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Fuel + Fire should = Start

A

Audiophile

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Boise, ID.
But, apparently it doesn't :) I finished putting in a new CPS (other was broken) and I still don't have the hint of the motor catching.

I have Fuel at the fuel rail
I have spark (after replacing the CPS)
I just finished checking which wire goes onto #1 on the distributor by finding TDC (my wiring was waaaay off.)

Still no start. Any guesses?
 
scoobyxj said:
Check to see if the injectors are pulseing.
Click to expand...


maybe i'm not getting you here...but if the engine wont start, there CERTAINLY wont be any injectors firing! right?

i think what scooby meant was if the engine was running (but not well), u can sort of tell if an injector is firing by putting your finger on top of each injector to feel it pulsing in rhythm.....you could feel each of the 6 injectors and see if any of them felt "dead"

but i dont think you are quite there yet im afraid!

good luck with it though....im sure more will chime in with some advice....
 
Did you have the distributor out recently? It's either timing related or fuel. For checking if the injectors are firing you can get noid lights at about any parts store. They plug in in place of the injector and flash when they receive the signal to fire.

Now this is all assuming you didn't hurt your motor and compression is there.
 
JJacobs said:
Did you have the distributor out recently?
Click to expand...
Nope, it hasn't been removed since the motor was running.

JJacobs said:
It's either timing related or fuel. For checking if the injectors are firing you can get noid lights at about any parts store. They plug in in place of the injector and flash when they receive the signal to fire.
Click to expand...

Ok, I'll check on that.

I ran the motor right before pulling it out, and it ran great, so I doubt it doesn't have compresison.

Thanks.
 
I had a problem with the Jeep not starting because the sparks plugs were soaked in gas. Pull them and check to see if they're dry, and remove the air intake hose from the manifold to get as much air as possible when trying to start it.
 
Cherokee91red is right on target. Soaked plugs due to trying to start with a bad cps is a very common PIA problem.
 
New plugs definitely.....these things flood and foul plugs easily when trying to get running....as do most injected motors nowadays. Double check and re-check ALL of your wiring/grounds...and your spark plug wire routing too...on the motor and on the cap...anything that you've touched since the install/repair...even the petty/little things that you've moved/replaced. It's usually a combination of ... 1. major thing....and 2 or 3 little things that keeps you guessing the most. And on swaps....it's always little nit picky things...it seems...that get ya.
Aron
 
Check your spark from the coil, it should look like a little bolt of lightning. I've had several chrysler engines that had the same symtoms, and probably 4 out of 5 times a new coil made it happen.
 
Dan Turner said:
Check your spark from the coil, it should look like a little bolt of lightning. I've had several chrysler engines that had the same symtoms, and probably 4 out of 5 times a new coil made it happen.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dan, I know I didn't mention this before, but I did pull the coil and check it with a multimeter, and it is working properly.
 
I ran the motor right before pulling it out, and it ran great, so I doubt it doesn't have compresison.

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

By this do you mean the engine was removed/installed?If so is the ground strap from engine to firewall connected?Just a thought.
 
I had a similar problem where i was getting both spark and gas but no start. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor (originals that appeared to be in pretty bad shape) and for some reason got the thing to start. If you haven't replaced these, it could be a cheap attempt...

Pat
 
planefixer said:
By this do you mean the engine was removed/installed?If so is the ground strap from engine to firewall connected?Just a thought.
Click to expand...

That is a distinct possiblity. I installed one, but the area I installed in was pretty dirty. Maybe the contact isn't good enough. I'll try that tonight. :laugh3:
 
Pat said:
I had a similar problem where i was getting both spark and gas but no start. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor (originals that appeared to be in pretty bad shape) and for some reason got the thing to start. If you haven't replaced these, it could be a cheap attempt...

Pat
Click to expand...

That was one thing I did check, they weren't bad. The cap had a little buildup on them that I scraped off with a knife.
 
planefixer said:
I ran the motor right before pulling it out, and it ran great, so I doubt it doesn't have compresison.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

By this do you mean the engine was removed/installed?If so is the ground strap from engine to firewall connected?Just a thought.[/QUOTE]


That sounds incredibly familiar Jeff!

We had the exact same problem, to a T. Well, I had the problem, because my dumb ass forgot the ecu ground. It goes on the dipstick stud on the side of the block. Try that!
 
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