore, but I never stopped doing it from way back when and I find it a good habit.
5-90
