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96+ SYE,,this thing is so simple...

JLane99XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alabama
why couldn't u make you own??

tnRE1807.jpg


basically all it would take would be a short section of the current rear driveshaft slip yoke (heck its about to hit the scrap pile anyway) then weld on a flange of which to mate a cv drive shaft to and save probly 75 bux

what do ya think?
 
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Too much hassle for one thing. Getting the cut portion PERFECTLY welded to the flange would be difficult.

But more importantly, the RE flange is actually a press fit onto the output shaft. This will keep the new flange from attempting to wear out the splines on the output shaft. The factory slip yoke is not a press fit, and would/could cause problems over time.

IMO the RE hack and tap is a pretty good and cheap solution to vibe issues...espacially when used with a front XJ driveshaft that has been re-tubed. Poor man's SYE.
 
WNC Custom Jeeps said:
Too much hassle for one thing. Getting the cut portion PERFECTLY welded to the flange would be difficult.

But more importantly, the RE flange is actually a press fit onto the output shaft. This will keep the new flange from attempting to wear out the splines on the output shaft. The factory slip yoke is not a press fit, and would/could cause problems over time.

IMO the RE hack and tap is a pretty good and cheap solution to vibe issues...espacially when used with a front XJ driveshaft that has been re-tubed. Poor man's SYE.


the precisely welded on to a flange isn't really an issue i have a friend that owns a machine shop & he is ultra-high-speed when it comes to machining parts & welding them up.
i was thinking about using about 2" of the existing driveshaft's slip yoke machining off a portion around the circumfrence of the outter tube that would mate with a recessed machined portion of the flange
*(not just sitting it flush ontop of the flange & then hittin it with a welder ya know)
then of course leaving about 2-1/8" of the t-case output shaft after hacking the rest off, then drilling and tapping both to ensure a secure mount.

then yes adapting/retubing- a front cv-driveshaft for the "poor mans SYE" i guess that would make it an "ultra-poor mans SYE" ;)

thanks for the input.
 
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BrettM said:
use a D35 or D30 side-gear instead, they are the same 27 spline 1.17 diameter as the output shaft.

just copy this: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=38907

awesome idea!!
thanks for the input.

man if things really got tough i would like to see what some ppl on this site could come up w/!!
 
hey what if your old man so happens to be a skilled trades machinist for 25 years, and hed be able to machine a piece out of a solid hunk of alluminum, would that work??
 
XJawgi said:
hey what if your old man so happens to be a skilled trades machinist for 25 years, and hed be able to machine a piece out of a solid hunk of alluminum, would that work??

I dont know would it?. also why alum? if you gonna machine one Id go steel
 
XJawgi said:
hey what if your old man so happens to be a skilled trades machinist for 25 years, and hed be able to machine a piece out of a solid hunk of alluminum, would that work??
I would not use aluminum. the steel splines would strip the aluminum splines very easily. If he wanted to make it out of 4130... :cool:
 
the outside looks like aluminum thats why i said alluminum, he can make it out of whatever though. The only problem would be the splines, and not afro engineering it with " short section of the current rear driveshaft slip yoke." But it might work that way. Im gonna hit up my old man and see what he thinks. Its only 90 bucks from rubicon so im not sure if it would be worth it like stated before.

Off subject, my old man is gonna be making me a steering box brace and were gonna be making our own A. long arm assembly, or B. drop brackets... not sure yet..but i will be posting shit as we go along, so keep an eye out.
 
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